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Posted by DerbyDad03 on April 22, 2008, 4:38 pm
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> > > On Apr 22, 1:12=A0pm, rajmada...@gmail.com wrote:
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> > > > I'm in the process of replacing an existing Vent/Heat/Light unit in =
my
> > > > bathroom. =A0The old wiring setup on this system seems odd to me.
>
> > > > The previous installer is running three Romex wires to the unit.
> > > > There is a two gang switch controlling (with one double switch).
> > > > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 One wire holds the Neutral and ground (other wire is=
clipped), coming
> > > > from source junction box.
> > > > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Another wire is holding two feeds from the switch (t=
he ground is
> > > > clipped).
> > > > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 The last wire is holding one feed from the switch (t=
he other wires
> > > > are clipped).
>
> > > > Here is my question:
> > > > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Due to new location of the new unit, and existing ca=
ble size, I need
> > > > to extend the two feed Romex cables coming from the switch. =A0Hence=
, I
> > > > need a junction box to extend the lines. =A0The issue is, if I use a=
> > > > metal box then shouldn=92t those wires be grounded to the box?
> > > > Normally, I would say yes ground the wires to the box. =A0However, t=
he
> > > > previous installer cut the grounds on those cables=85 so what value
> > > > would there be in grounding them? =A0Another solution is to use a
> > > > plastic junction box (which is legal in my town), to avoid the
> > > > grounding issue.
>
> > > > Any thoughts?
>
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Raj
>
> > > The whole thing is incorrect, you should be running one cable from the=
> > > switch box to the unit. =A0Since that is not possible given that you
> > > have three different functions in the unit (unless someone makes a
> > > 12/4wg cable?) that is, vent, heat, and light, do any of these
> > > functions have their own neutral? =A0If that is the case then you shou=
ld
> > > run a separate cable for the light, say, as a 12/2 w/ground, and then
> > > another cable 12/3 w/ground for the vent and heat. =A0Neutrals should =
be
> > > connected to each other at the switch box but NOT in the v/h/l unit.
> > > this way the currents in each cable will sum to zero in the absence of=
> > > a ground fault. =A0All grounds should be connected together and to the=
> > > box at all locations.
>
> > > You will have to run new wire from the switch box to the new location
> > > to be code compliant.
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> > > good luck
>
> > > nate- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
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> > What N8N describes is essentially what I did, except that there are 2
> > additional lights in the bathroom.
>
> > There are 3 switches on the wall - one vertical, the other 2
> > horizontal.
>
> > The vertical switch is wired to control the light in the heat/vent
> > unit as well as the 2 other recessed lights via 14/2wg romex. (The
> > lights are on the load side of the GFCI outlet since one recessed
> > fixture is above the shower stall.)
>
> > The horizontal switches control the heat or vent via 14/3wg.
>
> > The top horizontal switch controls the vent, because the vent pulls
> > air up, the lower horizontal switch controls the heat because the heat
> > blows down.
>
> > Anal? Did I hear someone say anal?- Hide quoted text -
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> > - Show quoted text -
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> I mentioned 12/2 and 12/3 because I was assuming a dedicated 20A
> circuit for the bathroom.
>
> yes, I'm still planning exactly how I'm going to rewire mine.
>
> nate- Hide quoted text -
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> - Show quoted text -
Ya know...it's been so long and I'm not home now, but it very possible
that everything I said about 14/2 and 14/3 should be 12/2 and 12/3.
Either that or I ganged two 15A breakers and ran 2 circuits. I
remember how I wired it, now you've got me wondering what I wired it
with!
Da*m, now I gotta go home and check.
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