Replacing a hot water heater. Efficiency?

Sorry about that. Forgot that Oregon had a
Douglas County.

I see that Douglas County PUD (your electric
provider) signed a recent agreement to provide
electricity for an industrial contract at 1.8
cents per kWh. Industrial power usually sells at
way below residential rates.

Posted by George E. Cawthon on October 23, 2006, 8:08 pm

Al Bundy wrote:

> @newsfe03.lga:

>> Jay Pique wrote:

>>> I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any

>>> recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement,

>>> with a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on

>>> retrofit recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and

>>> would like to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to

>>> pay for an efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over

>>> say 5 years. Thanks.

>> Gas or electric? Size of the family? Here in Douglas County, WA., where

>> electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour, I would do a straight

>> replacement in my household with the most efficient 60 gallon electric

>> heater I could find.

>> electric power is about 1.2 cents per KW hour,

> Huh?! Is that 1.2 or .12 ???

Huh? Nobody gets electric power for 0.12 cents
per kWh, nobody. I don't think anybody in WA gets
domestic electric power for 1.2 cents per kWh.
There may be some applications, e.g., irrigation
pumping, that get a rate that low, but it would be
by oversight. Any rate that is less that 4 cents
per kWh is considered very very low.

Posted by Lee on October 22, 2006, 6:25 pm

I suppose there is always a first......a wooden hot water heater. Wonder
what type of wood?? IPE?? Problem wood (pun) be is the heat and the water. I
think 20-30 coats of poly might work. Stain??
Gas would not be my first choice.

> Hello,

> I need to replace a hot water heater whose tank has cracked. Any

> recommendations? I'm leaning towards just a straight replacement, with

> a good energy rating. However, I've seen some articles on retrofit

> recirculating systems, as well as "on-demand" hot water, and would like

> to hear if anyone has any strong opinions. I'm willing to pay for an

> efficient system provided it breaks even cost-wise over say 5 years.

> Thanks.

> JP

Posted by Eric in North TX on October 22, 2006, 6:29 pm

I was, money in hand, ready to go tank-less, but am thinking better of
it. I think the savings projected depend on an ideal situation. I lack
that. If you have a situation where the runs to the taps or appliances
that use the hot water are short, it might be a savings. If you are
gone and the house is empty more than occupied, you might see some
savings. The consensus here seems to be that it would be worn out
before the pay off ever came and in the meantime you would have a noisy
expensive unit that few people know how to repair, and no reserve hot
water during a power outage.
My plan now is to put in recirculation loops on the units I have and
get instant hot water at the taps. That plan might use a tad more
energy to heat the water, but should eliminate a lot of wasted water,
which in my case has to be pumped.

Posted by Bob F on October 22, 2006, 8:20 pm

> I was, money in hand, ready to go tank-less, but am thinking better of

> it. I think the savings projected depend on an ideal situation. I lack

> that. If you have a situation where the runs to the taps or appliances

> that use the hot water are short, it might be a savings. If you are

> gone and the house is empty more than occupied, you might see some

> savings. The consensus here seems to be that it would be worn out

> before the pay off ever came and in the meantime you would have a noisy

> expensive unit that few people know how to repair, and no reserve hot

> water during a power outage.

> My plan now is to put in recirculation loops on the units I have and

> get instant hot water at the taps. That plan might use a tad more

> energy to heat the water, but should eliminate a lot of wasted water,

> which in my case has to be pumped.

My plan when I put in the recirculation pump is to have a push button
near each water faucet. Push the button, the pump turns on for long enough
to get the hot water to all faucets on the loop. This will have no
additional
loss when no water is being used.

Bob

Page 3 of 9 < 1 2 3 > last >>

Similar Threads	Posted
What affects water heater efficiency?	February 7, 2005, 7:08 pm
Water Heater Efficiency - combustion	November 23, 2005, 8:50 am
High Efficiency water heater-- Need a chimney?	January 22, 2006, 9:40 pm
High efficiency boiler, indirect water heater, Tekmar control	May 30, 2007, 9:28 pm
Replacing a water heater (electric)	March 17, 2006, 8:09 am
Replacing a Working Water Heater	November 7, 2006, 5:05 pm
Replacing water heater anodes	November 15, 2006, 10:26 pm
Adding a water heater and not replacing the oil fired boiler	February 9, 2006, 10:38 pm
40 gal just not enough: Replacing water heater for 2400 sq home. Family of 2 adults + 2 children	April 7, 2008, 1:24 pm
When replacing a water heater,do you have to put a washer/gasket above the iron nipples coming out the top of the tank?	February 12, 2006, 2:57 am

XML Sitemap