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Repairing a Hydronic floor heating system

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Repairing a Hydronic floor heating system nutz384 02-02-2007
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Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on February 3, 2007, 10:11 am



>
> This is by far the best answer - just lay a new floor over the top of
> your hydronic slab. It will be more energy efficient and with the new
> tubing will last 100 years, not 50.
>

How thick should the new floor be? I can't imagine the changes needed to add
a 2" or 4" floor. All the doors, entrances, kitchen cabinets and plumbing
changes to be made. If there is a step at the entry doors, it may no longer
meet code. Ceilings will be "lower" now; windows will be "lower" now. What
do you do for closet doors? How about al the trim?

Do you really think this is a sensible method?

Installing baseboard heat requires none of the other changes needed here,
aside from some baseboard trim removal.




Real Goods Solar, Inc.
Posted by RBM on February 3, 2007, 3:19 pm


You can do it with about 1.5 inches of gypcrete



>
>>
>> This is by far the best answer - just lay a new floor over the top of
>> your hydronic slab. It will be more energy efficient and with the new
>> tubing will last 100 years, not 50.
>>
>
> How thick should the new floor be? I can't imagine the changes needed to
> add a 2" or 4" floor. All the doors, entrances, kitchen cabinets and
> plumbing changes to be made. If there is a step at the entry doors, it
> may no longer meet code. Ceilings will be "lower" now; windows will be
> "lower" now. What do you do for closet doors? How about al the trim?
>
> Do you really think this is a sensible method?
>
> Installing baseboard heat requires none of the other changes needed here,
> aside from some baseboard trim removal.
>
>
>



Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on February 3, 2007, 3:27 pm



> You can do it with about 1.5 inches of gypcrete
>
>
Same amount of changes, just a little shorter trimming. Not the way I'd go.






Posted by Speedy Jim on February 3, 2007, 4:05 pm


Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

>
>>You can do it with about 1.5 inches of gypcrete
>>
>>
>
> Same amount of changes, just a little shorter trimming. Not the way I'd go.
>

Yeah, but the OP was absolutely adamant that he
wasn't giving up in-floor radiant...
He'll have to weigh the pros and cons (if the Stop Leak
doesn't work :-)
Jim

Posted by Doug Miller on February 2, 2007, 9:23 pm


>
> Inject a product like "Stop Leak" into the system?

NO!!!
>
> A corrosion-inhibitor mixed with the boiler water *might*
>help, but only if the corrosion is from within and not
>on the outside. (I'm not a corrosion engineer.)

Be very, very careful. Automotive coolant should never be used in a hydronic
system.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

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