Home Page link

Sheer frustration

Home| Search | About
Login Password
Register Now! Lost Password?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 2 of 3       < 1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Sheer frustration Harlan Messinger 06-27-2007
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by dpb on June 27, 2007, 7:59 pm
Speedy Jim wrote:
> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>
>> Speedy Jim wrote:
>>
>>> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>>>
>>>> Why it takes me so long to get up the steam to start a home
>>>> improvement project:
>>>>
>>>> I got a pedestal sink to replace a vanity sink in a powder room. I
>>>> need to put in a backer board. I remove some of the drywall and find
>>>> two plastic pipes from above, presumably drain pipes, one straight
>>>> down the middle between the water supply pipes and one on the left
>>>> just inside the stud, and BOTH smack against the back of the drywall.
>>>
>>>
>>> <SNIP>
>>>
>>> So, don't use a "board".
>>>
>>> How about a 1/4" thk steel plate notched into the studs?
>>> Tap the plate for bolts or permanently fasten threaded studs
>>> to it.
>>
>>
>> Nope, there isn't even a quarter inch between the front of these pipes
>> and the back of the drywall. But there IS about a sixteenth of an
>> inch. I could screw a steel sheet between the studs, after having
>> screwed rectangles from a 2x8 to the back of the sheet to cover the
>> space between the intruding pipes. (I do have over 2 inches between
>> the front of the supply pipes and the back of the drywall.) The wood
>> would span the locations of the bolts. