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Screw Extractor - how to? MiamiCuse 06-22-2007
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Posted by MiamiCuse on June 22, 2007, 7:39 pm
I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.

So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.

I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the screw
stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into the
hole, turned again and same result.

I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw but
it didn't.

So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or this
is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.

Any idea what I should do?

MC



Posted by Joe on June 22, 2007, 8:12 pm
> I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
> since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
> cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.
>
> So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
> the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.
>
> I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
> other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
> turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the screw
> stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into the
> hole, turned again and same result.
>
> I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw but
> it didn't.
>
> So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or this
> is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.
>
> Any idea what I should do?
>
> MC

Get an impact driver kit like Harbor Freight #93481-1VGA. A couple of
hammer whacks ought to get the screw started out. Regarding Kobalt
tools, they are not bad.but not in the same league as Craftsman hand
tools (most of them Americam made) and definitely not at all like
SnapOn, Matco or Mac. The latter three have screw extractors that
actually work, but even these require a skill level well past most DIY
weekend warriors. The biggest problem is that the spud that works to
grab the screw can break since it has to be hard enough to bite into
the screw, and the hardening also makes it brittle. Thus, too much
force leaves you with the screw still tight but now containing a bit
of really hard broken steel. HTH

Joe


Posted by RicodJour on June 22, 2007, 8:31 pm
> I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
> since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
> cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.
>
> So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
> the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.
>
> I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
> other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
> turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the screw
> stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into the
> hole, turned again and same result.
>
> I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw but
> it didn't.
>
> So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or this
> is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.
>
> Any idea what I should do?

You didn't say what material the screw is, what the screw is screwed
into, the size of the screw, whether the screw is corroded in place,
etc. The more information, the better the answer.

If the screw is really seized up in there, and the screw is made of
softer metal, you're probably out of luck. If the screw is into metal
try hitting it with some penetrating oil and letting it soak
overnight, then try again.

Drilling deeper? I don't know, how deep did you drill?

R


Posted by MiamiCuse on June 23, 2007, 3:06 am

>> I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
>> since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
>> cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.
>>
>> So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
>> the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.
>>
>> I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
>> other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
>> turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the
>> screw
>> stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into
>> the
>> hole, turned again and same result.
>>
>> I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw
>> but
>> it didn't.
>>
>> So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or
>> this
>> is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.
>>
>> Any idea what I should do?
>
> You didn't say what material the screw is, what the screw is screwed
> into, the size of the screw, whether the screw is corroded in place,
> etc. The more information, the better the answer.
>
> If the screw is really seized up in there, and the screw is made of
> softer metal, you're probably out of luck. If the screw is into metal
> try hitting it with some penetrating oil and letting it soak
> overnight, then try again.
>
> Drilling deeper? I don't know, how deep did you drill?
>
> R
>

The screw is a machine screw - metal to metal. Size is 10-32. I drilled
about 1/4" deepthe entire screw is only about 1/2" deep. It's brass.

Tried with lubricant already and didn't work.

Thanks,

MC



Posted by RicodJour on June 23, 2007, 9:29 am
>
>
>
>
> >> I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
> >> since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
> >> cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.
>
> >> So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
> >> the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.
>
> >> I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
> >> other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
> >> turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the
> >> screw
> >> stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into
> >> the
> >> hole, turned again and same result.
>
> >> I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw
> >> but
> >> it didn't.
>
> >> So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or
> >> this
> >> is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.
>
> >> Any idea what I should do?
>
> > You didn't say what material the screw is, what the screw is screwed
> > into, the size of the screw, whether the screw is corroded in place,
> > etc. The more information, the better the answer.
>
> > If the screw is really seized up in there, and the screw is made of
> > softer metal, you're probably out of luck. If the screw is into metal
> > try hitting it with some penetrating oil and letting it soak
> > overnight, then try again.
>
> > Drilling deeper? I don't know, how deep did you drill?
>
>
> The screw is a machine screw - metal to metal. Size is 10-32. I drilled
> about 1/4" deepthe entire screw is only about 1/2" deep. It's brass.
>
> Tried with lubricant already and didn't work.

Drill it out and re-tap. Not much choice in the matter. You may have
to bump up one screw size.

R



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