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Roof framing repair advise needed

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Roof framing repair advise needed MiamiCuse 06-13-2007
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Posted by on June 14, 2007, 11:33 am
>
>
>
> > I need some expert advise on how to repair rotted roof framing.
>
> > I am repairing a house that had some termite and rot problems over the year.
> > The house has been tented and roof has been replaced last year by the
> > previous owner.
>
> > Now I am repairing some areas of the fascia and underlying lumber. It's
> > probably easier to show a few pictures.
>
> > Here is one side where I removed the soffit ceiling to expose the soffit
> > framing.
>
> >http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> > Before I removed the soffit I thought the damaged piece is a short section
> > from the exterior wall to the fascia, but turned out it goes all the way
> > inside so I cannot replace it. The ends are basically rotted away and had
> > termite damage as well. The fascia is a 2x12 that will be attached to it
> > perpendicularly. I guess the only way to repair this, is to attach a 2x6
> > like I had to one side? or should I attach another one to the other side
> > and "sandwich" the damaged piece? What is the best way to repair this?
>
> > Another damaged area is shown here from an angle:
>
> >http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> > a side view of the same damaged area:
>
> >http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/P1010075.jpg
>
> > a close up with annotations:
>
> >http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> > In the above image, you can see the rafter extends to the fascia (which I
> > already removed) and the end of the rafter is completely rotted. Again it
> > extends all the way to the inside of the roof and it's impossible to
> > replace, so my solution is to use an attached 2x4, well, I will now change
> > it to a 3x8 to match it exactly.
>
> > Note the rafter is attached to another fascia. This is a 2x12. There is a
> > metal I-beam that runs across the ceiling, the 2x12 is seated inside the I
> > beam so that another layer of fascia can be attached to it. See how the
> > termite had eaten half the wood away? I was thinking about cutting that
> > piece out but with the I beam in the way I cannot cut it and replace that
> > section, then I thought it is best to not cut it to preserve whatever
> > strength it has. My question is - is there a way to strengthen it? I know
> > since the I-beam carries the roof load this 2x12 is not truly structural,
> > but I will have another layer of fascia covering it, and then some parts of
> > it will be attached to a gutter, and some parts of it will be attached to an
> > overhead screen enclosure framework, so it will have to be able to handle
> > that.
>
> > My question is whether there is any product I can use to "fill" this hole
> > that will have some structural strength? Is there any kind of structural
> > wood filler? Anything at all that may help?
>
> > After I repair all the pieces, should I tie the 2x12 and the adjacent rafter
> > together using some metal straps would that make things better?
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > MC
>
> Man, I hope you bought that house CHEAP after seeing what you are
> going through with it. Man-o-man.
>
> I think you need to have someone take a serious look at this issue.
> I'm not sure that your short little sister is sufficient there.
> Granted it doesn't hold much weight but it's got some leverage on it
> and who knows what a high wind would do.
>
> Before you go throw too much money at it, you might want to consider
> just ripping it all out and starting again. If you do that, you might
> then consider what else you might want to do at the same time -- like
> add a second floor or bump up the ceiling or put in sky lights to find
> a way to re-route your troublesome AC.
>
> Ugh. Good luck with it. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Well, no I did not get a good deal, it was an ok deal, but I know
going in I will need to do major renovations. So some of this work
has been factored in, but I have found some surprises.

Some of these problems are connected and some are not. My troublesome
AC is in another room fifty feet away so they cannot be solved
together. I would prefer to save this roof that is brand new if I can
somehow solve the problem from below.


AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by EXT on June 14, 2007, 2:44 pm
It sounds like the previous owner who may have spent $40,000 on the roof,
did a cheap cosmetic repair where he probably should have spent another
$10,000 to do a proper job. For you to do more superficial patching will not
really repair the problems but only extend the life for a while. You need to
do some major sistering and not with short blocking, basically replacing all
the damaged wood or at least doubling/tripling framing that is no longer
structural.

