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Sewage gases: check valve? Aaron Fude 10-20-2009
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Posted by on October 21, 2009, 4:34 pm


On Wed, 21 Oct 2009 05:27:19 -0700 (PDT), trader4@optonline.net wrote:

>> >Hi,
>> >My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever
>> >its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have
>> >   a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it).
>> >So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump.
>> >Will it solve my problem?
>> No - if it is a check valve, it will catch lint, clog & never shut
>> properly after about a week of use.
>> This is what you want-http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6833156
>> HD carries them as a "cheater vent"    -   Put it on the top of the
>> pipe that your washer drains into- and sani-T the drain hose. [there
>> should be directions showing installations in the package]
>> Jim
>That solves the problem of not being able to have a vent pipe on the
>drain where it is located and works with a P trap. It does not
>eliminate the need for a P trap, which is what the stated problem is.
>He says there is not sufficient elevation for a P trap, for which I
>think we need more explanation..
I cannot envision an installation where a "P" trap could not be
installed. - with a cheater vent - if it is possible to connect and
drain without the trap.. The "P" might turn into an "S", but that's no
problem.

Posted by EXT on October 21, 2009, 10:06 am


> Hi,
> My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or
> whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient
> elevation to have a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I
> just can't do it).
> So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump
> pump. Will it solve my problem?
> And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust
> that the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a
> horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the
> stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one?
> Many thanks in advance!
> Aaron

If there is not enough elevation to install a "P-trap", you will find that a
sump pump check valve is built to be installed vertically so that the ball
closes the pipe by gravity, so there may not be enough room to install it
either.


Posted by Tony Hwang on October 21, 2009, 11:27 am


Aaron Fude wrote:
> Hi,
>
> My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever
> its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have
> a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it).
>
> So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump.
> Will it solve my problem?
>
> And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust that
> the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a
> horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the
> stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one?
>
> Many thanks in advance!
>
> Aaron
Hi
Gas check valve? I wonder how it works.

Posted by Wayne Whitney on October 21, 2009, 11:42 am



> My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or
> whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient
> elevation to have a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I
> just can't do it).

Sorry, you must have a p-trap and standpipe. As others have
mentioned, you can raise the inlet of the standpipe as needed so the
outlet of the p-trap is high enough to tie into your horitzontal
drain. The pump on the washer should be capable of pumping high
enough to get to the standpipe inlet. Check your washer manual for
the maximum height.

If you really can't make that work, then the only alternative is an
ejector pump.

Yours,
Wayne


Posted by Aaron Fude on October 21, 2009, 4:48 pm


Wayne Whitney wrote:
he maximum height.
>
> If you really can't make that work, then the only alternative is an
> ejector pump.
>
> Yours,
> Wayne
>


Thanks for the responses. Here's my situation.


The washer is in the basement. The 4" cast iron drain runs 18" below the
ceiling. So to have a 36" standpipe I would need to go through the
ceiling and into a bay in the wall on the first floor, which I can't do
because my wall sit on steel beams.

Thanks!

Aaron

Page 3 of 7       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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