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Posted by Pat on June 15, 2007, 11:20 am
>
>
>
>
> >> It sounds like the previous owner who may have spent $40,000 on the roof,
> >> did a cheap cosmetic repair where he probably should have spent another
> >> $10,000 to do a proper job. For you to do more superficial patching will
> >> not
> >> really repair the problems but only extend the life for a while. You need
> >> to
> >> do some major sistering and not with short blocking, basically replacing
> >> all
> >> the damaged wood or at least doubling/tripling framing that is no longer
> >> structural.
>
>
>
> >> >> I need some expert advise on how to repair rotted roof framing.
>
> >> >> I am repairing a house that had some termite and rot problems over the
> >> >> year.
> >> >> The house has been tented and roof has been replaced last year by the
> >> >> previous owner.
>
> >> >> Now I am repairing some areas of the fascia and underlying lumber.
> >> >> It's
> >> >> probably easier to show a few pictures.
>
> >> >> Here is one side where I removed the soffit ceiling to expose the
> >> >> soffit
> >> >> framing.
>
> >> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> >> >> Before I removed the soffit I thought the damaged piece is a short
> >> >> section
> >> >> from the exterior wall to the fascia, but turned out it goes all the
> >> >> way
> >> >> inside so I cannot replace it. The ends are basically rotted away and
> >> >> had
> >> >> termite damage as well. The fascia is a 2x12 that will be attached to
> >> >> it
> >> >> perpendicularly. I guess the only way to repair this, is to attach a
> >> >> 2x6
> >> >> like I had to one side? or should I attach another one to the other
> >> >> side
> >> >> and "sandwich" the damaged piece? What is the best way to repair
> >> >> this?
>
> >> >> Another damaged area is shown here from an angle:
>
> >> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> >> >> a side view of the same damaged area:
>
> >> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/P1010075.jpg
>
> >> >> a close up with annotations:
>
> >> >>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010...
>
> >> >> In the above image, you can see the rafter extends to the fascia
> >> >> (which I
> >> >> already removed) and the end of the rafter is completely rotted.
> >> >> Again
> >> >> it
> >> >> extends all the way to the inside of the roof and it's impossible to
> >> >> replace, so my solution is to use an attached 2x4, well, I will now
> >> >> change
> >> >> it to a 3x8 to match it exactly.
>
> >> >> Note the rafter is attached to another fascia. This is a 2x12. There
> >> >> is
> >> >> a
> >> >> metal I-beam that runs across the ceiling, the 2x12 is seated inside
> >> >> the
> >> >> I
> >> >> beam so that another layer of fascia can be attached to it. See how
> >> >> the
> >> >> termite had eaten half the wood away? I was thinking about cutting
> >> >> that
> >> >> piece out but with the I beam in the way I cannot cut it and replace
> >> >> that
> >> >> section, then I thought it is best to not cut it to preserve whatever
> >> >> strength it has. My question is - is there a way to strengthen it? I
> >> >> know
> >> >> since the I-beam carries the roof load this 2x12 is not truly
> >> >> structural,
> >> >> but I will have another layer of fascia covering it, and then some
> >> >> parts
> >> >> of
> >> >> it will be attached to a gutter, and some parts of it will be attached
> >> >> to
> >> >> an
> >> >> overhead screen enclosure framework, so it will have to be able to
> >> >> handle
> >> >> that.
>
> >> >> My question is whether there is any product I can use to "fill" this
> >> >> hole
> >> >> that will have some structural strength? Is there any kind of
> >> >> structural
> >> >> wood filler? Anything at all that may help?
>
> >> >> After I repair all the pieces, should I tie the 2x12 and the adjacent
> >> >> rafter
> >> >> together using some metal straps would that make things better?
>
> >> >> Thanks,
>
> >> >> MC
>
> >> > Man, I hope you bought that house CHEAP after seeing what you are
> >> > going through with it. Man-o-man.
>
> >> > I think you need to have someone take a serious look at this issue.
> >> > I'm not sure that your short little sister is sufficient there.
> >> > Granted it doesn't hold much weight but it's got some leverage on it
> >> > and who knows what a high wind would do.
>
> >> > Before you go throw too much money at it, you might want to consider
> >> > just ripping it all out and starting again. If you do that, you might
> >> > then consider what else you might want to do at the same time -- like
> >> > add a second floor or bump up the ceiling or put in sky lights to find
> >> > a way to re-route your troublesome AC.
>
> >> > Ugh. Good luck with it. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
>
> > I agree. He needs to go longer with the sisters. But to do that he's
> > getting into serious trouble. It's be hard to do from the outside.
> > So he'll either need to take the roof off (at which time he might as
> > well just replace everything) or get into the attic to do that (or
> > take out sheetrock if he can't get into the attic). But just the
> > patch will need to include doubling just about everything. Ugh. Too
> > bad. Time to call a serious roofing contractor.
>
> There are only about six rafters that are in that condition, localized to
> one area. Most rot are at the end of the rafter where the fascia is
> attached. I think by sistering the end I can support whatever weight I need
> to support for the fascia.
>
> If I need to get into the attic to double the whole thing I can do it, I
> plan on ripping out all the ceilings anyways so it's possible, but is it
> necessary to double sister 18' of rafter when the damage is at the last six
> inches? It's not impossible it's doable just more work but I thought that's
> an overkill.
>
> Thanks,
>
> MC
If it were I, first off I'd sell the damn house and get out of Miami,
but I guess that's not the advice you're looking for.
Looking at this picture:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/CopyofP1010074.jpg
You need to think about the leverage the load has on the wood, both in
terms of wind load and snow load ;-)
I would sister the beam and I think 1 side is okay. but I woud extend
the sister inside the house for the same distance that it sticks out
past the wall. I don't know why I would do that, but it would make me
feel much more secure when someone walks on the roof or a big wind
comes. As I was doing that, I would just cut out the bad wood and
replace that too, but nailing it to the new sister. It's not like the
rotted wood is doing you any good. Just cut it off and pull it off
the sheathing.
But the MOST important part is to figure out where the water came from
and stop it. Stop the water. Stop the water. Stop the water.
Finally, you've found a bunch of "weird" stuff in that house --
nothing your fault but just plain weird. That wood is rotted but the
plywood looks okay. It seems like someone tore off the old roof, put
in new plywood and left the bad stringers. Before you go any farther,
get up in the attic and see what the wood looks like up there and make
sure this isn't a bigger problem that was covered up.
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