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Posted by Evan Dickson on December 10, 2007, 8:08 pm
BETA-32 wrote:
> I have a similar situation (long story).
>
> First, I agree with the suggestion to just use a drill to drill pilot holes
> and find the studs that way -- must less mess and easy to do.
>
> A contractor just looked at my house and said there are basically 2 options.
>
> The first is to rip out all of the plaster and lath down to the studs, then
> put up new sheetrock and trim.
>
> The second is to apply new sheetrock right over the old plaster walls. He
> said sheetrock that is as thin a 1/4-inch thick is available so not much
> thickness will be added, so the existing trim will still look okay, etc. (I
> thought the thinnest sheetrock available was 3/8-inch, but he said they make
> 1/4-inch sheetrock.
>
>
>> Evan Dickson wrote:
>>
>>> I have a room that was formerly two rooms. The house is 70-90 years old.
>>> The walls are plaster. Between the damage from knocking out the wall,
>>> and the 7 different plaster textures that exist in the now single room, I
>>> figure it would be easier to put up strapping and mount wallboard over
>>> the plaster than to repair and skim all the plaster. I've discovered stud
>>> sensors don't work through plaster and lath. My idea is to cut a groove,
>>> maybe 1" high, circling the room near the bottom of the walls and another
>>> near the tops, so I can look and know exactly where the studs are. Would
>>> this cause any structural problems to the existing plaster? I would hate
>>> to have stuff collapsing under my wallboard.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any advice provided!
>> If you have baseboards, you might be able to figure the stud spacing from
>> where the baseboards are nailed to the wall. Studs aren't necessarilly
>> regularly spaced, but could be. I would drill small holes, rather than
>> cut a "groove" ... if the bit comes out with wood, you've hit a stud. Do
>> that every 1/2" or so until you hit studs.
>
>
Long stories are good. Which option did you go with, and were you happy
with the results?
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