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Replace sliding doors with bi-fold

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Replace sliding doors with bi-fold Pat Coghlan 04-14-2007
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Posted by dadiOH on April 15, 2007, 10:46 am


Pat Coghlan wrote:
> Interesting. Never saw that done before. Must be tricky to get
> perfectly aligned. It's hard enough keeping just one set of bifolds
> aligned.

No, it isn't hard. Each bifold door section has pivot points at the
top and bottom edges near the outside vertical edge. The doors have
metal studs that fit into holes in carriers in the top track and on
the floor. The carriers are moveable laterally. That means you can
move the door sections a bit horizontally and you can tip them off
vertical if needed.

To line them up, start with one section nearest a wall and align it
vertically, leaving enough space next to the wall so it can open.
Then set the next section in place, aligning it to the first and
leaving enough space between the two so it can open. Repeat with all
other sections.

You may have to increase the space between sections to avoid a large
gap between the last section and the wall. If there is too little
space for the last section you either have to get the sections closer
together or cut off a little. Once all are to your liking, you lock
the moveable carriers in place with the integral bolts. There will
always be a space between the outboard doors and the walls as they
must rotate to open...that space can be covered with a small board
attached to the wall.

The next job is to lock the doors into the carriers so they can't jump
out. That is done by screwing out the bottom stud of each door with a
small, thin, included wrench. You need to raise the doors so they
will be above any carpeting. While doing that, keep an eye on the
tops of the doors and align them horizontally.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico




Posted by Patrick Coghlan on April 16, 2007, 12:57 pm


Well, even with the one pair I have on the downstairs closet, the bottom
pivot always seems to jump over 1-2 notches, putting the doors out of
alignment.

I'd rather T-frame the opening and install 2 sets of bifolds, but I'm
just not sure whether it's okay to nail 2x4s right onto the existing
drywall on the sides and celing. Would this be secure enough?

dadiOH wrote:
> Pat Coghlan wrote:
>> Interesting. Never saw that done before. Must be tricky to get
>> perfectly aligned. It's hard enough keeping just one set of bifolds
>> aligned.
>
> No, it isn't hard. Each bifold door section has pivot points at the
> top and bottom edges near the outside vertical edge. The doors have
> metal studs that fit into holes in carriers in the top track and on
> the floor. The carriers are moveable laterally. That means you can
> move the door sections a bit horizontally and you can tip them off
> vertical if needed.
>
> To line them up, start with one section nearest a wall and align it
> vertically, leaving enough space next to the wall so it can open.
> Then set the next section in place, aligning it to the first and
> leaving enough space between the two so it can open. Repeat with all
> other sections.
>
> You may have to increase the space between sections to avoid a large
> gap between the last section and the wall. If there is too little
> space for the last section you either have to get the sections closer
> together or cut off a little. Once all are to your liking, you lock
> the moveable carriers in place with the integral bolts. There will
> always be a space between the outboard doors and the walls as they
> must rotate to open...that space can be covered with a small board
> attached to the wall.
>
> The next job is to lock the doors into the carriers so they can't jump
> out. That is done by screwing out the bottom stud of each door with a
> small, thin, included wrench. You need to raise the doors so they
> will be above any carpeting. While doing that, keep an eye on the
> tops of the doors and align them horizontally.
>

Posted by dadiOH on April 16, 2007, 1:54 pm


Patrick Coghlan wrote:
> Well, even with the one pair I have on the downstairs closet, the
> bottom pivot always seems to jump over 1-2 notches, putting the
> doors out of alignment.

Then you need to tighten the bottom carrier so it can't move.
____________________

> I'd rather T-frame the opening and install 2 sets of bifolds, but
> I'm just not sure whether it's okay to nail 2x4s right onto the
> existing drywall on the sides and celing. Would this be secure
> enough?

No. Not unless there is wood behind the drywall. If not, you'd have
to use molly bolts. Or toggle bolts. Or similar.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico




Posted by Pat Coghlan on April 16, 2007, 7:31 pm


dadiOH wrote:
> Patrick Coghlan wrote:
>
>> Well, even with the one pair I have on the downstairs closet, the
>> bottom pivot always seems to jump over 1-2 notches, putting the
>> doors out of alignment.
>>
>
> Then you need to tighten the bottom carrier so it can't move.
>
These are the Stanley-style pivots (post sitting in a grooved slot).
They just lift out with the door.
> ____________________
>
>
>> I'd rather T-frame the opening and install 2 sets of bifolds, but
>> I'm just not sure whether it's okay to nail 2x4s right onto the
>> existing drywall on the sides and celing. Would this be secure
>> enough?
>>
>
> No. Not unless there is wood behind the drywall. If not, you'd have
> to use molly bolts. Or toggle bolts. Or similar.
>
There is wood behind the dryway. Okay to just nail/screw through the
drywall?

Posted by dadiOH on April 17, 2007, 1:39 pm


Pat Coghlan wrote:

>>> I'd rather T-frame the opening and install 2 sets of bifolds, but
>>> I'm just not sure whether it's okay to nail 2x4s right onto the
>>> existing drywall on the sides and celing. Would this be secure
>>> enough?
>>>
>>
>> No. Not unless there is wood behind the drywall. If not, you'd
>> have to use molly bolts. Or toggle bolts. Or similar.
>>
> There is wood behind the dryway. Okay to just nail/screw through
> the drywall?

How else? Personally, I'd use screws.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico




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