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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by scorpionleather on June 17, 2009, 2:54 pm
I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last for
about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec
and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has not
been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in some
spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure washing
it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that was
loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the
1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn off.
I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can
remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem.
I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something like
synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plastering
down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward the
Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then
Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years.
Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a
replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint?
Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that
instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it
does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has
seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy.
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Posted by ransley on June 17, 2009, 4:08 pm
show/hide quoted text
> I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last f=
> about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec
> and new waterline tile etc. =A0The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it ha=
s not
show/hide quoted text
> been replastered for over 30 years. =A0The existing plaster is chipped in=
some
show/hide quoted text
> spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. =A0After pressure was=
hing
show/hide quoted text
> it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that w=
> loose has already worn off over the years. =A0It had a coat of paint in t=
> 1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn of=
> I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can
> remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem=
> I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something li=
> synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plasteri=
> down the road. =A0That might not last for 5 years. =A0So I'm leaning towa=
rd the
show/hide quoted text
> Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. =A0I'd use Gunzite primer and then
> Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years.
> Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a
> replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint?
> Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that
> instead of plaster? =A0I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than =
> does to plaster. =A0I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who =
has
show/hide quoted text
> seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy.
If you paint now, I dont think a concrete base coating can go over
paint in the future
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Posted by charlie on June 17, 2009, 4:09 pm
show/hide quoted text
> I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last
> for
> about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec
> and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has
> not
> been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in
> some
> spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure washing
> it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that
> was
> loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the
> 1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn
> off.
> I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can
> remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem.
> I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something
> like
> synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until
> re-plastering
> down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward the
> Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then
> Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years.
> Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a
> replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint?
> Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that
> instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it
> does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has
> seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy.
If you paint now, I dont think a concrete base coating can go over
paint in the future
---
not only that, but if it had a coating on it, would paint or epoxy stick to
it now or are you forced into replastering, or at least removing all traces
of what is on there, now?
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Posted by Oren on June 17, 2009, 4:47 pm
On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 13:08:09 -0700 (PDT), ransley
show/hide quoted text
>If you paint now, I dont think a concrete base coating can go over
>paint in the future
Given the cost of pool paint, it would seem insane to paint over
damaged plaster (band-aid). I have plaster damage on the bottom of the
pool and no way would I paint it without repairs being made.
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> about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec
> and new waterline tile etc. =A0The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it ha=