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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by on September 1, 2006, 2:57 pm
>
> I was at the Oregon State Fair yesterday, and one vendor had a system where
> you pour your concrete plug into the ground and have a square concrete post
> coming up a few inches out of the ground. Fence post gets bolted to that.
> Fence post never touches the ground. If fence post rots away, you unbolt it
> and bolt a new one in it's place. I'd be interested in doing this if I could
> find instructions and parts.
Just remember that the bottom of your fence post needs to have a lot of
bending strength to resist a wind storm. So if the connection at the
base will break at near the same loading level that the post will break
at, you might have something worthwhile.
Do you have a link to the hardware in question?
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Posted by EXT on September 1, 2006, 8:15 pm
"Ook" <Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the
Don't send me any freakin' spam> wrote in message
>
>>
>> Ook wrote:
>>> Concrete is obviousl a major PITA to replace, but how long do they last
>>> today? In 1966 they used better preservative, and posts would last 50
>>> years.
>>> What can I do to my posts today to get at least a couple of decades out
>>> of
>>> it?
>>>
>>
>> I don't know how long modern wood posts would last. But it's gotta be
>> easier and cheaper to put screws/nails into wood than, say, a cast iron
>> pipe. :) And it's easier than putting a stainless steel achor bolt
>> into the top of a cast iron pipe filled with concrete onto which you
>> could hang your fence wood.
>>
>> But if you go that way, let us know how it works out. It might look
>> cool. ;)
>>
>
> I was at the Oregon State Fair yesterday, and one vendor had a system
> where you pour your concrete plug into the ground and have a square
> concrete post coming up a few inches out of the ground. Fence post gets
> bolted to that. Fence post never touches the ground. If fence post rots
> away, you unbolt it and bolt a new one in it's place. I'd be interested in
> doing this if I could find instructions and parts.
>
I have used the steel anchors that are designed to be pounded into the
ground, but I set them into concrete. You can replace the posts if the
bottom rots, and if you keep the steel painted. When installing, take extra
care to keep them level because a slight angle can create a crooked post.
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Posted by on September 1, 2006, 3:57 pm
yellowbirddog@hotmail.com wrote:
> I don't know how long modern wood posts would last. But it's gotta be
> easier and cheaper to put screws/nails into wood than, say, a cast iron
> pipe. :) And it's easier than putting a stainless steel achor bolt
> into the top of a cast iron pipe filled with concrete onto which you
> could hang your fence wood.
>
> But if you go that way, let us know how it works out. It might look
> cool. ;)
As a follow-up, and not that I'm recommending anything, but I wonder
how that cheap sch 40 black plastic ABS pipe filled with concrete would
be as a fence post. I wonder if it'd be strong enough on it's own, of
if it'd need to have a little re-mesh inside before you fill it with
concrete.
Even if you don't paint it (and it's readily paintable), the carbon
black that they add to it is supposed to keep UV rays at bay.
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Posted by Goedjn on September 2, 2006, 11:35 am
On 1 Sep 2006 12:57:05 -0700, yellowbirddog@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>yellowbirddog@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>> I don't know how long modern wood posts would last. But it's gotta be
>> easier and cheaper to put screws/nails into wood than, say, a cast iron
>> pipe. :) And it's easier than putting a stainless steel achor bolt
>> into the top of a cast iron pipe filled with concrete onto which you
>> could hang your fence wood.
>>
>> But if you go that way, let us know how it works out. It might look
>> cool. ;)
>
>As a follow-up, and not that I'm recommending anything, but I wonder
>how that cheap sch 40 black plastic ABS pipe filled with concrete would
>be as a fence post. I wonder if it'd be strong enough on it's own, of
>if it'd need to have a little re-mesh inside before you fill it with
>concrete.
>
>Even if you don't paint it (and it's readily paintable), the carbon
>black that they add to it is supposed to keep UV rays at bay.
Why not just make the fence-post out of concrete, at that point?
(or buy pre-made concrete fence posts.)
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Posted by on September 2, 2006, 11:13 am
On 1 Sep 2006 09:40:11 -0700, "Inquiringmind"
>Just had to replace a lamp post that broke from wind shear. I think it
>was original to the house, 1966. Had to hire someone to replace it for
>a cost of about $500 because it had to be dug out of the huge concrete
>chunk it was sitting in, and said chunk had to be broken into removal
>bits. A real pain. On the other hand, apparently it had lasted forty
>years. I had the new one set in concrete (with a piece of PVC pipe to
>protect the electric line so that we didn't have to worry about cutting
>the power line if we had to break into the concrete again, ever).
They sell some square metal things that set into concrete and are made
to fit a common 4x4 post. That way the posts can be replaced without
digging. If you dont use something like this, I'd just fill the hole
with the dirt. Thats all I did on my pole barn, which takes a lot
more abuse than a fence.
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Page 2 of 7 < 1 2 3 > last >>
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