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Posted by fftt on October 7, 2009, 1:13 pm
> > I'm in Berkeley, CA. The winters are mild, no snow, but there are night=
s
> > when there's ice on outside surfaces in the morning.
> > The garage roof (typical) is totally wasted. For the last several years
> > I've been keeping water out of the single car garage (manual door, I
> > don't keep a car in it, use it for storage) by putting on a fresh tarp
> > (19' x 29') yearly. Of course, this entails buying a ~$50 tarp every
> > year and taking 1/2 a day to replace last year's tarp. I tie down the
> > corners and hang bricks every 8 feet or so from the grommets, to secure
> > the tarp from the ravages of the winds. One wall of the garage needs a
> > total rebuild, and I may try to do that myself, maybe hire somebody,
> > maybe work with them.
> > When I had the house reroofed with 50 year asphalt shingles (total
> > tearoff) around 3-4 years ago I didn't think to ask the roofing company
> > how much they'd charge to replace the roof on my garage. Even then, I
> > had it in mind that I could maybe install metal roofing on it myself.
> > I'd never think of doing a tar job myself, but metal I figure "why not?=
"
> > The roof is flat (about 10' x 24') but I think there's a slight slope t=
o
> > it, being 1/4 inch height for every 2 feet of run (I'm going to measure
> > the slope more carefully using a line level). On the low side right now
> > is a rusted out old gutter, which I figure I could replace myself after
> > installing the metal panels. The rafters are every 2 feet, 2x6's, and
> > look to be in good shape. But the plywood (there's some 1x6 boards too!=
)
> > is basically trashed, so I'd have to replace that stuff, or maybe not i=
f
> > I nail on nailing strips for metal roofing, no big deal either way. I
> > have basic tools like a circle saw, saw horses, ladders, etc. and a
> > concrete courtyard to work in.
> > 1. Is it feasible for me to do this myself, and
> > 2. How much would the materials cost?
> > Dan
> > Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net
> Dan-
> I have a patio cover =A010 x 22' (solid sheathed) that I replaced a
> couple years. =A0It was originally (1930) =A0sheathed with 6" T&G &
> covered with wood shingles. =A0The pitch was less than 1:12 and of
> course never really "worked" =A0but "hey, how much rain does SoCal
> get?"
> I increased the pitch to 1:12 =A0(~4.7 / 5 deg) and used roll roofing,
> no leaks.
> At a pitch of 1/4" per 2 feet, your garage is even less than the code
> minimum of 1/4" per foot for a "flat roof". =A0That's why the plywood is
> trashed.
> I assume the garage (shed style) pitches across the 10' direction?
> At a bare minimum you need 2.5" preferably more.
> But, if framing is sound & solid and you use some decent thickness
> plywood or osb you can go minimal with the pitch (ponding will not be
> a problem).
> I would like more like 1/2" or 1" =A0per foot but that would require
> some framing changes (maybe just custom sleepers) and more than a bit
> of new timber, unless oyu can easily "raise the roof" .....well at
> least on one edge. =A0 Plus depending on how the garage is finished on
> the exterior; stucco, siding, ?? =A0 =A0 modifying the roof pitch will
> complicate things
> wrt cost;
> material prices are down but if you're considering doing this project
> yourself. =A0To execute it successfully, you should have the minimal
> skills needed to develop a design, do a material take off and get some
> pricing.
> Putting a new roof over plywood that is "basically trashed" (imo)
> would be a waste of your time & the material.
> Even with decent thickness plywood its only a couple $100's for
> material.
> Since oyu live in the PR of Berkeley is this going to be a permit job
> or bootleg?
> I'm surprised you haven't connected with Wayne...he lives in Berkeley
> & has done a LOT on his house and could offer good advice (sorry
> Wayne)
> :)
> cheers
> Bob
ps
Dan-
My younger son just moved from Berkeley to SF. I could have stopped
by for a look on my semi-frequent visits but now Berkeley is off my
radar. Also since the rainy season (we hope) is approaching...is this
not better done next year?
cheers
Bob
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Posted by Dan Musicant on October 7, 2009, 2:35 pm
wrote:
:ps
:
:Dan-
:
:My younger son just moved from Berkeley to SF. I could have stopped
:by for a look on my semi-frequent visits but now Berkeley is off my
:radar. Also since the rainy season (we hope) is approaching...is this
:not better done next year?
