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Posted by MiamiCuse on July 4, 2007, 12:04 pm
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > > On Jun 23, 8:22 am, trad...@optonline.net wrote:
>> > >> On Jun 22, 10:45 pm, t...@mucks.net wrote:
>>
>> > >> > On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, t...@mucks.net wrote:
>> > >> > >It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the
>> > >> > >drill at
>> > >> > >an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
>> > >> > >straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all
>> > >> > >the
>> > >> > >way through.
>>
>> > >> > >If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until
>> > >> > >smoke
>> > >> > >shows the loctite burning.
>>
>> > >> > >When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool
>> > >> > >grab.
>> > >> > >This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.
>>
>> > >> > >If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long
>> > >> > >as
>> > >> > >you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.
>>
>> > >> > >If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
>> > >> > >directions.
>>
>> > >> > Best thread insert : Gardserts
>>
>> > >> >http://www.gardspecialists.com/-Hidequotedtext -
>>
>> > >> > - Show quoted text -
>>
>> > >> I've can't imagine how you could use a screw extractor on a 10-32
>> > >> screw to begin with. I've never seen one that's small enough to be
>> > >> used on a screw that small.
>>
>> > > I've used screw extractors on screws as small as #6's.....but its
>> > > usually a 50-50 success rate even on the bigger ones.
>>
>> > > IMO you need good quality extractors...I have a set of Hanson's that
>> > > has extractors for even smaller screws.
>>
>> > >http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html
>>
>> > > The trick is to drill down the centerline of the screw, drill the
>> > > right size hole......too big & the screw extractor tends to expand
>> > > the
>> > > screw & lock in the hole....too small & you won't get a good bite on
>> > > the screw
>>
>> > > a brass screw is pretty soft so the extractor might chew it up rather
>> > > than bite & extract.
>>
>> > > MC, if you've got through hole you might be able to drill with
>> > > successively bigger drill until on the threads of the screw are left
>> > > &
>> > > then you can pick at the screw & maybe unwind the thread.
>>
>> > > If the hole's not too badly messed up you might be able to chase the
>> > > threads & re-use the hole as is...otherwise bump up to the next size
>> > > (#12) or do a hole repair with a Heli-coil
>>
>> > > cheers
>> > > Bob
>>
>> > Thanks Bob. I have drilled it all the way through and inserted the
>> > screw
>> > extractor and no good it won't bite. I then took a dremel with a cut
>> > off
>> > wheel to cut a deeper slot and tried again - it turned ... but bad
>> > news, the
>> > screw head came off and the rest of the screw is still inside the hole
>> > and
>> > none of it is protruding from the hole for me to get with a plier.
>>
>> > So now I have a short screw inside the hole, I guess I need to use a
>> > bigger
>> > drill bit but I think more than likely I will damage the thread of the
>> > hole
>> > since I don't trust myself to be able to drill totally straight and
>> > centered. I have about 7 screws that are refusing to be extracted out
>> > of
>> > 16.
>>
>> > MC
>>
>> Did you read my earlier post? I know from years doing mechanical work
>> that stubborn screws can be easily removed with an IMPACT DRIVER (not
>> an air impact wrench). This is a simple tool that works with another
>> simple tool, a hammer. Nearly 99% of professional mechanics will have
>> one in their toolbox, but the general public and every one of your
>> post responders seems to be blissfully unaware of this essential and
>> low cost device. For under $10 you can likely solve your problem, $15
>> if you need a hammer, and if it doesn't work due to corrosion or some
>> other mechanical mishap you can then do a drill out and Helicoil
>> routine knowing that the situation was hopeless to begin with. Good
>> luck.
>>
>> Joe
>
> Joe-
>
> Just because some of us didn't suggest an impact driver doesn't mean
> we don't know of their existence or their usefulness. .... I have one
> but don't think it is the solution in this situation. Of couse I'm
> not standing next to the screws in question..
>
> Brass screw, 10-32
>
> IMO doesn't seem like a good candidate for the impact driver
> treatment.....................
>
> MC-
>
> Failing screw extraction I'd opt for successive drilling...if the hole
> material is steel, it will tend to keep the drill drilling in the
> brass (softer material) You can drill up close to the screw minor
> diameter & then "pick" the remaining thread out.
>
> Even a damaged threaded hole has some decent holding ability..... a
> 10-32 brass screw needs only about four good threads if the hole is
> steel, 6 threads if the hole is brass.
>
> A 1/2" of thread (16 threads) for a 10-32 is a bit much.....you could
> have a fair amount of those threads damaged & still secure a brass
> screw
>
>
> cheers
> Bob
>
>
Bob thank you very much for this advise. I finally tried what you suggested
to drill it successively with larger sizes. I was prepared to completely
ruining the thread. I tried one smaller size drill bit and drilled all the
way through, then inserted a replacement screw, it actually went into the
thread and turned one revolution! So I tried a bigger drill bit and drilled
again, slowly and steadily, and afterwards I tried the screw again and it
went in, with slight resistance but the threads are fine! I have to pick
out the pile of metal collected at the bottom of the hole but the original
threads are still good. Thanks again!
MC
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