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Subject Author Date
Screw Gun Problem Greg Esres 02-07-2007
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Posted by Greg Esres on February 7, 2007, 2:49 pm


<<You mean to tell me that when the drill encounters the progressively
greater
resistance and the clutch kicks out, that both screws will have been
driven
to equal depth?
>>

Since the clutch disengages based on the length of extension, and not
torque, yes.


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Posted by Steve B on February 7, 2007, 4:21 pm



> <<You mean to tell me that when the drill encounters the progressively
> greater
> resistance and the clutch kicks out, that both screws will have been
> driven
> to equal depth?
>>>
>
> Since the clutch disengages based on the length of extension, and not
> torque, yes.
>

We must be talking about different clutches, then. I'm talking to the one
between the chuck and the motor.

Steve



Posted by krw on February 7, 2007, 4:27 pm


says...
>
>
> > I just spoke to the manager of the maintenance facility. Conclusions:
> >
> > 1) Torque plays no role in the clutch disengaging. Depth-based only.
>
>
> Say what?
>
> You got a piece of very soft pine, and a piece of oak. You take a 3"
> Robertson deck screw. (I use Robertson because it assumes the square head
> will stay engaged.)

Robertson head on a drywall screw? <snigger>

> You set the clutch at four on a scale of one low, ten high.

This thread is about drywall screwguns.

> You mean to tell me that when the drill encounters the progressively greater
> resistance and the clutch kicks out, that both screws will have been driven
> to equal depth?

Have you ever used a drywall screwgun? The clutch disengages as
the nose of the gun dimples the paper. A torque-based clutch
couldn't possibly work because of the differences in stud density.
>
> I don't think so, Tim.

I know so, Al.

--
Keith

Posted by Steve B on February 7, 2007, 5:46 pm



> says...
>>
>>
>> > I just spoke to the manager of the maintenance facility. Conclusions:
>> >
>> > 1) Torque plays no role in the clutch disengaging. Depth-based only.
>>
>>
>> Say what?
>>
>> You got a piece of very soft pine, and a piece of oak. You take a 3"
>> Robertson deck screw. (I use Robertson because it assumes the square
>> head
>> will stay engaged.)
>
> Robertson head on a drywall screw? <snigger>
>
>> You set the clutch at four on a scale of one low, ten high.
>
> This thread is about drywall screwguns.
>
>> You mean to tell me that when the drill encounters the progressively
>> greater
>> resistance and the clutch kicks out, that both screws will have been
>> driven
>> to equal depth?
>
> Have you ever used a drywall screwgun? The clutch disengages as
> the nose of the gun dimples the paper. A torque-based clutch
> couldn't possibly work because of the differences in stud density.
>>
>> I don't think so, Tim.
>
> I know so, Al.
>
> --
> Keith

duh

never mind.

Steve



Posted by DT on February 7, 2007, 6:42 pm



>4) Where I'm going wrong is probably not putting enough pressure on
>the device so that the nosecone puts a dimple into the wall. When I
>release pressure, the clutch disengages prematurely.


This is correct. I just put in 25 pounds of drywall screws using my Dewalt and
it did it perfectly 99% of the time. The key indeed is to press *harder* just
as the screw nears the wall. Run the screw in at whatever speed you feel
comfortable with, and just as the screw nears the end, really press the gun
towards the wall. If you ease off, it disengages too soon. This
progressive push becomes second nature pretty quickly.

Although I might point out that the nosecone does not need to dimple the wall,
you have it set too deep if it does.

--
Dennis


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