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Roof framing repair advise needed

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Roof framing repair advise needed MiamiCuse 06-13-2007
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Posted by MiamiCuse on June 13, 2007, 11:23 pm
I need some expert advise on how to repair rotted roof framing.

I am repairing a house that had some termite and rot problems over the year.
The house has been tented and roof has been replaced last year by the
previous owner.

Now I am repairing some areas of the fascia and underlying lumber. It's
probably easier to show a few pictures.

Here is one side where I removed the soffit ceiling to expose the soffit
framing.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010074.jpg

Before I removed the soffit I thought the damaged piece is a short section
from the exterior wall to the fascia, but turned out it goes all the way
inside so I cannot replace it. The ends are basically rotted away and had
termite damage as well. The fascia is a 2x12 that will be attached to it
perpendicularly. I guess the only way to repair this, is to attach a 2x6
like I had to one side? or should I attach another one to the other side
and "sandwich" the damaged piece? What is the best way to repair this?

Another damaged area is shown here from an angle:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010079.jpg

a side view of the same damaged area:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/P1010075.jpg

a close up with annotations:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010081.jpg

In the above image, you can see the rafter extends to the fascia (which I
already removed) and the end of the rafter is completely rotted. Again it
extends all the way to the inside of the roof and it's impossible to
replace, so my solution is to use an attached 2x4, well, I will now change
it to a 3x8 to match it exactly.

Note the rafter is attached to another fascia. This is a 2x12. There is a
metal I-beam that runs across the ceiling, the 2x12 is seated inside the I
beam so that another layer of fascia can be attached to it. See how the
termite had eaten half the wood away? I was thinking about cutting that
piece out but with the I beam in the way I cannot cut it and replace that
section, then I thought it is best to not cut it to preserve whatever
strength it has. My question is - is there a way to strengthen it? I know
since the I-beam carries the roof load this 2x12 is not truly structural,
but I will have another layer of fascia covering it, and then some parts of
it will be attached to a gutter, and some parts of it will be attached to an
overhead screen enclosure framework, so it will have to be able to handle
that.

My question is whether there is any product I can use to "fill" this hole
that will have some structural strength? Is there any kind of structural
wood filler? Anything at all that may help?

After I repair all the pieces, should I tie the 2x12 and the adjacent rafter
together using some metal straps would that make things better?

Thanks,

MC



Posted by dadiOH on June 14, 2007, 9:54 am
MiamiCuse wrote:
> I need some expert advise on how to repair rotted roof framing.
>
> I am repairing a house that had some termite and rot problems over
> the year. The house has been tented and roof has been replaced last
> year by the previous owner.
>
> Now I am repairing some areas of the fascia and underlying lumber.
> It's probably easier to show a few pictures.
>
> Here is one side where I removed the soffit ceiling to expose the
> soffit framing.
>
>
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP10100
74.jpg
>
> Before I removed the soffit I thought the damaged piece is a short
> section from the exterior wall to the fascia, but turned out it
> goes all the way inside so I cannot replace it.

Is it a truss rather than a rafter?.
_______________

> The ends are
> basically rotted away and had termite damage as well. The fascia
> is a 2x12 that will be attached to it perpendicularly.

A 2x12 ???????? I have little experience in this area but the
fascias on my Florida house are 3/4 x6 cedar.
______________

> My question is whether there is any product I can use to "fill"
> this hole that will have some structural strength? Is there any
> kind of structural wood filler? Anything at all that may help?

GitRot
__________________

> After I repair all the pieces, should I tie the 2x12 and the
> adjacent rafter together using some metal straps would that make
> things better?

What you *should* do is get a contractor...someone that knows what to
do and how to do it.

Someone also needs to figure out why you are getting water damage at
the ends of the trusses/rafters. The fascia should cover them and the
drip strip - the piece of aluminum directly under the tile - should
extend downward over the fascia board so that no water can get to
them. In at least one of the photos you linked, that doesn't look
like it is the case.
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP10100
74.jpg



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico




Posted by on June 14, 2007, 11:30 am
> MiamiCuse wrote:
> > I need some expert advise on how to repair rotted roof framing.
>
> > I am repairing a house that had some termite and rot problems over
> > the year. The house has been tented and roof has been replaced last
> > year by the previous owner.
>
> > Now I am repairing some areas of the fascia and underlying lumber.
> > It's probably easier to show a few pictures.
>
> > Here is one side where I removed the soffit ceiling to expose the
> > soffit framing.
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP10100
> 74.jpg
>
>
>
> > Before I removed the soffit I thought the damaged piece is a short
> > section from the exterior wall to the fascia, but turned out it
> > goes all the way inside so I cannot replace it.
>
> Is it a truss rather than a rafter?.
> _______________
>
> > The ends are
> > basically rotted away and had termite damage as well. The fascia
> > is a 2x12 that will be attached to it perpendicularly.
>
> A 2x12 ???????? I have little experience in this area but the
> fascias on my Florida house are 3/4 x6 cedar.
> ______________
>
> > My question is whether there is any product I can use to "fill"
> > this hole that will have some structural strength? Is there any
> > kind of structural wood filler? Anything at all that may help?
>
> GitRot
> __________________
>
> > After I repair all the pieces, should I tie the 2x12 and the
> > adjacent rafter together using some metal straps would that make
> > things better?
>
> What you *should* do is get a contractor...someone that knows what to
> do and how to do it.
>
> Someone also needs to figure out why you are getting water damage at
> the ends of the trusses/rafters. The fascia should cover them and the
> drip strip - the piece of aluminum directly under the tile - should
> extend downward over the fascia board so that no water can get to
> them. In at least one of the photos you linked, that doesn't look
> like it is the
case.http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP10100
> 74.jpg
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

