Home Page link

Sanding trim

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 1 of 6       1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Sanding trim jeffc 07-03-2007
  |--> Re: Sanding trim Edwin Pawlowski07-07-2007
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by jeffc on July 3, 2007, 10:03 pm
It was recommended I sand poly interior trim before painting white. If it's
not flat (i.e. it's typical nook-and-cranny cross section, like most trim
nowadays), how do you go about sanding it?



Real Goods Solar, Inc.
Posted by RicodJour on July 3, 2007, 10:46 pm
> It was recommended I sand poly interior trim before painting white. If it's
> not flat (i.e. it's typical nook-and-cranny cross section, like most trim
> nowadays), how do you go about sanding it?

You should clean the trim to be painted before sanding to make sure
there's no grease or oils that will cause problems with the finish.
Wrap sandpaper around a suitably sized dowel or pencil to sand the
rounded parts, and fold the paper to sand into the sharp corners.
Other than that it's business as usual. You're just scuffing up the
surface to give the paint primer something to bite onto. Use a primer
with high adherence like Benjamin Moore's Fresh start.

You could use a liquid deglosser (aka liquid sandpaper) that is a
really nasty chemical cocktail that will soften the poly and give it
some tooth for the primer. It will also take care of the cleaning
step at the same time. It's nasty stuff so wear a respirator.
http://www.cornerhardware.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7632

R


Posted by Norminn on July 4, 2007, 7:08 am
RicodJour wrote:
>
>>It was recommended I sand poly interior trim before painting white. If it's
>>not flat (i.e. it's typical nook-and-cranny cross section, like most trim
>>nowadays), how do you go about sanding it?
>
>
> You should clean the trim to be painted before sanding to make sure
> there's no grease or oils that will cause problems with the finish.
> Wrap sandpaper around a suitably sized dowel or pencil to sand the
> rounded parts, and fold the paper to sand into the sharp corners.
> Other than that it's business as usual. You're just scuffing up the
> surface to give the paint primer something to bite onto. Use a primer
> with high adherence like Benjamin Moore's Fresh start.
>
> You could use a liquid deglosser (aka liquid sandpaper) that is a
> really nasty chemical cocktail that will soften the poly and give it
> some tooth for the primer. It will also take care of the cleaning
> step at the same time. It's nasty stuff so wear a respirator.
> http://www.cornerhardware.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7632
>
> R
>
Good advice. I've repainted after bad paint jobs done by other people
and find that issue #1 is absolute cleanliness. Gloss is less of a
problem than greasy dirt and fingerprints. Clean it well with your
favorite household cleaner, wipe with denatured alcohol. I use only
alkyd semi for trim, but it has issues with yellowing nowadays. Latex
is crap for trim, especially when time to repaint. It may not yellow as
quickly as alkyd but stains more easily.

Posted by dpb on July 4, 2007, 10:18 am
Norminn wrote:
...
> alkyd semi for trim, but it has issues with yellowing nowadays. Latex
> is crap for trim, especially when time to repaint. It may not yellow as
> quickly as alkyd but stains more easily.

I disagree w/ both points, personally. Colors are more stable than ever
imo, and a good latex enamel in semi- or gloss finish won't stain badly
at all. A flat will because of the rougher texture, but flat shouldn't
be used for trim, anyway.

imo, etc., etc., ...

--

Posted by Norminn on July 4, 2007, 9:32 pm
dpb wrote:
> Norminn wrote:
> ...
>
>> alkyd semi for trim, but it has issues with yellowing nowadays. Latex
>> is crap for trim, especially when time to repaint. It may not yellow
>> as quickly as alkyd but stains more easily.
>
>
> I disagree w/ both points, personally. Colors are more stable than ever
> imo, and a good latex enamel in semi- or gloss finish won't stain badly
> at all. A flat will because of the rougher texture, but flat shouldn't
> be used for trim, anyway.
>
> imo, etc., etc., ...
>
> --
Flat paint holds dirt more because of the texture. I was referring to
latex semi, which is smoothe. In my experience, it stains (permanently)
from ink, lipstick, and other oily stuff. It is also lousy to sand when
one wants to repaint, and trim around busy doorways usually has dings to
sand out.

Page 1 of 6       1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
Sanding Question August 6, 2005, 3:04 am
concrete sanding October 24, 2005, 1:39 pm
Wet-sanding plaster February 20, 2006, 4:12 pm
Concrete sanding January 27, 2007, 2:18 am
What's "scuff sanding"? June 22, 2007, 4:38 pm
Deck Sanding July 2, 2008, 8:41 pm
Odd size sanding belts March 10, 2006, 1:28 pm
Sanding a Cedar Deck July 18, 2006, 11:42 pm
sanding dust removal? January 22, 2007, 1:21 pm
Re: Sanding a Gyprock Ceiling April 24, 2007, 9:17 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap