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Replacing 1 15 amp Receptacle With 1 20 Receptacle ZZ 10-15-2006
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Posted by ZZ on October 15, 2006, 12:20 pm


Hi There,

I'm confused on if I can replace an 15 amp receptacle with a 20 amp
receptacle. I want to be able to hook up a espresso machine in my kitchen
and the machine requires a 20amp circuit.

The particular circuit I want to change out has a 20 amp breaker coming from
the box using a 14 gauge wire to, 1 15 amp GFI receptacle & 2 15 amp
receptacles in the kitchen.

Will I be able to switch out 1 of the 15 amp receptacles with a 20 amp
receptacle without causing a problem?

Thanks,
Dave



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Posted by Toller on October 15, 2006, 12:24 pm



> Hi There,
>
> I'm confused on if I can replace an 15 amp receptacle with a 20 amp
> receptacle. I want to be able to hook up a espresso machine in my kitchen
> and the machine requires a 20amp circuit.
>
> The particular circuit I want to change out has a 20 amp breaker coming
> from the box using a 14 gauge wire to, 1 15 amp GFI receptacle & 2 15 amp
> receptacles in the kitchen.
>
> Will I be able to switch out 1 of the 15 amp receptacles with a 20 amp
> receptacle without causing a problem?
>
If it is #14 wire you must have a 15a breaker and 15a outlets.
Are you sure it is #14? Kitchens have required #12 for a while now.



Posted by ZZ on October 15, 2006, 12:35 pm



> If it is #14 wire you must have a 15a breaker and 15a outlets.
> Are you sure it is #14? Kitchens have required #12 for a while now.

Yes, it is #14/2.

I do have a refrigerator that has a 20 amp receptacle in the kitchen with
12 gauge wire, but that's it. In my house, all the 12 gauge wire has a
yellow sheath & all the 14 gauge has a bone white sheath.

This is a brand new house (5 months old).



Posted by EXT on October 15, 2006, 1:29 pm


Don't trust the color of the sheath. Color coding of the sheath is a recent
feature. Older cable may have been used and it was all white or ivory for
virtually all gauges. Read the gauge number printed on the side of the cable
sheath to confirm the actual wire size used.


>
>> If it is #14 wire you must have a 15a breaker and 15a outlets.
>> Are you sure it is #14? Kitchens have required #12 for a while now.
>
> Yes, it is #14/2.
>
> I do have a refrigerator that has a 20 amp receptacle in the kitchen with
> 12 gauge wire, but that's it. In my house, all the 12 gauge wire has a
> yellow sheath & all the 14 gauge has a bone white sheath.
>
> This is a brand new house (5 months old).
>



Posted by Tom Horne, Electrician on October 15, 2006, 6:38 pm


ZZ wrote:
>> If it is #14 wire you must have a 15a breaker and 15a outlets.
>> Are you sure it is #14? Kitchens have required #12 for a while now.
>
> Yes, it is #14/2.
>
> I do have a refrigerator that has a 20 amp receptacle in the kitchen with
> 12 gauge wire, but that's it. In my house, all the 12 gauge wire has a
> yellow sheath & all the 14 gauge has a bone white sheath.
>
> This is a brand new house (5 months old).
>
>

The color coding of nonmetallic cable jackets is a relatively recent
development. The cable is labeled every two feet along it's entire
length to show it's gage and construction. Check the cable's labeling
to determine the actual gage of the conductors. If it really is size
fourteen American wire gage then you need to change the breaker to
fifteen amperes or run new cable. Since were talking about a kitchen
counter receptacle circuit it should be twelve gage wire.
--
Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison

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