Selecting screw/nail sizes

Posted by Ray K on June 23, 2007, 2:48 pm

I'm building an outdoor planter box(about 6.25"x6.25"x13 feet)that will
attach to the side of my house. The pine lumber was nominally 1x8,
ripped to 6.25" and with a true thickness of 3/4". How should I select a
screw or nail to attach the 7.75 x 6.25" end cap? I only have 3/4" to
stick the fastener into, which means that there is only 3/8" of wood on
either side of the fastener.

The concern is splitting. Number 7 screws, 1.5" cause splitting, even if
I predrill; #6 screws can work if I predrill everything and am careful
to make the pilot holes perfectly parallel to the face of the lumber.
With about 40 fasteners required, this is tedious.

The original box was held together with 1.5" staples. I don't own a
stapler, but renting one is a possibility. Any suggestions for nail sizes?

Thanks,

Ray

Posted by Oren on June 23, 2007, 3:28 pm

wrote:

I would use wood glue and 4d finish nails. You can pre-drill the
holes, drive the nail and the sink it with a nail set.

>The concern is splitting. Number 7 screws, 1.5" cause splitting, even if
>I predrill; #6 screws can work if I predrill everything and am careful
>to make the pilot holes perfectly parallel to the face of the lumber.
>With about 40 fasteners required, this is tedious.
>The original box was held together with 1.5" staples. I don't own a
>stapler, but renting one is a possibility. Any suggestions for nail sizes?
>Thanks,
>Ray

--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who
really loves it."

Posted by RicodJour on June 23, 2007, 3:42 pm

> I'm building an outdoor planter box(about 6.25"x6.25"x13 feet)that will
> attach to the side of my house. The pine lumber was nominally 1x8,
> ripped to 6.25" and with a true thickness of 3/4". How should I select a
> screw or nail to attach the 7.75 x 6.25" end cap? I only have 3/4" to
> stick the fastener into, which means that there is only 3/8" of wood on
> either side of the fastener.
> The concern is splitting. Number 7 screws, 1.5" cause splitting, even if
> I predrill; #6 screws can work if I predrill everything and am careful
> to make the pilot holes perfectly parallel to the face of the lumber.
> With about 40 fasteners required, this is tedious.
> The original box was held together with 1.5" staples. I don't own a
> stapler, but renting one is a possibility. Any suggestions for nail sizes?

The screws aren't flat head screws, are they? If so the taper under
the visible head surface (sorry, I'm not up on screw terminology) will
tend to cause the wood to split as it's driven deeper. If you use pan
head screws you won't have that problem.

R

Posted by Ray K on June 23, 2007, 9:46 pm

RicodJour wrote:

>> I'm building an outdoor planter box(about 6.25"x6.25"x13 feet)that will
>> attach to the side of my house. The pine lumber was nominally 1x8,
>> ripped to 6.25" and with a true thickness of 3/4". How should I select a
>> screw or nail to attach the 7.75 x 6.25" end cap? I only have 3/4" to
>> stick the fastener into, which means that there is only 3/8" of wood on
>> either side of the fastener.
>> The concern is splitting. Number 7 screws, 1.5" cause splitting, even if
>> I predrill; #6 screws can work if I predrill everything and am careful
>> to make the pilot holes perfectly parallel to the face of the lumber.
>> With about 40 fasteners required, this is tedious.
>> The original box was held together with 1.5" staples. I don't own a
>> stapler, but renting one is a possibility. Any suggestions for nail sizes?

>
> The screws aren't flat head screws, are they? If so the taper under
> the visible head surface (sorry, I'm not up on screw terminology) will
> tend to cause the wood to split as it's driven deeper. If you use pan
> head screws you won't have that problem.
>

Yes, the screws I used for testing have flat heads, somewhat like sheet
rock screws. I could countersink the holes to prevent this problem.
Wouldn't I also have to countersink for pan head screws to get them
flush with the lumber?

Posted by RicodJour on June 23, 2007, 10:20 pm

> Yes, the screws I used for testing have flat heads, somewhat like sheet
> rock screws. I could countersink the holes to prevent this problem.
> Wouldn't I also have to countersink for pan head screws to get them
> flush with the lumber?

A countersink is tapered, such as used for drywall and flat head
screws, and it creates a wedging action as the screw is driven home.
That is what's causing the wood to split. A counterbore for a pan
head screw would have a flat bottom. That provides a clamping action
and won't wedge the grain apart.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersink
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterbore

You could also use stainless steel finish washers and eliminate the
counterbore. The flat head screw would still sit proud of the
surface, but it might satisfy your aesthetic requirements.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1910&familyName=Stainless+Steel+Finish+Washers

R

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