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Sawzall or ? to cut thru old-style "plaster" Puddin' Man 12-17-2006
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Posted by Puddin' Man on December 17, 2006, 1:49 pm




'allo,

I belong to a little brick bungalow in the midwest, built in
'54, old-style plaster on steel mesh lath.

Recently found that kitchen and both drain pipes were sealed
behind wall. Had to bust thru kitchen wall (tile and plaster)
to replace drain pipe.

I found that the "plaster" was more the consistency and hardness
of concrete than any plaster I seen before ...

The bath drain is overdue to roll over and die. The drain is
in a partition wall opposite a bedroom closet. To gain
access, I'd likely need to cut a large section of the
closet wall out.

It's actually strange I've never bought a sawzall, but
I've always got along with a little scroll-jig saw. Have
built partition walls but never needed to rip thru old
walls, chop thru roof, etc.

Anybody familiar with cutting the old style plaster?

Q1: Can I do it with a sawzall? If so what blade? Recall
this "plaster" looks more like flogging concrete.

Q2: If Q1 = yes, would an 8 amp sawzall likely be adequate?

Q3: If Q1 = no, what should I use? Used a hammer/cold-chisel
on the kitchen and it was a SEVERE PITA!

Any/all info/advice much appreciated.

Cheers,
Puddin'

Pease pudding hot,
Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot
Nine days old ...

PexSupply QuikTrak 468x60
Posted by Doug Miller on December 17, 2006, 2:04 pm


Gmail Dot Com wrote:
>
>Anybody familiar with cutting the old style plaster?

Much more familiar than I wish...
>
>Q1: Can I do it with a sawzall? If so what blade? Recall
> this "plaster" looks more like flogging concrete.

You *can* -- but it's going to make a hell of a mess, and you're going to go
through a lot of blades. Not to mention shortening the lifespan of the tool,
if the dust gets into the bearings or motor (it's very abrasive).
>
>Q2: If Q1 = yes, would an 8 amp sawzall likely be adequate?

Yes.
>
>Q3: If Q1 = no, what should I use? Used a hammer/cold-chisel
> on the kitchen and it was a SEVERE PITA!

Well, that's what I was going to suggest: hammer and chisel to go through the
plaster, then a sawzall to cut the metal lath.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Posted by Puddin' Man on December 17, 2006, 3:07 pm


On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 19:04:40 GMT, spambait@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

Gmail Dot Com wrote:
>>
>>Anybody familiar with cutting the old style plaster?
>
>Much more familiar than I wish...
>>
>>Q1: Can I do it with a sawzall? If so what blade? Recall
>> this "plaster" looks more like flogging concrete.
>
>You *can* -- but it's going to make a hell of a mess, and you're going to go
>through a lot of blades. Not to mention shortening the lifespan of the tool,
>if the dust gets into the bearings or motor (it's very abrasive).
>>
>>Q2: If Q1 = yes, would an 8 amp sawzall likely be adequate?
>
>Yes.
>>
>>Q3: If Q1 = no, what should I use? Used a hammer/cold-chisel
>> on the kitchen and it was a SEVERE PITA!
>
>Well, that's what I was going to suggest: hammer and chisel to go through the
>plaster, then a sawzall to cut the metal lath.

I am now thinking maybe:

1.) Lay it out carefully with pen/marker (might be 9 sq. feet).
2.) Hammer drill with 1/4 or 5/16 " percussion bit every inch or less.
3.) Hammer and cold-chisel to detach "plaster".
4.) Recip saw to go thru steel mesh.

Is viable? I hate to knock huge jagged edges in the "plaster"
which does not break predictably with hammer/chisel.

Thanks,
P

Pease pudding hot,
Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot
Nine days old ...

Posted by Don Phillipson on December 17, 2006, 4:32 pm



> 1.) Lay it out carefully with pen/marker (might be 9 sq. feet).
> 2.) Hammer drill with 1/4 or 5/16 " percussion bit every inch or less.
> 3.) Hammer and cold-chisel to detach "plaster".
> 4.) Recip saw to go thru steel mesh.

For cutting metal (#4) would not a rotating
disc cutter be more controllable than a recip. saw?
(Also convenient for making little dints to get
the chisel started.)
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)



Posted by Doug Miller on December 18, 2006, 9:01 am


pudding.man@gmail.com says...
>.
>
> I am now thinking maybe:
>
> 1.) Lay it out carefully with pen/marker (might be 9 sq. feet).
> 2.) Hammer drill with 1/4 or 5/16 " percussion bit every inch or less.
> 3.) Hammer and cold-chisel to detach "plaster".
> 4.) Recip saw to go thru steel mesh.
>
> Is viable? I hate to knock huge jagged edges in the "plaster"
> which does not break predictably with hammer/chisel.

Could be -- but it's still going to make a hell of a mess. I still say
use a hammer and chisel to remove the plaster. If you're having problems
with the plaster not breaking predictably, I'd say that's probably due
to your technique. Don't try to chisel all the way through it in a
single blow. Instead, score it lightly all the way around, just deep
enough to get through the whitecoat. Then score it again, harder, about
half-way through the browncoat. Finally, chisel all the way through the
browncoat.

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