:
:cheers
:Bob
Yes, no question, I'm thinking next year at the soonest. I'm just
thinking that I'd like to do some research and hopefully planning now. I
started thinking about a metal roof on it back in 2000 or so, saved some
posts, but not done anything about it. Put a new tarp on a few days ago.
Dan
Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net
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Posted by Dan Musicant on October 7, 2009, 2:32 pm
wrote:
:> I'm in Berkeley, CA. The winters are mild, no snow, but there are nights
:> when there's ice on outside surfaces in the morning.
:>
:> The garage roof (typical) is totally wasted. For the last several years
:> I've been keeping water out of the single car garage (manual door, I
:> don't keep a car in it, use it for storage) by putting on a fresh tarp
:> (19' x 29') yearly. Of course, this entails buying a ~$50 tarp every
:> year and taking 1/2 a day to replace last year's tarp. I tie down the
:> corners and hang bricks every 8 feet or so from the grommets, to secure
:> the tarp from the ravages of the winds. One wall of the garage needs a
:> total rebuild, and I may try to do that myself, maybe hire somebody,
:> maybe work with them.
:>
:> When I had the house reroofed with 50 year asphalt shingles (total
:> tearoff) around 3-4 years ago I didn't think to ask the roofing company
:> how much they'd charge to replace the roof on my garage. Even then, I
:> had it in mind that I could maybe install metal roofing on it myself.
:> I'd never think of doing a tar job myself, but metal I figure "why not?"
:>
:> The roof is flat (about 10' x 24') but I think there's a slight slope to
:> it, being 1/4 inch height for every 2 feet of run (I'm going to measure
:> the slope more carefully using a line level). On the low side right now
:> is a rusted out old gutter, which I figure I could replace myself after
:> installing the metal panels. The rafters are every 2 feet, 2x6's, and
:> look to be in good shape. But the plywood (there's some 1x6 boards too!)
:> is basically trashed, so I'd have to replace that stuff, or maybe not if
:> I nail on nailing strips for metal roofing, no big deal either way. I
:> have basic tools like a circle saw, saw horses, ladders, etc. and a
:> concrete courtyard to work in.
:>
:> 1. Is it feasible for me to do this myself, and
:>
:> 2. How much would the materials cost?
:>
:> Dan
:>
:> Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net
:
:Dan-
:
:I have a patio cover 10 x 22' (solid sheathed) that I replaced a
:couple years. It was originally (1930) sheathed with 6" T&G &
:covered with wood shingles. The pitch was less than 1:12 and of
:course never really "worked" but "hey, how much rain does SoCal
:get?"
Yeah, I grew up in L.A. and I have relatives from Santa Barbara all the
way down to where you can see Mexico from the porch (La Mesa)! Not a lot
of rain. But when I lived in West L.A. I remember that just about every
year there was one day when it rained steadily all day.
:
:I increased the pitch to 1:12 (~4.7 / 5 deg) and used roll roofing,
:no leaks.
:
:At a pitch of 1/4" per 2 feet, your garage is even less than the code
:minimum of 1/4" per foot for a "flat roof". That's why the plywood is
:trashed.
Yeah, there's much about the property that's not code. It's no surprise
to me, but I didn't know that code is minimal 1/4" per foot.
:
:I assume the garage (shed style) pitches across the 10' direction?
Yes.
:At a bare minimum you need 2.5" preferably more.
Yep, that would be code.
:But, if framing is sound & solid and you use some decent thickness
:plywood or osb you can go minimal with the pitch (ponding will not be
:a problem).
