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Repairing a rusted swamp cooler

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Repairing a rusted swamp cooler Big Al 06-22-2006
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Posted by Big Al on June 22, 2006, 10:18 pm
I have an 8,500 CFM side draft swamp cooler that is rusting out. The bottom
pan has a few rust holes through the sides under the pad frames. I'm going
to try to get a few more years out of it. Any suggestions on what to do with
the pan?

Al



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Posted by buffalobill on June 23, 2006, 12:02 am
i actually don't know anything about this item, they are not generally
used in apartments buffalo ny, but: these thoughts: depending on your
climate and construction of course:
set up a drip collector pan with a drain outside the unit in the event
of a leak to avoid future water damage. like a hot water heater plastic
pan or washing machine plastic pan. find a plastic window box or
planter for inside it? inside it maybe spray some convert spray that is
used on rust, read all of its requirements for use, to give you a
starting place. if the metal pan is removable maybe a sheet metal shop
or auto body shop can patch it or replate it.
can the new self adhesive roofing membrane be used inside the pan
somehow? [i need to lern more about that too!] -bill

Big Al wrote:
> I have an 8,500 CFM side draft swamp cooler that is rusting out. The bottom
> pan has a few rust holes through the sides under the pad frames. I'm going
> to try to get a few more years out of it. Any suggestions on what to do with
> the pan?
>
> Al


Posted by Steve B on June 23, 2006, 3:25 am

>I have an 8,500 CFM side draft swamp cooler that is rusting out. The bottom
> pan has a few rust holes through the sides under the pad frames. I'm going
> to try to get a few more years out of it. Any suggestions on what to do
> with
> the pan?

At least put an anode in there to help slow it down. They are available for
around seven bucks from any cooler supplier.

Steve
>
> Al
>
>



Posted by on June 23, 2006, 3:48 pm
The cooler on my mother's house in AZ had the same problem. I advised
her to have her handyman dry it, wire brush/scotchbright it to remove
loose rust and paint, spray it with rust converter to inhibit further
rusting, and then line the entire inside of the pan with fiberglass
mat soaked in resin. There were some smaller rust spots on one of the
panels, and he used the same approach but with spot putty. After he
did all that he repainted it.


>I have an 8,500 CFM side draft swamp cooler that is rusting out. The bottom
>pan has a few rust holes through the sides under the pad frames. I'm going
>to try to get a few more years out of it. Any suggestions on what to do with
>the pan?
>
>Al
>


'Hell' is a relative term

--
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Posted by Big Al on June 25, 2006, 7:49 pm

> The cooler on my mother's house in AZ had the same problem. I advised
> her to have her handyman dry it, wire brush/scotchbright it to remove
> loose rust and paint, spray it with rust converter to inhibit further
> rusting, and then line the entire inside of the pan with fiberglass
> mat soaked in resin. There were some smaller rust spots on one of the
> panels, and he used the same approach but with spot putty. After he
> did all that he repainted it.
>

I did the fiberglass repair to a cooler about 10 years ago. Water from the
pad frames got under the fiberglass and made the problem worse. The lower
edge of the pad frames fit on the upper lip of the pan. If I try to bring
the mat up to the edge the frames will not fit. If I leave the mat 1/4 inch
under the lip of the pan water gets under it. I'm going to try the rust
converter, if I can find it. Home Depot, Lowe's and Ace all have it but only
in aerosol cans. Would be a lot better if I could brush it on. Then I may
try some kind of roof coating with membrane. Or ??? That stuff they sell to
coat coolers, think it's called "Submarine Coat" is a disappointment too.

Thanks for the replies,

Al



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