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Screw Extractor - how to?

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Screw Extractor - how to? MiamiCuse 06-22-2007
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Posted by Joseph Meehan on June 22, 2007, 9:04 pm
MiamiCuse wrote:
> I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out,
> and since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the
> surface so cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not
> practical.
> So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor.

Well it does depend on the size of the screw, but I would think that ¼
inch is not far enough. I would suggest almost as far as the treaded
portion of the easyout.


> I bought
> one at the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.
>
> I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took
> the other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the
> hole and turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab
> turned but the screw stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped
> the plug tab deeper into the hole, turned again and same result.
>
> I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the
> screw but it didn't.
>
> So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or
> this is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.
>
> Any idea what I should do?
>
> MC

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit




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Posted by mm on June 22, 2007, 10:40 pm
On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 19:39:23 -0400, "MiamiCuse"

>I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
>since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
>cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.
>
>So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
>the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.
>
>I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
>other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
>turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the screw
>stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into the
>hole, turned again and same result.
>
>I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw but
>it didn't.
>
>So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or this
>is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.
>
>Any idea what I should do?

Mr. Cuse, you've been here long enough to know to give all the
details. Is this a screw in wood or metal? :)

Personally, I own nothing but crap screw extractors (4 for a dollar)
and I've never gotten them to work, partly because most of the screws
involved were too small even for the smallest extractor, but partly
because they don't bite, I think.

I've found the most success with left handed drill bits, in a drill
that runs CCW. There are only two sources of these bits, Vermont
American are not so expensive in the smaller two sizes, but iirc onely
has them and a third size. Harbor Freight has a set of four for
definitely cheap, even at full price. I think when I first saw them
they were half price, so that was even cheaper. I have used the HF
drills zero or one time, and so far so good.

The advantage, especially in wood, is that one can use a small size
that won't enlarge the hole, and the constant CCW spinning might also
unscrew the screw. If not, one can switch to bigger bit that will
drill out all but a trace of the threads, and then the screw almost
certainly comes out.
>
>MC
>


Posted by on June 22, 2007, 11:41 pm
It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.



Posted by on June 22, 2007, 11:45 pm
On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, tnom@mucks.net wrote:

>It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill at
>an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
>straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all the
>way through.
>
>If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until smoke
>shows the loctite burning.
>
>When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool grab.
>This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.
>
>If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
>you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.
>
>If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
>directions.

Best thread insert : Gardserts

http://www.gardspecialists.com/

Posted by on June 23, 2007, 11:22 am
On Jun 22, 10:45 pm, t...@mucks.net wrote:
> On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, t...@mucks.net wrote:
> >It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill at
> >an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
> >straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all the
> >way through.
>
> >If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until smoke
> >shows the loctite burning.
>
> >When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool grab.
> >This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.
>
> >If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
> >you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.
>
> >If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
> >directions.
>
> Best thread insert : Gardserts
>
> http://www.gardspecialists.com/- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


I've can't imagine how you could use a screw extractor on a 10-32
screw to begin with. I've never seen one that's small enough to be
used on a screw that small.


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