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Rotozip: goodgawd... Proctologically Violated©® 04-09-2007
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Posted by Proctologically Violated©® on April 10, 2007, 12:56 pm


I shoulda quit while I was ahead.... :)

Yeah, but still the templates that are provided with the boxes themselves
are *not* router-type templates, cuz you need some sort of offset for
whatever the dimensional particulars of the tool at are.
And I'm talking a hard masonite-type template, not a paper template.

I've already conceded the utility of the zip for sheetrock, and a few other
specific tasks mentioned.
It is, essentially, a Dremel with muscle. Which can indeed be useful.

But not as infomercialed, with that 10:1 inflation ratio, volume and
otherwise.

And, try keeping track of all those bitty parts/pieces. I'm already missing
a bunch.

Inyone got a spare 1/4" collet--and the wrench? :)

Also, think of the original Circle marker: center nail, string, and chalk.
Butta-Bing, perfect circle.
You can use the same technique with the zip, with very accurate results.
And likely more conveniently.
The only downside with the string is that the zip will not be automatically
perpendicular to the 'rock, you must do that by eye/hand.
But given the non-critical nature of this aspect of the cut--roundness of
the circle is much more important--a string'n'nail ditty might be more
useful, overall.
But true, the circle cutting is useful, regardless of how you execute it.
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs

>
>> Instead of all that crap, how bout a *usable* circle cutter, and
>> router-like TEMPLATES, dudes, for typical drywall cutouts--4,6" lighting
>> cutouts, 2x4, 4x4 boxes, octagonals, etc. In fact, a templete for
>> lighting cutouts would obviate the circle cutter, in large measure--uh
>> oh....
>> Nowhere, in the morass of of disjointed (and imo insulting) papers is
>> there even a mention of templates, that I could readily find.
>
> See, now, PV? You've attacked the tool (for the purpose for which it was
> intended) because you don't understand the job.
>
> You don't need any templates in the kit. You _have_ templates of every
> box you'll ever cut out _IN_the_house_ at the time of the job. A new set
> of templates comes with every drywall job; they're called "outlet boxes".
>
> The purpose of the RZ is to follow the exact shape of whatever's hiding
> behind the rock, and cut a perfect hole exactly the right shape and size
> for proper finishing of the wall. And it does that faster than you can
> think, and it does it well.
>
> Their circle cutter IS very usable -- in fact a pure joy to use. At
> least the version that comes with the bottom-of-the-line kit is. I hung a
> few dozen recessed fixtures for which there were no outlet boxes flush
> with the ceiling. It took about an hour to mark out all the centers, and
> about an hour to cut all the 5-1/4" holes.
>
>
>
> LLoyd
>
>




Radiant Heat 468x60
Posted by Chris Friesen on April 10, 2007, 1:09 pm


Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
> I shoulda quit while I was ahead.... :)
>
> Yeah, but still the templates that are provided with the boxes themselves
> are *not* router-type templates, cuz you need some sort of offset for
> whatever the dimensional particulars of the tool at are.
> And I'm talking a hard masonite-type template, not a paper template.

You still aren't getting it.

1) Hang the sheet of drywall up on the wall with a few screws.
2) Punch the rotozip through the drywall anywhere inside the outlet box.
3) Cut to the edge of the box, then lift the bit out just enough to
"hop" over the wall of the outlet box (so the bit is on the outside of
the box).
4) Cut around the outside of the box with pressure inward towards the
box. The smooth portion at the tip of the bit follows the outlet box
without chewing it up, while the toothed portion cuts the drywall.
5) Put in the rest of the screws.

No predrawing, no separate template. At most you might need to mark the
rough position of the box to within an inch or so.

Chris

Posted by Proctologically Violated©® on April 10, 2007, 1:14 pm


> Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
>> I shoulda quit while I was ahead.... :)
>>
>> Yeah, but still the templates that are provided with the boxes themselves
>> are *not* router-type templates, cuz you need some sort of offset for
>> whatever the dimensional particulars of the tool at are.
>> And I'm talking a hard masonite-type template, not a paper template.
>
> You still aren't getting it.
>
> 1) Hang the sheet of drywall up on the wall with a few screws.
> 2) Punch the rotozip through the drywall anywhere inside the outlet box.
> 3) Cut to the edge of the box, then lift the bit out just enough to "hop"
> over the wall of the outlet box (so the bit is on the outside of the box).
> 4) Cut around the outside of the box with pressure inward towards the box.
> The smooth portion at the tip of the bit follows the outlet box without
> chewing it up, while the toothed portion cuts the drywall.
> 5) Put in the rest of the screws.
>
> No predrawing, no separate template. At most you might need to mark the
> rough position of the box to within an inch or so.

Just imagine how long it took me to learn the Fadal. :)
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs



>
> Chris
>




Posted by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh on April 10, 2007, 1:15 pm



>I shoulda quit while I was ahead.... :)
>
> Yeah, but still the templates that are provided with the boxes themselves
> are *not* router-type templates, cuz you need some sort of offset for
> whatever the dimensional particulars of the tool at are.
> And I'm talking a hard masonite-type template, not a paper template.

No, NO! NO! NNNNOOOOOOO!

You don't get it. You've never used the tool. I daresay you've never done
any drywalling.

I didn't say "templates provided _with_ the boxes". I said, "The templates
ARE the boxes."

The RZ tool was designed to easily: First, FIND the edge of a box from its
inside, then Second, JUMP the edge to the outside surface of the box, then
Third, ROUTE around the box, using the box itself as the "template".

The "offset" is provided by the tool automatically to be 1/8", which is
perfect for drywall work.

It takes roughly ten seconds (for me) to plunge the bit into the box, zip to
the edge, jump the edge, zip around the whole box. And I'm sloooowwwwww...

LLoyd


Posted by ATP* on April 11, 2007, 9:37 pm



>
>>I shoulda quit while I was ahead.... :)
>>
>> Yeah, but still the templates that are provided with the boxes themselves
>> are *not* router-type templates, cuz you need some sort of offset for
>> whatever the dimensional particulars of the tool at are.
>> And I'm talking a hard masonite-type template, not a paper template.
>
> No, NO! NO! NNNNOOOOOOO!
>
> You don't get it. You've never used the tool. I daresay you've never
> done any drywalling.
>
> I didn't say "templates provided _with_ the boxes". I said, "The
> templates ARE the boxes."
>
> The RZ tool was designed to easily: First, FIND the edge of a box from its
> inside, then Second, JUMP the edge to the outside surface of the box, then
> Third, ROUTE around the box, using the box itself as the "template".
>
> The "offset" is provided by the tool automatically to be 1/8", which is
> perfect for drywall work.
>
> It takes roughly ten seconds (for me) to plunge the bit into the box, zip
> to the edge, jump the edge, zip around the whole box. And I'm
> sloooowwwwww...
>
> LLoyd

Personally, I don't think the hurricane of sheetrock dust is worth it. Most
drywall contractors I've seen still use a keyhole saw.



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