:
:I would like more like 1/2" or 1" per foot but that would require
:some framing changes (maybe just custom sleepers) and more than a bit
:of new timber, unless oyu can easily "raise the roof" .....well at
:least on one edge. Plus depending on how the garage is finished on
:the exterior; stucco, siding, ?? modifying the roof pitch will
:complicate things
Back and the high side are cinder blocks, period, and they seem solid
and the mortar seems great AFAIK. The bad wall is wood, has two windows
(mostly broken out), and the wood's totally delapidated. Someone slapped
all kinds of stuff on that wall including plywood, a couple of old doors
behind a large broken out window, the works! That one side is really
shabby. In fact, when I bought the house I didn't have a key to the
garage and I got into it initially by going through a hole in the bad
wall! It allows for ventilation on the occasions when he tarp has leaked
into the garage. It also lets in animals such as cats, squirrels and who
knows what!
I think the worst problem with the garage right now is the concrete
floor. It's been messed with evidently by a close-by large plum tree.
However, it doesn't seem to be presenting an immediate problem. A slab
near the door (I totally renovated that door with new springs, plywood,
paint and lock) is raised around 3 inches, I think!
:
:wrt cost;
:
:material prices are down but if you're considering doing this project
:yourself. To execute it successfully, you should have the minimal
:skills needed to develop a design, do a material take off and get some
:pricing.
:
:Putting a new roof over plywood that is "basically trashed" (imo)
:would be a waste of your time & the material.
:Even with decent thickness plywood its only a couple $100's for
:material.
:
:Since oyu live in the PR of Berkeley is this going to be a permit job
:or bootleg?
Don't know about that. Berkeley is kind of a bitch for permitting
although I could maybe slog through it.
:
:I'm surprised you haven't connected with Wayne...he lives in Berkeley
:& has done a LOT on his house and could offer good advice (sorry
:Wayne)
::)
Wayne and I are friendly, have visited each other's house several times,
although I haven't seen him in quite a while. He helped me when I was
having the house reroofed. I met him here. He's very astute and
grounded, knows a lot about a lot of things, is very good at researching
his projects and planning them. Does very good work.
Dan
:cheers
:Bob
:
:
Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net
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Posted by on October 7, 2009, 7:15 pm
wrote:
>I'm in Berkeley, CA. The winters are mild, no snow, but there are nights
>when there's ice on outside surfaces in the morning.
>The garage roof (typical) is totally wasted. For the last several years
>I've been keeping water out of the single car garage (manual door, I
>don't keep a car in it, use it for storage) by putting on a fresh tarp
>(19' x 29') yearly. Of course, this entails buying a ~$50 tarp every
>year and taking 1/2 a day to replace last year's tarp. I tie down the
>corners and hang bricks every 8 feet or so from the grommets, to secure
>the tarp from the ravages of the winds. One wall of the garage needs a
>total rebuild, and I may try to do that myself, maybe hire somebody,
>maybe work with them.
>When I had the house reroofed with 50 year asphalt shingles (total
>tearoff) around 3-4 years ago I didn't think to ask the roofing company
>how much they'd charge to replace the roof on my garage. Even then, I
>had it in mind that I could maybe install metal roofing on it myself.
>I'd never think of doing a tar job myself, but metal I figure "why not?"
>The roof is flat (about 10' x 24') but I think there's a slight slope to
>it, being 1/4 inch height for every 2 feet of run (I'm going to measure
>the slope more carefully using a line level). On the low side right now
>is a rusted out old gutter, which I figure I could replace myself after
>installing the metal panels. The rafters are every 2 feet, 2x6's, and
>look to be in good shape. But the plywood (there's some 1x6 boards too!)
>is basically trashed, so I'd have to replace that stuff, or maybe not if
>I nail on nailing strips for metal roofing, no big deal either way. I
>have basic tools like a circle saw, saw horses, ladders, etc. and a
>concrete courtyard to work in.
>1. Is it feasible for me to do this myself, and
>2. How much would the materials cost?
>Dan
Put up a gable or shed roof and shingle it.
Cheaper than ANY flat roof alternative averaged over 5 years - much
less 15.
