Reroof flat roofed one car garage -- Metal?

Posted by on October 8, 2009, 5:15 pm

wrote:

>On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 19:15:47 -0400, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>:wrote:
>:

>:>I'm in Berkeley, CA. The winters are mild, no snow, but there are nights
>:>when there's ice on outside surfaces in the morning.
>:>The garage roof (typical) is totally wasted. For the last several years
>:>I've been keeping water out of the single car garage (manual door, I
>:>don't keep a car in it, use it for storage) by putting on a fresh tarp
>:>(19' x 29') yearly. Of course, this entails buying a ~$50 tarp every
>:>year and taking 1/2 a day to replace last year's tarp. I tie down the
>:>corners and hang bricks every 8 feet or so from the grommets, to secure
>:>the tarp from the ravages of the winds. One wall of the garage needs a
>:>total rebuild, and I may try to do that myself, maybe hire somebody,
>:>maybe work with them.
>:>When I had the house reroofed with 50 year asphalt shingles (total
>:>tearoff) around 3-4 years ago I didn't think to ask the roofing company
>:>how much they'd charge to replace the roof on my garage. Even then, I
>:>had it in mind that I could maybe install metal roofing on it myself.
>:>I'd never think of doing a tar job myself, but metal I figure "why not?"
>:>The roof is flat (about 10' x 24') but I think there's a slight slope to
>:>it, being 1/4 inch height for every 2 feet of run (I'm going to measure
>:>the slope more carefully using a line level). On the low side right now
>:>is a rusted out old gutter, which I figure I could replace myself after
>:>installing the metal panels. The rafters are every 2 feet, 2x6's, and
>:>look to be in good shape. But the plywood (there's some 1x6 boards too!)
>:>is basically trashed, so I'd have to replace that stuff, or maybe not if
>:>I nail on nailing strips for metal roofing, no big deal either way. I
>:>have basic tools like a circle saw, saw horses, ladders, etc. and a
>:>concrete courtyard to work in.
>:>1. Is it feasible for me to do this myself, and
>:>2. How much would the materials cost?
>:>Dan

>:
>:Put up a gable or shed roof and shingle it.
>:Cheaper than ANY flat roof alternative averaged over 5 years - much
>:less 15.
>:
>:A 10 foot wide roof is SIMPLE to make "trusses" for - use 12 foot 2X4
>:to give 1 foot overhang on each side or 14 ft to get 2 foot overhang
>:and use standard 2X4 studs for rafters - about $2 each - spaced at 12
>:inch on centers would be more than adequate with an 8/12 pitch just
>:about anywhere.. Thats About $100 for rafters and likey $75 for the
>:cross stringers. Add 1X6 facsia boards and the sheathing of your
>:choice , plus roofing felt and shingles. Likely about $700 to do the
>:job. - Or frame as above , put 1X4 stringers across and nail down
>:formed steel sheet roofing.
>:You need to close in the gables with something - but definitely
>:cheaper and more durable than ANY flat roof.
>Ah, I'm having a little trouble visualizing this, but if I bring your
>description to a lumberyard I bet someone there could make a drawing for
>me pretty easily. I think I mostly know what you're describing but I
>want to make sure.
>I've thought about building a gabled roof for it ever since they
>reroofed my house. I realized then that a gabled roof isn't very
>complicated and would last much longer than a retarred flat roof on the
>garage. Your description is great. By 1x6 fascia boards, you mean 1x6s
>that would stretch across the rafters and be right under the sheathing,
>which would probably be something like 1/2" plywood or OSB. The fascia
>boards would give strength.

Correct

>I like the metal idea if it isn't too expensive. I could handle the
>asphalt tiles, but that's more complicated.
>Dan

Up here in Waterloo County Ontario, a sheet steel roof is
SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper than asphalt tile.
No sheathing required either.

I can have a guy up the road crank out sheets in any length I need -
30 feet is NOTHING. - in pretty much any standard colour, and in 3 or
4 different profiles. He gets the steel in flat coils and forms it
with a roller unit on the farm ("Old Order" Mennonite farm based
business - they build a lot of barns and driving sheds with it, as
well as roofing a lot of farm houses.)

>Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net

Posted by aemeijers on October 7, 2009, 7:41 pm

Dan Musicant wrote:

> I'm in Berkeley, CA. The winters are mild, no snow, but there are nights
> when there's ice on outside surfaces in the morning.
>
> The garage roof (typical) is totally wasted. For the last several years
> I've been keeping water out of the single car garage (manual door, I
> don't keep a car in it, use it for storage) by putting on a fresh tarp
> (19' x 29') yearly. Of course, this entails buying a ~$50 tarp every
> year and taking 1/2 a day to replace last year's tarp. I tie down the
> corners and hang bricks every 8 feet or so from the grommets, to secure
> the tarp from the ravages of the winds. One wall of the garage needs a
> total rebuild, and I may try to do that myself, maybe hire somebody,
> maybe work with them.
>
> When I had the house reroofed with 50 year asphalt shingles (total
> tearoff) around 3-4 years ago I didn't think to ask the roofing company
> how much they'd charge to replace the roof on my garage. Even then, I
> had it in mind that I could maybe install metal roofing on it myself.
> I'd never think of doing a tar job myself, but metal I figure "why not?"
>
> The roof is flat (about 10' x 24') but I think there's a slight slope to
> it, being 1/4 inch height for every 2 feet of run (I'm going to measure
> the slope more carefully using a line level). On the low side right now
> is a rusted out old gutter, which I figure I could replace myself after
> installing the metal panels. The rafters are every 2 feet, 2x6's, and
> look to be in good shape. But the plywood (there's some 1x6 boards too!)
> is basically trashed, so I'd have to replace that stuff, or maybe not if
> I nail on nailing strips for metal roofing, no big deal either way. I
> have basic tools like a circle saw, saw horses, ladders, etc. and a
> concrete courtyard to work in.
>
> 1. Is it feasible for me to do this myself, and
>
> 2. How much would the materials cost?
>
> Dan
>
>
> Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net

