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Rotary phase converter: local ground or all the way to the panel?

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Rotary phase converter: local ground or all the way to the panel? rpseguin 02-27-2008
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Posted by Gary H. Lucas on February 28, 2008, 9:07 pm

>> Shhh but in a pinch I've used a "strand"--twisted together from 3
>> individual
>> pieces of #12 or 14 copper.
>
>
> :-)
> I get the message. I won't cheap out. My credit card is feeling the
> strain though.
>
> Still looking around for some #2 or bigger. I've got a lead on some
> #4 wire.
>
> My plan, after all the advice is to put a single phase 100A subpanel
> in the garage.
> That subpanel will have a breaker for the RPC.
>
>
> Main
> Panel
> |
> | #2 wire, 70+ feet run
> |
> 1ph
> Sub-panel
> |
> | 60A 2 pole breaker, #2 wire, 10 foot max run
> |
> RPC
> |
> | #2 wire, 10 foot max run
> |
> 3ph
> Panel
> (3ph/pole breakers for machines)
>

If you don't need to go underground buy aluminum mud cable, this will easily
be the cheapest solution. Aluminum got a bad name because they tried to use
it in small sizes in residential, with the wrong devices, along with labor
that was clueless about proper techniques. We made a lot of money fixing
jobs done wrong in aluminum, and I have never seen a properly done aluminum
job fail.

Gary H. Lucas



AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by Stuart on February 29, 2008, 5:52 am
> Aluminum got a bad name because they tried to use it in small sizes in
> residential, with the wrong devices, along with labor that was clueless
> about proper techniques. We made a lot of money fixing jobs done wrong
> in aluminum, and I have never seen a properly done aluminum job fail.

I seem to remember using some sort of yellow paste where it was joined to
other metals to prevent corrosion - Unial?

--
Stuart Winsor

From is valid but subject to change without notice if it gets spammed.

For Barn dances and folk evenings in the Coventry and Warwickshire area
See: http://www.barndance.org.uk

Posted by rpseguin on February 29, 2008, 3:39 pm
>
> > Aluminum got a bad name because they tried to use it in small sizes in
> > residential, with the wrong devices, along with labor that was clueless
> > about proper techniques. We made a lot of money fixing jobs done wrong
> > in aluminum, and I have never seen a properly done aluminum job fail.
>
> I seem to remember using some sort of yellow paste where it was joined to
> other metals to prevent corrosion - Unial?


As for my sub-panel and 3 phase panel things, I've just ordered a 500'
spool of #1 aluminum wire. It is _WAY_ less expensive than copper. I
will be certain to read up and make certain that I bond everything
correctly, use anti-corrosion goo and make certain all connections
are torqued down properly. The RPC and all of the machine loads will
be made using some copper THHN that I already have.

I've acquired a Cutler Hammer 3BR1224L125 125 amp 3 phase circuit
breaker load center panel and now I need to find some CH BR3xx plug/
stab-in breakers. 3 pole breakers are pricey new!
Anybody have some Cutler Hammer compatible breakers like these:
BR360
BR350
BR340
BR330
BR320
BR315
BR310

Thanks!

Posted by PrecisioNmachinisT on February 29, 2008, 8:49 pm


<snip>

> stab-in breakers. 3 pole breakers are pricey new!
> Anybody have some Cutler Hammer compatible breakers like these:
> BR360
> BR350
> BR340
> BR330
> BR320
> BR315
> BR310

Suggest try Ebay...

--





Posted by Gary H. Lucas on February 29, 2008, 9:48 pm

>>
>> > Aluminum got a bad name because they tried to use it in small sizes in
>> > residential, with the wrong devices, along with labor that was clueless
>> > about proper techniques. We made a lot of money fixing jobs done wrong
>> > in aluminum, and I have never seen a properly done aluminum job fail.
>>
>> I seem to remember using some sort of yellow paste where it was joined to
>> other metals to prevent corrosion - Unial?
>
>
> As for my sub-panel and 3 phase panel things, I've just ordered a 500'
> spool of #1 aluminum wire. It is _WAY_ less expensive than copper. I
> will be certain to read up and make certain that I bond everything
> correctly, use anti-corrosion goo and make certain all connections
> are torqued down properly. The RPC and all of the machine loads will
> be made using some copper THHN that I already have.
>
> I've acquired a Cutler Hammer 3BR1224L125 125 amp 3 phase circuit
> breaker load center panel and now I need to find some CH BR3xx plug/
> stab-in breakers. 3 pole breakers are pricey new!
> Anybody have some Cutler Hammer compatible breakers like these:
> BR360
> BR350
> BR340
> BR330
> BR320
> BR315
> BR310
>
> Thanks!

Here's how to do the aluminum connections. First, do NOT nick the strands
when stripping the insulation! The nicked strands break right off. Second,
wire brush the bare wire with a stainless wirebrush. Aluminum oxide, unlike
copper oxide is one of the best insulators known. Third, use an antioxidant
compound, Penetrox is the brand we used to use. It is conductive, so don't
get it on the insulation. Fourth, tighten the setscrews firmly. Fifth, and
VERY important, tighten the setscrews again the next day. Aluminum creeps,
and they will often be loose by the next day. Pretty stable after that, but
checking once a year or so is just smart. Finally, aluminum connections
come loose if they are overloaded, because the aluminum expands a lot and
squeezes out like toothpaste. So don't be a cheap ass and overload it, use
the right size.

Gary H. Lucas



Page 5 of 5       << first < 1 2 3
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