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Posted by clare on October 21, 2009, 5:55 pm
wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>Wayne Whitney wrote:
>he maximum height.
>>
>> If you really can't make that work, then the only alternative is an
>> ejector pump.
>>
>> Yours,
>> Wayne
>>
>Thanks for the responses. Here's my situation.
>The washer is in the basement. The 4" cast iron drain runs 18" below the
>ceiling. So to have a 36" standpipe I would need to go through the
>ceiling and into a bay in the wall on the first floor, which I can't do
>because my wall sit on steel beams.
>Thanks!
>Aaron
36" standpipe is to get above "flood level". At 18" below the ceiling
you are already well up there.
You say 18" below the ceiling. Is the ceiling level the subfloor
above, or below the floor joist? If it is below the joist you have
another 8" +/- available. What drains are already available (what taps
into the 4" CI pipe) and where? If you have a drain coming into the
pipe that you can tap into I'd put a "T-Y" in and then a trap with as
much "standpipe" as you have room for. If you are within a couple feet
of the "stack" you may not need aditional venting if the standpipe is
between something like 18" and 40" horizontally from the main drain.
Or you MAY need the "cheater vent" to keep the trap from being sucked
dry.
I tried to bounce this off a friend of mine who is a retired plumber
but he's not in at the moment. I'll see what he says when he gets in.
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Posted by clare on October 21, 2009, 8:28 pm
On Wed, 21 Oct 2009 17:55:52 -0400, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>wrote:
>>Wayne Whitney wrote:
>>he maximum height.
>>>
>>> If you really can't make that work, then the only alternative is an
>>> ejector pump.
>>>
>>> Yours,
>>> Wayne
>>>
>>Thanks for the responses. Here's my situation.
>>The washer is in the basement. The 4" cast iron drain runs 18" below the
>>ceiling. So to have a 36" standpipe I would need to go through the
>>ceiling and into a bay in the wall on the first floor, which I can't do
>>because my wall sit on steel beams.
>>Thanks!
>>Aaron
> 36" standpipe is to get above "flood level". At 18" below the ceiling
>you are already well up there.
>You say 18" below the ceiling. Is the ceiling level the subfloor
>above, or below the floor joist? If it is below the joist you have
>another 8" +/- available. What drains are already available (what taps
>into the 4" CI pipe) and where? If you have a drain coming into the
>pipe that you can tap into I'd put a "T-Y" in and then a trap with as
>much "standpipe" as you have room for. If you are within a couple feet
>of the "stack" you may not need aditional venting if the standpipe is
>between something like 18" and 40" horizontally from the main drain.
>Or you MAY need the "cheater vent" to keep the trap from being sucked
>dry.
>I tried to bounce this off a friend of mine who is a retired plumber
>but he's not in at the moment. I'll see what he says when he gets in.
OK, got in contact with my plumber friend. It's simple.
If your washer will pump high enough to reach the pipe you put a
connection into the TOP of the 4" lateral (means cut into pipe and use
mechanical joint (clamped in rubber T Y)) to 2" or 1 1/2" plastic, a
45 to take it straight up, and then a fitting to clamp the washer
discarge tightly to that pipe. No trap or vent required. Enough water
stays in the pump of the washer to seal against sewer gas. (in most
cases).
If you do get sewer gas smell, simply put an S trap in the pipe. No
vent required. If it is a front loader and the pump is not rated for
the full height, put the washer on a 2 foot high "block"
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Posted by Wayne Whitney on October 21, 2009, 9:25 pm
show/hide quoted text
> If your washer will pump high enough to reach the pipe you put a
> connection into the TOP of the 4" lateral (means cut into pipe and
> use mechanical joint (clamped in rubber T Y)) to 2" or 1 1/2"
> plastic, a 45 to take it straight up, and then a fitting to clamp
> the washer discarge tightly to that pipe. No trap or vent required.
This sounds like poor advice. Wayne
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Posted by clare on October 21, 2009, 9:47 pm
On Thu, 22 Oct 2009 01:25:51 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney
show/hide quoted text
>> If your washer will pump high enough to reach the pipe you put a
>> connection into the TOP of the 4" lateral (means cut into pipe and
>> use mechanical joint (clamped in rubber T Y)) to 2" or 1 1/2"
>> plastic, a 45 to take it straight up, and then a fitting to clamp
>> the washer discarge tightly to that pipe. No trap or vent required.
>This sounds like poor advice. Wayne
It is totally safe and legal. The plumber I talked to, a good friend
of mine, was one of the best in the area for many years up to his
recent retirement.
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Posted by Wayne Whitney on October 21, 2009, 9:24 pm
show/hide quoted text
> The washer is in the basement. The 4" cast iron drain runs 18" below
> the ceiling. So to have a 36" standpipe I would need to go through
> the ceiling and into a bay in the wall on the first floor, which I
> can't do because my wall sit on steel beams.
Not sure what plumbing code you are under, but I believe the IPC
states:
802.4 Standpipes. Standpipes shall be individually trapped.
Standpipes shall extend a minimum of 18 inches (457 mm) and a maximum
of 42 inches (1066 mm) above the trap weir.
So an 18" standpipe is adequate. Is there anyway you can fit that in,
with the P-trap and the transition from 2" to 4"?
Cheers, Wayne
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>he maximum height.
>>
>> If you really can't make that work, then the only alternative is an
>> ejector pump.
>>
>> Yours,
>> Wayne
>>
>Thanks for the responses. Here's my situation.
>The washer is in the basement. The 4" cast iron drain runs 18" below the
>ceiling. So to have a 36" standpipe I would need to go through the
>ceiling and into a bay in the wall on the first floor, which I can't do
>because my wall sit on steel beams.
>Thanks!
>Aaron