>> I need some expert advise on how to repair rotted roof framing.
>>
>> I am repairing a house that had some termite and rot problems over the
>> year.
>> The house has been tented and roof has been replaced last year by the
>> previous owner.
>>
>> Now I am repairing some areas of the fascia and underlying lumber. It's
>> probably easier to show a few pictures.
>>
>> Here is one side where I removed the soffit ceiling to expose the soffit
>> framing.
>>
>> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>>
>> Before I removed the soffit I thought the damaged piece is a short
>> section
>> from the exterior wall to the fascia, but turned out it goes all the way
>> inside so I cannot replace it. The ends are basically rotted away and
>> had
>> termite damage as well. The fascia is a 2x12 that will be attached to it
>> perpendicularly. I guess the only way to repair this, is to attach a 2x6
>> like I had to one side? or should I attach another one to the other side
>> and "sandwich" the damaged piece? What is the best way to repair this?
>>
>> Another damaged area is shown here from an angle:
>>
>> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>>
>> a side view of the same damaged area:
>>
>> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/P1010075.jpg
>>
>> a close up with annotations:
>>
>> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>>
>> In the above image, you can see the rafter extends to the fascia (which I
>> already removed) and the end of the rafter is completely rotted. Again
>> it
>> extends all the way to the inside of the roof and it's impossible to
>> replace, so my solution is to use an attached 2x4, well, I will now
>> change
>> it to a 3x8 to match it exactly.
>>
>> Note the rafter is attached to another fascia. This is a 2x12. There is
>> a
>> metal I-beam that runs across the ceiling, the 2x12 is seated inside the
>> I
>> beam so that another layer of fascia can be attached to it. See how the
>> termite had eaten half the wood away? I was thinking about cutting that
>> piece out but with the I beam in the way I cannot cut it and replace that
>> section, then I thought it is best to not cut it to preserve whatever
>> strength it has. My question is - is there a way to strengthen it? I
>> know
>> since the I-beam carries the roof load this 2x12 is not truly structural,
>> but I will have another layer of fascia covering it, and then some parts
>> of
>> it will be attached to a gutter, and some parts of it will be attached to
>> an
>> overhead screen enclosure framework, so it will have to be able to handle
>> that.
>>
>> My question is whether there is any product I can use to "fill" this hole
>> that will have some structural strength? Is there any kind of structural
>> wood filler? Anything at all that may help?
>>
>> After I repair all the pieces, should I tie the 2x12 and the adjacent
>> rafter
>> together using some metal straps would that make things better?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> MC
>
> Man, I hope you bought that house CHEAP after seeing what you are
> going through with it. Man-o-man.
>
> I think you need to have someone take a serious look at this issue.
> I'm not sure that your short little sister is sufficient there.
> Granted it doesn't hold much weight but it's got some leverage on it
> and who knows what a high wind would do.
>
> Before you go throw too much money at it, you might want to consider
> just ripping it all out and starting again. If you do that, you might
> then consider what else you might want to do at the same time -- like
> add a second floor or bump up the ceiling or put in sky lights to find
> a way to re-route your troublesome AC.
>
> Ugh. Good luck with it. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
>