A 10 foot wide roof is SIMPLE to make "trusses" for - use 12 foot 2X4
to give 1 foot overhang on each side or 14 ft to get 2 foot overhang
and use standard 2X4 studs for rafters - about $2 each - spaced at 12
inch on centers would be more than adequate with an 8/12 pitch just
about anywhere.. Thats About $100 for rafters and likey $75 for the
cross stringers. Add 1X6 facsia boards and the sheathing of your
choice , plus roofing felt and shingles. Likely about $700 to do the
job. - Or frame as above , put 1X4 stringers across and nail down
formed steel sheet roofing.
You need to close in the gables with something - but definitely
cheaper and more durable than ANY flat roof.
>Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net
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Posted by Dan Musicant on October 8, 2009, 3:53 pm
On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 19:15:47 -0400, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
:wrote:
:
:>I'm in Berkeley, CA. The winters are mild, no snow, but there are nights
:>when there's ice on outside surfaces in the morning.
:>
:>The garage roof (typical) is totally wasted. For the last several years
:>I've been keeping water out of the single car garage (manual door, I
:>don't keep a car in it, use it for storage) by putting on a fresh tarp
:>(19' x 29') yearly. Of course, this entails buying a ~$50 tarp every
:>year and taking 1/2 a day to replace last year's tarp. I tie down the
:>corners and hang bricks every 8 feet or so from the grommets, to secure
:>the tarp from the ravages of the winds. One wall of the garage needs a
:>total rebuild, and I may try to do that myself, maybe hire somebody,
:>maybe work with them.
:>
:>When I had the house reroofed with 50 year asphalt shingles (total
:>tearoff) around 3-4 years ago I didn't think to ask the roofing company
:>how much they'd charge to replace the roof on my garage. Even then, I
:>had it in mind that I could maybe install metal roofing on it myself.
:>I'd never think of doing a tar job myself, but metal I figure "why not?"
:>
:>The roof is flat (about 10' x 24') but I think there's a slight slope to
:>it, being 1/4 inch height for every 2 feet of run (I'm going to measure
:>the slope more carefully using a line level). On the low side right now
:>is a rusted out old gutter, which I figure I could replace myself after
:>installing the metal panels. The rafters are every 2 feet, 2x6's, and
:>look to be in good shape. But the plywood (there's some 1x6 boards too!)
:>is basically trashed, so I'd have to replace that stuff, or maybe not if
:>I nail on nailing strips for metal roofing, no big deal either way. I
:>have basic tools like a circle saw, saw horses, ladders, etc. and a
:>concrete courtyard to work in.
:>
:>1. Is it feasible for me to do this myself, and
:>
:>2. How much would the materials cost?
:>
:>Dan
:>
:
:Put up a gable or shed roof and shingle it.
:Cheaper than ANY flat roof alternative averaged over 5 years - much
:less 15.
:
:A 10 foot wide roof is SIMPLE to make "trusses" for - use 12 foot 2X4
:to give 1 foot overhang on each side or 14 ft to get 2 foot overhang
:and use standard 2X4 studs for rafters - about $2 each - spaced at 12
:inch on centers would be more than adequate with an 8/12 pitch just
:about anywhere.. Thats About $100 for rafters and likey $75 for the
:cross stringers. Add 1X6 facsia boards and the sheathing of your
:choice , plus roofing felt and shingles. Likely about $700 to do the
:job. - Or frame as above , put 1X4 stringers across and nail down
:formed steel sheet roofing.
:You need to close in the gables with something - but definitely
:cheaper and more durable than ANY flat roof.
Ah, I'm having a little trouble visualizing this, but if I bring your
description to a lumberyard I bet someone there could make a drawing for
me pretty easily. I think I mostly know what you're describing but I
want to make sure.
I've thought about building a gabled roof for it ever since they
reroofed my house. I realized then that a gabled roof isn't very
complicated and would last much longer than a retarred flat roof on the
garage. Your description is great. By 1x6 fascia boards, you mean 1x6s
that would stretch across the rafters and be right under the sheathing,
which would probably be something like 1/2" plywood or OSB. The fascia
boards would give strength.
I like the metal idea if it isn't too expensive. I could handle the
asphalt tiles, but that's more complicated.
Dan
Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net
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