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Posted by on April 22, 2008, 1:12 pm
I'm in the process of replacing an existing Vent/Heat/Light unit in my
bathroom. The old wiring setup on this system seems odd to me.
The previous installer is running three Romex wires to the unit.
There is a two gang switch controlling (with one double switch).
One wire holds the Neutral and ground (other wire is clipped), coming
from source junction box.
Another wire is holding two feeds from the switch (the ground is
clipped).
The last wire is holding one feed from the switch (the other wires
are clipped).
Here is my question:
Due to new location of the new unit, and existing cable size, I need
to extend the two feed Romex cables coming from the switch. Hence, I
need a junction box to extend the lines. The issue is, if I use a
metal box then shouldn=92t those wires be grounded to the box?
Normally, I would say yes ground the wires to the box. However, the
previous installer cut the grounds on those cables=85 so what value
would there be in grounding them? Another solution is to use a
plastic junction box (which is legal in my town), to avoid the
grounding issue.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Raj
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Posted by DerbyDad03 on April 22, 2008, 2:21 pm
On Apr 22, 1:12=A0pm, rajmada...@gmail.com wrote:
> I'm in the process of replacing an existing Vent/Heat/Light unit in my
> bathroom. =A0The old wiring setup on this system seems odd to me.
>
> The previous installer is running three Romex wires to the unit.
> There is a two gang switch controlling (with one double switch).
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 One wire holds the Neutral and ground (other wire is clipp=
ed), coming
> from source junction box.
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Another wire is holding two feeds from the switch (the gro=
und is
> clipped).
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 The last wire is holding one feed from the switch (the oth=
er wires
> are clipped).
>
> Here is my question:
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Due to new location of the new unit, and existing cable si=
ze, I need
> to extend the two feed Romex cables coming from the switch. =A0Hence, I
> need a junction box to extend the lines. =A0The issue is, if I use a
> metal box then shouldn=92t those wires be grounded to the box?
> Normally, I would say yes ground the wires to the box. =A0However, the
> previous installer cut the grounds on those cables=85 so what value
> would there be in grounding them? =A0Another solution is to use a
> plastic junction box (which is legal in my town), to avoid the
> grounding issue.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Raj
re: "The old wiring setup on this system seems odd to me."
Is it possible to eliminate the existing (and bizarre) wiring and do
it correctly?
I would seem to me that this is the perfect time to correct a bad
wiring installation instead of simply extending it.
WWALED? (What would a licensed electrician do?)
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Posted by RBM on April 22, 2008, 5:32 pm
On Apr 22, 1:12 pm, rajmada...@gmail.com wrote:
> I'm in the process of replacing an existing Vent/Heat/Light unit in my
> bathroom. The old wiring setup on this system seems odd to me.
>
> The previous installer is running three Romex wires to the unit.
> There is a two gang switch controlling (with one double switch).
> One wire holds the Neutral and ground (other wire is clipped), coming
> from source junction box.
> Another wire is holding two feeds from the switch (the ground is
> clipped).
> The last wire is holding one feed from the switch (the other wires
> are clipped).
>
> Here is my question:
> Due to new location of the new unit, and existing cable size, I need
> to extend the two feed Romex cables coming from the switch. Hence, I
> need a junction box to extend the lines. The issue is, if I use a
> metal box then shouldn’t those wires be grounded to the box?
> Normally, I would say yes ground the wires to the box. However, the
> previous installer cut the grounds on those cables… so what value
> would there be in grounding them? Another solution is to use a
> plastic junction box (which is legal in my town), to avoid the
> grounding issue.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Raj
re: "The old wiring setup on this system seems odd to me."
Is it possible to eliminate the existing (and bizarre) wiring and do
it correctly?
I would seem to me that this is the perfect time to correct a bad
wiring installation instead of simply extending it.
WWALED? (What would a licensed electrician do?)
This electrician would run a 12/4 Romex, and if the unit had four functions,
light-heat-fan- night light, I would run 1/2 inch greenfield with a ground,
neutral, and four hots
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Posted by on April 22, 2008, 6:43 pm
> This electrician would run a 12/4 Romex, and if the unit had four function=
s,
> light-heat-fan- night light, I would run 1/2 inch greenfield with a ground=
,
> neutral, and four hots- Hide quoted text -
>
Sorry for the ignorance... here are some questions:
1) "1/2 inch greenfield" is a type of conduit?
2) This unit does have four functions, for the "ground and neutral",
would you use a 12/2 and clip the other wire? Would this also mean
the 12/4 would have its ground clipped?
Raj
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Posted by Nate Nagel on April 22, 2008, 9:52 pm
rajmadanny@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>This electrician would run a 12/4 Romex, and if the unit had four functions,
>>light-heat-fan- night light, I would run 1/2 inch greenfield with a ground,
>>neutral, and four hots
>
> Sorry for the ignorance... here are some questions:
> 1) "1/2 inch greenfield" is a type of conduit?
yes. think BX without the wires in it. You pull individual conductors
of THHN through it.
> 2) This unit does have four functions, for the "ground and neutral",
No it doesn't, he's talking about how many hots you need. you have
three functions, plus you need a neutral and ground.
> would you use a 12/2 and clip the other wire? Would this also mean
> the 12/4 would have its ground clipped?
No. read my earlier post - you need to get rid of all that's existing
and pull new cable. I guess RBM has actually seen 12/4, I haven't but I
haven't looked nor had a need for it. The whole point is, you need your
currents to sum to zero within every single cable assembly, and that's
not currently happening with what you have. The reason for this is to
minimize inductive heating of the wires.
Like I said before, if you have one of the functions where you can
isolate the neutral you can pull one 12/2 and one 12/3 and make it work.
If you can't, you need to either pull a 12/4 if such is available or
else go with greenfield, EMT or something like that - which will likely
involve painting and patching at some point.
good luck
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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