Posted by Pat on June 14, 2007, 2:53 pm
> It sounds like the previous owner who may have spent $40,000 on the roof,
> did a cheap cosmetic repair where he probably should have spent another
> $10,000 to do a proper job. For you to do more superficial patching will not
> really repair the problems but only extend the life for a while. You need to
> do some major sistering and not with short blocking, basically replacing all
> the damaged wood or at least doubling/tripling framing that is no longer
> structural.
>
>
>
> >> I need some expert advise on how to repair rotted roof framing.
>
> >> I am repairing a house that had some termite and rot problems over the
> >> year.
> >> The house has been tented and roof has been replaced last year by the
> >> previous owner.
>
> >> Now I am repairing some areas of the fascia and underlying lumber. It's
> >> probably easier to show a few pictures.
>
> >> Here is one side where I removed the soffit ceiling to expose the soffit
> >> framing.
>
> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> >> Before I removed the soffit I thought the damaged piece is a short
> >> section
> >> from the exterior wall to the fascia, but turned out it goes all the way
> >> inside so I cannot replace it. The ends are basically rotted away and
> >> had
> >> termite damage as well. The fascia is a 2x12 that will be attached to it
> >> perpendicularly. I guess the only way to repair this, is to attach a 2x6
> >> like I had to one side? or should I attach another one to the other side
> >> and "sandwich" the damaged piece? What is the best way to repair this?
>
> >> Another damaged area is shown here from an angle:
>
> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> >> a side view of the same damaged area:
>
> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/P1010075.jpg
>
> >> a close up with annotations:
>
> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> >> In the above image, you can see the rafter extends to the fascia (which I
> >> already removed) and the end of the rafter is completely rotted. Again
> >> it
> >> extends all the way to the inside of the roof and it's impossible to
> >> replace, so my solution is to use an attached 2x4, well, I will now
> >> change
> >> it to a 3x8 to match it exactly.
>
> >> Note the rafter is attached to another fascia. This is a 2x12. There is
> >> a
> >> metal I-beam that runs across the ceiling, the 2x12 is seated inside the
> >> I
> >> beam so that another layer of fascia can be attached to it. See how the
> >> termite had eaten half the wood away? I was thinking about cutting that
> >> piece out but with the I beam in the way I cannot cut it and replace that
> >> section, then I thought it is best to not cut it to preserve whatever
> >> strength it has. My question is - is there a way to strengthen it? I
> >> know
> >> since the I-beam carries the roof load this 2x12 is not truly structural,
> >> but I will have another layer of fascia covering it, and then some parts
> >> of
> >> it will be attached to a gutter, and some parts of it will be attached to
> >> an
> >> overhead screen enclosure framework, so it will have to be able to handle
> >> that.
>
> >> My question is whether there is any product I can use to "fill" this hole
> >> that will have some structural strength? Is there any kind of structural
> >> wood filler? Anything at all that may help?
>
> >> After I repair all the pieces, should I tie the 2x12 and the adjacent
> >> rafter
> >> together using some metal straps would that make things better?
>
> >> Thanks,
>
> >> MC
>
> > Man, I hope you bought that house CHEAP after seeing what you are
> > going through with it. Man-o-man.
>
> > I think you need to have someone take a serious look at this issue.
> > I'm not sure that your short little sister is sufficient there.
> > Granted it doesn't hold much weight but it's got some leverage on it
> > and who knows what a high wind would do.
>
> > Before you go throw too much money at it, you might want to consider
> > just ripping it all out and starting again. If you do that, you might
> > then consider what else you might want to do at the same time -- like
> > add a second floor or bump up the ceiling or put in sky lights to find
> > a way to re-route your troublesome AC.
>
> > Ugh. Good luck with it. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

I agree. He needs to go longer with the sisters. But to do that he's
getting into serious trouble. It's be hard to do from the outside.
So he'll either need to take the roof off (at which time he might as
well just replace everything) or get into the attic to do that (or
take out sheetrock if he can't get into the attic). But just the
patch will need to include doubling just about everything. Ugh. Too
bad. Time to call a serious roofing contractor.


