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Posted by TomYoung on May 2, 2009, 3:43 pm
Hi:
I've got a couple of questions here but need to describe the situation
a bit.
I've got some pretty severe termite and dry rot problems around a tub
area. The interior of the bathroom has been completely removed and
I'm looking at the studs on the exterior wall that forms the tub
area. In a couple of areas the sole plate is completely gone and the
studs are just hanging from the top plate.
The exterior wall is stucco and, based on what I've read on the
Internet, I should also be looking at sheathing that's been nailed to
the exterior studs to provide a base for the building paper, spacers
and wire mesh to which the stucco is applied. But I'm not.
What I'm seeing is the building paper and wire mesh and, in some
places where the building paper is gone, the "backside" of the
stucco. No sheathing. I assume this is some sort of alternate method
of applying stucco to an exterior wall. Is that the case?
I can slightly rock the studs that have no sole plate from side to
side but no more. I assume they're being held in place by the nails/
staples/whatever that were used to attach the building paper and wire
mesh to the studs.
What's the best way to remove these studs from the exterior wall
without damaging the stucco? If the studs were nailed to sheathing
I'd be tempted to simply pry them loose but that seems risky given the
situation.
TIA.
Tom Young
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Posted by Joe on May 2, 2009, 6:49 pm
show/hide quoted text
>snip<
> The exterior wall is stucco and, based on what I've read on the
> Internet, I should also be looking at sheathing that's been nailed to
> the exterior studs to provide a base for the building paper, spacers
> and wire mesh to which the stucco is applied. =A0But I'm not.
> What I'm seeing is the building paper and wire mesh and, in some
> places where the building paper is gone, the "backside" of the
> stucco. =A0No sheathing. =A0I assume this is some sort of alternate metho=
> of applying stucco to an exterior wall. =A0Is that the case?
>snip<
What you're looking at is an extreme example of code violating,
corner cutting, shoddy construction. Maybe I'm wrong, but it might be
best just to bulldoze the structure and build a decent house. Get an
opinion from your local city building inspector if you aren't afraid
of real bad news. Trying to salvage anything from your Pandora's box
could be a ghastly money waste. Try to find some professionals to
advise you before you get in too deep. Good luck.
Joe
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Posted by RicodJour on May 3, 2009, 12:12 pm
show/hide quoted text
> What you're looking at is =A0an extreme example of code violating,
> corner cutting, shoddy construction.
How can the code be violated before the code was enacted?
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Posted by David Nebenzahl on May 2, 2009, 8:39 pm
On 5/2/2009 12:43 PM TomYoung spake thus:
show/hide quoted text
> I've got some pretty severe termite and dry rot problems around a tub
> area. The interior of the bathroom has been completely removed and
> I'm looking at the studs on the exterior wall that forms the tub
> area. In a couple of areas the sole plate is completely gone and the
> studs are just hanging from the top plate.
>
> The exterior wall is stucco and, based on what I've read on the
> Internet, I should also be looking at sheathing that's been nailed to
> the exterior studs to provide a base for the building paper, spacers
> and wire mesh to which the stucco is applied. But I'm not.
>
> What I'm seeing is the building paper and wire mesh and, in some
> places where the building paper is gone, the "backside" of the
> stucco. No sheathing. I assume this is some sort of alternate method
> of applying stucco to an exterior wall. Is that the case?
Yes, you could call it an "alternate method"; certainly not a *good* method.
I've worked on houses where the exterior sheathing was not
continuous--1x boards nailed over the studs with spaces between them,
like the way roofs are sometimes done. This is obviously done to save
material, and is not the ideal way to do things. Is it possible that
there are sheathing boards under that building paper with spaces between
them?
show/hide quoted text
> What's the best way to remove these studs from the exterior wall
> without damaging the stucco? If the studs were nailed to sheathing
> I'd be tempted to simply pry them loose but that seems risky given the
> situation.
My guess is "no way". To fix the wall you're going to have to remove the
stucco, re-frame the wall, sheathe it properly, then re-stucco it.
--
Save the Planet
Kill Yourself
- motto of the Church of Euthanasia (http://www.churchofeuthanasia.org/)
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Posted by hat on May 2, 2009, 10:15 pm
show/hide quoted text
> Hi:
> I've got a couple of questions here but need to describe the situation
> a bit.
> I've got some pretty severe termite and dry rot problems around a tub
> area. =A0The interior of the bathroom has been completely removed and
> I'm looking at the studs on the exterior wall that forms the tub
> area. =A0In a couple of areas the sole plate is completely gone and the
> studs are just hanging from the top plate.
> The exterior wall is stucco and, based on what I've read on the
> Internet, I should also be looking at sheathing that's been nailed to
> the exterior studs to provide a base for the building paper, spacers
> and wire mesh to which the stucco is applied. =A0But I'm not.
> What I'm seeing is the building paper and wire mesh and, in some
> places where the building paper is gone, the "backside" of the
> stucco. =A0No sheathing. =A0I assume this is some sort of alternate metho=
> of applying stucco to an exterior wall. =A0Is that the case?
> I can slightly rock the studs that have no sole plate from side to
> side but no more. =A0I assume they're being held in place by the nails/
> staples/whatever that were used to attach the building paper and wire
> mesh to the studs.
> What's the best way to remove these studs from the exterior wall
> without damaging the stucco? =A0If the studs were nailed to sheathing
> I'd be tempted to simply pry them loose but that seems risky given the
> situation.
> TIA.
> Tom Young
--------------------------
I had similar termite problems both in the garage and in the kitchen
(I discovered them right after I bought the house -- inspection was a
fraud!). I fixed them (myself) by first removing the sheetrock and
then removing the infected potions of the studs as high as needed. I
used a skillsaw (be very careful) using a cutting depth slightly less
than the width of the stud to avoid nicking the blade. I ran the saw
at top of the infected portion of the stud and again about a fot
lower. I then used a hammer to gently dislodge that piece of the
stud. Once done, the lower part can be yanked out (be gentle) from
the baseboard. Next I removed the baseboard and started the reframing
starting with a new baseboard. You will need to sister the full studs
on both sides of the infected area, put a cross 2x4 to support what
remains of the infected studs (much like you frame a door opening).
Finally, you need to put short studs in the "door" opening to support
the cross 2X4 (you get the idea by now).
I must say that in both jobs, I did not find it necessary to remove or
damage any of the stucco.
By the way, I used treated pine for replacement, and I further treated
then with some termite-fighting chemical whaich can be bought from
specialty stores.
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> The exterior wall is stucco and, based on what I've read on the
> Internet, I should also be looking at sheathing that's been nailed to
> the exterior studs to provide a base for the building paper, spacers
> and wire mesh to which the stucco is applied. =A0But I'm not.
> What I'm seeing is the building paper and wire mesh and, in some
> places where the building paper is gone, the "backside" of the
> stucco. =A0No sheathing. =A0I assume this is some sort of alternate metho=
> of applying stucco to an exterior wall. =A0Is that the case?
>snip<