There is no water damage now. I have done waited through several rain
storms as well as using garden hoses on the roof to test various
angles.

The moisture damages was done prior to the reroof which cost the
previous owner 40K. I have removed soffit boards in about 50 % of the
eave areas and it's all dry. Some of the rot were caused by termites,
and the house was tented at the end of 2004 so I believe all these
were pre-existing damages which has since been cured by the termite
tenting and new roof.

As to why they did not replace the damaged rafters when re-roofing, I
don't know.

Thanks.



Posted by on June 14, 2007, 11:40 am
>
> A 2x12 ???????? I have little experience in this area but the
> fascias on my Florida house are 3/4 x6 cedar.

> dadiOH

Much of the fascia in this house are 2x12s, well I am not sure I
should have called them fascia. The house's exterior walls are all
poured solid concrete, there are metal I-BEAMs along all the exterior
and interior perimeters above the ceiling. The metal I-BEAMs are used
to support roof overhang areas - some sticks out 6 to 8 feet.

The I-BEAMs are 12" deep, embedded into the "I" of the I-BEAM are the
2x12 boards. They are bolted onto the I-BEAM and the "real" fascia
are attached to that lumber. I called the embedded lumber fascia but
it's incorrect. The actual fascia is a four layer construction, with
a 1x12 on top of that, then a 1x10 layer mounted flushed to the top,
then another 1x8 layer, then another 1x6 layer. So the actual fascia
is a 4 layer 1x with decreasing depths.





Posted by Pat on June 14, 2007, 10:17 am
> I need some expert advise on how to repair rotted roof framing.
>
> I am repairing a house that had some termite and rot problems over the year.
> The house has been tented and roof has been replaced last year by the
> previous owner.
>
> Now I am repairing some areas of the fascia and underlying lumber. It's
> probably easier to show a few pictures.
>
> Here is one side where I removed the soffit ceiling to expose the soffit
> framing.
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> Before I removed the soffit I thought the damaged piece is a short section
> from the exterior wall to the fascia, but turned out it goes all the way
> inside so I cannot replace it. The ends are basically rotted away and had
> termite damage as well. The fascia is a 2x12 that will be attached to it
> perpendicularly. I guess the only way to repair this, is to attach a 2x6
> like I had to one side? or should I attach another one to the other side
> and "sandwich" the damaged piece? What is the best way to repair this?
>
> Another damaged area is shown here from an angle:
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> a side view of the same damaged area:
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/P1010075.jpg
>
> a close up with annotations:
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> In the above image, you can see the rafter extends to the fascia (which I
> already removed) and the end of the rafter is completely rotted. Again it
> extends all the way to the inside of the roof and it's impossible to
> replace, so my solution is to use an attached 2x4, well, I will now change
> it to a 3x8 to match it exactly.
>
> Note the rafter is attached to another fascia. This is a 2x12. There is a
> metal I-beam that runs across the ceiling, the 2x12 is seated inside the I
> beam so that another layer of fascia can be attached to it. See how the
> termite had eaten half the wood away? I was thinking about cutting that
> piece out but with the I beam in the way I cannot cut it and replace that
> section, then I thought it is best to not cut it to preserve whatever
> strength it has. My question is - is there a way to strengthen it? I know
> since the I-beam carries the roof load this 2x12 is not truly structural,
> but I will have another layer of fascia covering it, and then some parts of
> it will be attached to a gutter, and some parts of it will be attached to an
> overhead screen enclosure framework, so it will have to be able to handle
> that.
>
> My question is whether there is any product I can use to "fill" this hole
> that will have some structural strength? Is there any kind of structural
> wood filler? Anything at all that may help?
>
> After I repair all the pieces, should I tie the 2x12 and the adjacent rafter
> together using some metal straps would that make things better?
>
> Thanks,
>
> MC

Man, I hope you bought that house CHEAP after seeing what you are
going through with it. Man-o-man.

I think you need to have someone take a serious look at this issue.
I'm not sure that your short little sister is sufficient there.
Granted it doesn't hold much weight but it's got some leverage on it
and who knows what a high wind would do.

Before you go throw too much money at it, you might want to consider
just ripping it all out and starting again. If you do that, you might
then consider what else you might want to do at the same time -- like
add a second floor or bump up the ceiling or put in sky lights to find
a way to re-route your troublesome AC.

Ugh. Good luck with it. Sorry I can't be more helpful.


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