Posted by MiamiCuse on June 15, 2007, 12:12 am

>> It sounds like the previous owner who may have spent $40,000 on the roof,
>> did a cheap cosmetic repair where he probably should have spent another
>> $10,000 to do a proper job. For you to do more superficial patching will
>> not
>> really repair the problems but only extend the life for a while. You need
>> to
>> do some major sistering and not with short blocking, basically replacing
>> all
>> the damaged wood or at least doubling/tripling framing that is no longer
>> structural.
>>
>>
>>
>> >> I need some expert advise on how to repair rotted roof framing.
>>
>> >> I am repairing a house that had some termite and rot problems over the
>> >> year.
>> >> The house has been tented and roof has been replaced last year by the
>> >> previous owner.
>>
>> >> Now I am repairing some areas of the fascia and underlying lumber.
>> >> It's
>> >> probably easier to show a few pictures.
>>
>> >> Here is one side where I removed the soffit ceiling to expose the
>> >> soffit
>> >> framing.
>>
>> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>>
>> >> Before I removed the soffit I thought the damaged piece is a short
>> >> section
>> >> from the exterior wall to the fascia, but turned out it goes all the
>> >> way
>> >> inside so I cannot replace it. The ends are basically rotted away and
>> >> had
>> >> termite damage as well. The fascia is a 2x12 that will be attached to
>> >> it
>> >> perpendicularly. I guess the only way to repair this, is to attach a
>> >> 2x6
>> >> like I had to one side? or should I attach another one to the other
>> >> side
>> >> and "sandwich" the damaged piece? What is the best way to repair
>> >> this?
>>
>> >> Another damaged area is shown here from an angle:
>>
>> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>>
>> >> a side view of the same damaged area:
>>
>> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/P1010075.jpg
>>
>> >> a close up with annotations:
>>
>> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>>
>> >> In the above image, you can see the rafter extends to the fascia
>> >> (which I
>> >> already removed) and the end of the rafter is completely rotted.
>> >> Again
>> >> it
>> >> extends all the way to the inside of the roof and it's impossible to
>> >> replace, so my solution is to use an attached 2x4, well, I will now
>> >> change
>> >> it to a 3x8 to match it exactly.
>>
>> >> Note the rafter is attached to another fascia. This is a 2x12. There
>> >> is
>> >> a
>> >> metal I-beam that runs across the ceiling, the 2x12 is seated inside
>> >> the
>> >> I
>> >> beam so that another layer of fascia can be attached to it. See how
>> >> the
>> >> termite had eaten half the wood away? I was thinking about cutting
>> >> that
>> >> piece out but with the I beam in the way I cannot cut it and replace
>> >> that
>> >> section, then I thought it is best to not cut it to preserve whatever
>> >> strength it has. My question is - is there a way to strengthen it? I
>> >> know
>> >> since the I-beam carries the roof load this 2x12 is not truly
>> >> structural,
>> >> but I will have another layer of fascia covering it, and then some
>> >> parts
>> >> of
>> >> it will be attached to a gutter, and some parts of it will be attached
>> >> to
>> >> an
>> >> overhead screen enclosure framework, so it will have to be able to
>> >> handle
>> >> that.
>>
>> >> My question is whether there is any product I can use to "fill" this
>> >> hole
>> >> that will have some structural strength? Is there any kind of
>> >> structural
>> >> wood filler? Anything at all that may help?
>>
>> >> After I repair all the pieces, should I tie the 2x12 and the adjacent
>> >> rafter
>> >> together using some metal straps would that make things better?
>>
>> >> Thanks,
>>
>> >> MC
>>
>> > Man, I hope you bought that house CHEAP after seeing what you are
>> > going through with it. Man-o-man.
>>
>> > I think you need to have someone take a serious look at this issue.
>> > I'm not sure that your short little sister is sufficient there.
>> > Granted it doesn't hold much weight but it's got some leverage on it
>> > and who knows what a high wind would do.
>>
>> > Before you go throw too much money at it, you might want to consider
>> > just ripping it all out and starting again. If you do that, you might
>> > then consider what else you might want to do at the same time -- like
>> > add a second floor or bump up the ceiling or put in sky lights to find
>> > a way to re-route your troublesome AC.
>>
>> > Ugh. Good luck with it. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
>
> I agree. He needs to go longer with the sisters. But to do that he's
> getting into serious trouble. It's be hard to do from the outside.
> So he'll either need to take the roof off (at which time he might as
> well just replace everything) or get into the attic to do that (or
> take out sheetrock if he can't get into the attic). But just the
> patch will need to include doubling just about everything. Ugh. Too
> bad. Time to call a serious roofing contractor.
>

There are only about six rafters that are in that condition, localized to
one area. Most rot are at the end of the rafter where the fascia is
attached. I think by sistering the end I can support whatever weight I need
to support for the fascia.

If I need to get into the attic to double the whole thing I can do it, I
plan on ripping out all the ceilings anyways so it's possible, but is it
necessary to double sister 18' of rafter when the damage is at the last six
inches? It's not impossible it's doable just more work but I thought that's
an overkill.

Thanks,

MC



Posted by dpb on June 15, 2007, 9:48 am
MiamiCuse wrote:
...
> There are only about six rafters that are in that condition, localized to
> one area. Most rot are at the end of the rafter where the fascia is
> attached. I think by sistering the end I can support whatever weight I need
> to support for the fascia.
>
> If I need to get into the attic to double the whole thing I can do it, I
> plan on ripping out all the ceilings anyways so it's possible, but is it
> necessary to double sister 18' of rafter when the damage is at the last six
> inches? It's not impossible it's doable just more work but I thought that's
> an overkill.


No, not if it is only minimally structural as this and your other post
indicate. You need _at least_ 2x the length of the bad back onto good
material and certainly not less than 12-18" as simply a practical matter
of having enough material to make a good joint overlap. Certainly more
is better from a structural standpoint, but 18' for a 6" overhang is
certainly overkill.

As others have noted, the key item is to make sure whatever it was that
allowed the water damage to begin with is resolved prior to anything else.

--

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