Rotting Window Frames - Page 6

> On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:58:48 -0800 (PST), Peter H
> -snip-
> >We've bought a 22 year-old house in the greater Toronto area. The
> >window frames on the western side of the house are beginning to rot
> -snip-
> >I'm wondering if there isn't some way to save the windows, or at least
> >delay the work. The windows are thermapane (sp?) and the seals are all
> >still good.
> >Could we not have the frames injected with a resin or something and
> >then seal them. It seems such a waste to trash the whole set of
> >windows because of this problem... not to mention the expense.
> first you need to find out why they only lasted 22 years. =A0 Once
> that's fixed, I love this stuff;http://www.rotdoctor.com/
> It is expensive, and not that easy to use-- but given all the things
> that replacing otherwise good windows entails, it is probably a good
> idea.
> I fixed the bottom of my garage door with it 10[?] years ago & there
> is no sign of rot returning. =A0 =A0
> Jim

> We've bought a 22 year-old house in the greater Toronto area. The
> window frames on the western side of the house are beginning to rot . . .
> Could we not have the frames injected with a resin or something and
> then seal them. It seems such a waste to trash the whole set of
> windows because of this problem... not to mention the expense.

> I hope that someone from the excellent group can help me with this
> one.
>
> We've bought a 22 year-old house in the greater Toronto area. The
> window frames on the western side of the house are beginning to rot
> out. We had a home inspection done and the inspector suggested that
> the windows should be replaced next year or the year after at the very
> latest.
>
> I'm wondering if there isn't some way to save the windows, or at least
> delay the work. The windows are thermapane (sp?) and the seals are all
> still good.
>
> Could we not have the frames injected with a resin or something and
> then seal them. It seems such a waste to trash the whole set of
> windows because of this problem... not to mention the expense.
>
> Thanks for all replies.
>
> Peter H

> I hope that someone from the excellent group can help me with this
> one.
> We've bought a 22 year-old house in the greater Toronto area. The
> window frames on the western side of the house are beginning to rot
> out. We had a home inspection done and the inspector suggested that
> the windows should be replaced next year or the year after at the very
> latest.
> I'm wondering if there isn't some way to save the windows, or at least
> delay the work. The windows are thermapane (sp?) and the seals are all
> still good.
> Could we not have the frames injected with a resin or something and
> then seal them. It seems such a waste to trash the whole set of
> windows because of this problem... not to mention the expense.
> Thanks for all replies.
> Peter H

> > I hope that someone from the excellent group can help me with this
> > one.
> > We've bought a 22 year-old house in the greater Toronto area. The
> > window frames on the western side of the house are beginning to rot
> > out. We had a home inspection done and the inspector suggested that
> > the windows should be replaced next year or the year after at the very
> > latest.
> > I'm wondering if there isn't some way to save the windows, or at least
> > delay the work. The windows are thermapane (sp?) and the seals are all
> > still good.
> > Could we not have the frames injected with a resin or something and
> > then seal them. It seems such a waste to trash the whole set of
> > windows because of this problem... not to mention the expense.
> > Thanks for all replies.
> > Peter H
> Peter-
> I have done extensive epoxy repair on my 1930's home in SoCal. =A0 A
> fair number of the the sills (redwood) =A0& sash frames (missing glazing
> compound) were neglected for quite awhile before I got to them.
> The redwood sills were badly weathered & eroded but no rot (clear old
> growth heart wood).
> Only one sash (both lower corners were "gone") was rotted. =A0None of
> the window framing was rotted.
> The suggestions about using epoxy products are good ones. =A0 I used
> (1987) Bondo on two window sills (redwood) with VERY POOR results.
> A call to Bono's tech support line got the following response =A0"while
> we recommend the use of Bondo for wood repair, we don't recommend its
> use on redwood".
> I switched towww.abatron.comwood repair products; =A0LiquidWood &
> WoodEpox. =A0 The stuff ain't cheap but it really works & really lasts!
> Repairs that I did in 1987 just need to be sanded & repainted. =A0East
> facing sills especially.
> I was burned so badly by my Bondo experience and the epoxy I used
> preformed so well.
> I never gave any Bondo products another shot at exterior wood repair
> on any of my work. =A0Luckily it only screwed up two window sills.
> In the latest "go 'round' (2006) =A0 I rebuilt the lower corners of a
> rotted window sash. =A0I embedded SS all thread (www.mcmaster.com) in
> the sound wood, jigged up the sash and rebuilt the corners. =A0Like
> icing a cake. =A0 When cured, I shaped & sanded it. =A0Perfect result.
> BUT =A0if I had had a number of sashes to do, I might have set up & done
> a a wood repair or just bought or built new sashes. =A0For a single sash
> it "may" have made sense to do the epoxy repair.
> that's all about the repair side....but why do you have the rot?
> Paint failure? =A0Water intrusion? =A0Bad window material?
> My sashes are nearly 80 years old...yellow pine? maybe? =A0The =A0only ro=
> I've experienced is due to my lack of proper maint but SoCal aint
> Toronto.
> Per other posts.....window / =A0sill repair via epoxies is a LOT of
> work.
> I learned my lesson.....keep windows & sills properly painted.
> At the first sign of paint film failure, sand them & give them a
> another coat.
> Paint needs to be sound to protect the wood.
> cheers
> Bob- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -