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Sewer Line Problems DHD 03-06-2007
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Posted by DHD on March 6, 2007, 7:26 am


I own a 1920s house in Columbia SC and have recently developed sewer
line problems. Two months ago, following a rain, sewage backed up
into the basement through a floor drain. It happened again last week,
again after a huge rain storm. I'm assuming there is a break in the
line, that it might be terra cotta pipe or cast iron (as it is inside
the basement). The sewer must be 10-12 feet below grade. It connects
to the city line some 50 feet from the house.

I'm hiring someone to snake a camera down the line and pinpoint the
nature and location of the problem. I call it a sewer colonoscopy.
I'm told this is money well spent if it can clearly locate the
problem.

What am I in for here in terms of expense? I'm assuming the worst,
that the pipe is old, terra cotta, and that it will need to be
completely replaced. 50 ft x 12 feet deep

I trust the plumbing company that I've been working with, but I want
to know their bid is competitive and fair.

I welcome your advice.
--Don


Electric Radiant Heat 468x60
Posted by on March 6, 2007, 7:34 am


> I own a 1920s house in Columbia SC and have recently developed sewer
> line problems. Two months ago, following a rain, sewage backed up
> into the basement through a floor drain. It happened again last week,
> again after a huge rain storm. I'm assuming there is a break in the
> line, that it might be terra cotta pipe or cast iron (as it is inside
> the basement). The sewer must be 10-12 feet below grade. It connects
> to the city line some 50 feet from the house.
>
> I'm hiring someone to snake a camera down the line and pinpoint the
> nature and location of the problem. I call it a sewer colonoscopy.
> I'm told this is money well spent if it can clearly locate the
> problem.
>
> What am I in for here in terms of expense? I'm assuming the worst,
> that the pipe is old, terra cotta, and that it will need to be
> completely replaced. 50 ft x 12 feet deep
>
> I trust the plumbing company that I've been working with, but I want
> to know their bid is competitive and fair.
>
> I welcome your advice.
> --Don

I recently went through the same process, after increasing rates of
snaking out the line. I opted not to video the line becuase we knew
the line was bad and repalcin it in sections was merely prolonging the
inevitable. If you dig the trench yourself, you'll save much of the $
$. Get a few bids from reputable firms and proceed sooner than
later . I waited, and had to go with the first bid I got!


Posted by hallerb@aol.com on March 6, 2007, 8:42 am


On Mar 6, 7:34=EF=BF=BDam, andyneed...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > I own a 1920s house in Columbia SC and have recently developed sewer
> > line problems. =A0Two months ago, following a rain, sewage backed up
> > into the basement through a floor drain. =A0It happened again last week,
> > again after a huge rain storm. =A0 I'm assuming there is a break in the
> > line, that it might be terra cotta pipe or cast iron (as it is inside
> > the basement). =A0The sewer must be 10-12 feet below grade. =A0It conne=
cts
> > to the city line some 50 feet from the house.
>
> > I'm hiring someone to snake a camera down the line and pinpoint the
> > nature and location of the problem. =A0I call it a sewer colonoscopy.
> > I'm told this is money well spent if it can clearly locate the
> > problem.
>
> > What am I in for here in terms of expense? =A0I'm assuming the worst,
> > that the pipe is old, terra cotta, and that it will need to be
> > completely replaced. =A050 ft x 12 feet deep
>
> > I trust the plumbing company that I've been working with, but I want
> > to know their bid is competitive and fair.
>
> > I welcome your advice.
> > --Don
>
> I recently went through the same process, after increasing rates of
> snaking out the line. =A0I opted not to video the line becuase we knew
> the line was bad and repalcin it in sections was merely prolonging the
> inevitable. =A0If you dig the trench yourself, you'll save much of the $
> $. =A0Get a few bids from reputable firms and proceed sooner than
> later . =A0I waited, and had to go with the first bid I got!- Hide quoted=
text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

theres a pittsburgh company that videos the line for free, after
snaking.

I HAD this trouble from tree roots, EVERY JOINT of the entire line but
one had tree roots in it:(

After more snakings I started a regular maintence item, dumping rock
salt in the washtub. add lots of hot water and stir.

Then dont use ANY water for day, like while at work!

The salt kills the roots but leaves the trees unharmed:)

Thats a 4 times a year job here at about 3 bucks each 12 bucks a year/
No sewer troubles and its been over 10 years unless I forget to salt
it:(

Early spring when the trees are getting ready to leaf out is the most
common time for trouble, they are looking for water for the coming
growing season:(

Its cheap, and it works.

Another option is having the line snaked cleaned and a sock installed.
It applies a interior plastic seamless line without digging.
they put a soft plastic like sock thru your line, inflate it, then
pump it up with hot water. the heat harens it into a smooth line
inside your exsting line no more roots.

Would likely be cheaper than digging:) Theres a this old house episode
covering this.

FORGET cutting down everything growing to fix root troubles.

Tree roots will travel at least 3 times the drip edge of the tree for
a good source of water. thats 3 times the edge of the outside iof the
foilage.

They sometimes go futher:( I had Fitser bushes roots 50 feet from bush
to sewer. I thought the plumber nuts till I did some digging..........

Good luck with your sewer. If its roots you can live with it like a
minor chore like mppping the floor.