Some things you only want to do once. I'd demo all the existing rotten
wood, and build back with a new wall and properly pitched roof above, at
least 3-12. Maybe add some recycled windows on the high side, above the
block, to keep the place nice and bright inside.(Habitat ReStore around
here usually has a selection of dirt-cheap salvage windows that would be
perfect for that.) For a mild climate like that, I wouldn't even bother
with wood decking- 2x6 or 2x8 rafters every 24", some 2x4 purlins every
3-4 feet, and use corrugated sheet, or barn roofing. You can buy the
sheets exact length needed from most jobber, so no cutting in the field,
and it goes up super-quick. They even have preformed strips for the top
end so water won't get in. You could also use barn siding on the new
wall, to minimize the chances of rot. Use treated wood for the framing,
at least where it touches horizontal concrete. May be more than you
need, but it will also make the house easier to sell for you or your
heirs. Nobody wants to start out with a nasty shed or garage. An urban
chicken coop like I described above would be quite appealing to people
like me.

--
aem sends...

Posted by Dan Musicant on October 8, 2009, 4:00 pm

:Some things you only want to do once. I'd demo all the existing rotten
:wood, and build back with a new wall and properly pitched roof above, at
:least 3-12. Maybe add some recycled windows on the high side, above the
:block, to keep the place nice and bright inside.(Habitat ReStore around
:here usually has a selection of dirt-cheap salvage windows that would be
:perfect for that.) For a mild climate like that, I wouldn't even bother
:with wood decking- 2x6 or 2x8 rafters every 24", some 2x4 purlins every
:3-4 feet, and use corrugated sheet, or barn roofing. You can buy the
:sheets exact length needed from most jobber, so no cutting in the field,
:and it goes up super-quick. They even have preformed strips for the top
:end so water won't get in. You could also use barn siding on the new
:wall, to minimize the chances of rot. Use treated wood for the framing,
:at least where it touches horizontal concrete. May be more than you
:need, but it will also make the house easier to sell for you or your
:heirs. Nobody wants to start out with a nasty shed or garage. An urban
:chicken coop like I described above would be quite appealing to people
:like me.
:
:--
:aem sends...

Thanks for the great ideas! Treated wood, I wouldn't have thought of. I
do have some wood preservative but I guess it would be better to get
pressure treated wood.

Dan

Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net

Posted by on October 8, 2009, 5:17 pm

wrote:

>:Some things you only want to do once. I'd demo all the existing rotten
>:wood, and build back with a new wall and properly pitched roof above, at
>:least 3-12. Maybe add some recycled windows on the high side, above the
>:block, to keep the place nice and bright inside.(Habitat ReStore around
>:here usually has a selection of dirt-cheap salvage windows that would be
>:perfect for that.) For a mild climate like that, I wouldn't even bother
>:with wood decking- 2x6 or 2x8 rafters every 24", some 2x4 purlins every
>:3-4 feet, and use corrugated sheet, or barn roofing. You can buy the
>:sheets exact length needed from most jobber, so no cutting in the field,
>:and it goes up super-quick. They even have preformed strips for the top
>:end so water won't get in. You could also use barn siding on the new
>:wall, to minimize the chances of rot. Use treated wood for the framing,
>:at least where it touches horizontal concrete. May be more than you
>:need, but it will also make the house easier to sell for you or your
>:heirs. Nobody wants to start out with a nasty shed or garage. An urban
>:chicken coop like I described above would be quite appealing to people
>:like me.
>:
>:--
>:aem sends...
>Thanks for the great ideas! Treated wood, I wouldn't have thought of. I
>do have some wood preservative but I guess it would be better to get
>pressure treated wood.
>Dan
>Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net

Only use PT for what contacts the ground or concrete - use standard
SPF (or cedar if it is locally available at a good price) for the rest
of the framing. I hate PT - the new stuff eats nails at an alarming
rate - and would make short work of steel or aluminum siding too.

REALLY nasty stuff.

Posted by Dan Musicant on October 9, 2009, 12:02 am

On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 17:17:46 -0400, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:

:Only use PT for what contacts the ground or concrete - use standard
:SPF (or cedar if it is locally available at a good price) for the rest
:of the framing. I hate PT - the new stuff eats nails at an alarming
:rate - and would make short work of steel or aluminum siding too.
:
:REALLY nasty stuff.

SPF = Spruce Pine Fir?

PT eats nails, steel and aluminum? There's a compound in it that is THAT
caustic ?!

Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net

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Reroof flat roofed one car garage -- Metal? - Page 4