Softner salt works great too.

I use a 25 pound bag 4 times a year. just dump and loeave sit.

You might try that before calling plumber, salt if things are
beginning to clog and still moves a little usually works within a
day , give this a double dose:)


Posted by dkhedmo on March 6, 2007, 3:55 pm


hallerb@aol.com wrote:

>
> Another option is having the line snaked cleaned and a sock installed.
> It applies a interior plastic seamless line without digging.
> they put a soft plastic like sock thru your line, inflate it, then
> pump it up with hot water. the heat harens it into a smooth line
> inside your exsting line no more roots.
>
> Would likely be cheaper than digging:) Theres a this old house episode
> covering this.
>
>

We live in a 1950's ranch-on-a-slab. In fact, we live in a neighborhood
of virtually all the same 50's r-o-a-ses. We bought the place in
September, and since then I've seen two front yards dug up in order to
replace the sewer line. Retired plumber/neighbor next door mentioned
that a few other people in the neighborhood have also had to do the
same, and that he really out to get around to getting his done. (BTW, we
do not have a big tree where the sewer line is. There is a small tree
which was planted only a year or two ago.)

The week we moved in, we had a plumbing emergency, as it turned out the
drainage line under the floor from the laundry room/kitchen was rotted
out. We elected not to jackhammer up the floor as we had just moved in,
but to install a pump and plumbing up through the attic. At some point,
ideally before replacing the flooring, we may do it right and jackhammer.

Anyway, this "sock" scenario is interesting, as we have already lost one
pipe, and neighbors with the same set-up have had to dig. Is this a
"permanent" type of fix, which could avoid us having to dig and replace,
or is it a duct-tape type of fix? Can anyone give some price figures on
the various scenarios, pay out for the whole job vs. dig it yourself
vs. sock, for say 25ft from the house to the street. From the couple
I've seen dug, it's not too far down, as we're on a slab, not more than
6ft, more like 3-4ft.

And when you say "dig the trench yourself," you mean rent a piece of
machinery and actually dig the trench oneself? How do you know exactly
where to dig, and where not to dig? How likely is one to kill, maim, or
injure oneself or others while doing this? It seems like the kind of
thing the average person should not be allowed to do...

Karen

Posted by Speedy Jim on March 6, 2007, 4:29 pm


dkhedmo wrote:

> hallerb@aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Another option is having the line snaked cleaned and a sock installed.
>> It applies a interior plastic seamless line without digging.
>> they put a soft plastic like sock thru your line, inflate it, then
>> pump it up with hot water. the heat harens it into a smooth line
>> inside your exsting line no more roots.
>>
>> Would likely be cheaper than digging:) Theres a this old house episode
>> covering this.
>>
>>
>
> We live in a 1950's ranch-on-a-slab. In fact, we live in a neighborhood
> of virtually all the same 50's r-o-a-ses. We bought the place in
> September, and since then I've seen two front yards dug up in order to
> replace the sewer line. Retired plumber/neighbor next door mentioned
> that a few other people in the neighborhood have also had to do the
> same, and that he really out to get around to getting his done. (BTW, we
> do not have a big tree where the sewer line is. There is a small tree
> which was planted only a year or two ago.)
>
> The week we moved in, we had a plumbing emergency, as it turned out the
> drainage line under the floor from the laundry room/kitchen was rotted
> out. We elected not to jackhammer up the floor as we had just moved in,
> but to install a pump and plumbing up through the attic. At some point,
> ideally before replacing the flooring, we may do it right and jackhammer.
>
> Anyway, this "sock" scenario is interesting, as we have already lost one
> pipe, and neighbors with the same set-up have had to dig. Is this a
> "permanent" type of fix, which could avoid us having to dig and replace,
> or is it a duct-tape type of fix? Can anyone give some price figures on
> the various scenarios, pay out for the whole job vs. dig it yourself vs.
> sock, for say 25ft from the house to the street. From the couple I've
> seen dug, it's not too far down, as we're on a slab, not more than 6ft,
> more like 3-4ft.
>
> And when you say "dig the trench yourself," you mean rent a piece of
> machinery and actually dig the trench oneself? How do you know exactly
> where to dig, and where not to dig? How likely is one to kill, maim, or
> injure oneself or others while doing this? It seems like the kind of
> thing the average person should not be allowed to do...
>
> Karen


There are numerous types of sewer pipe materials.
One is "Orangeburg", made from cellulose fiber and tar.
It deteriorates after....50 years!

(I'm not suggesting you have this; just a heads up)

History of the pipe here:
http://www.sewerhistory.org/grfx/components/pipe-orng1.htm

and:
http://www.sewerhistory.org/articles/compon/orangeburg/orangeburg.htm

Problem, as seen from Tempe, AZ:
http://www.tempe.gov/bsafety/Orangeburg/Orangeburg.htm

Quote: "the average person should not be allowed to do..."
In many cities/counties, he wouldn't be allowed to do it
without a permit.

Not only are injuries possible, but every utility imaginable
may be buried nearby. In 1950 the prevailing practice was to
bury the city water line in the *same* trench as the sewer lateral.
Oh, the water line may have been elevated a foot or so on a "ledge",
but it was in the same trench. Running a trench machine thru that
is almost a guarantee of a water line break.


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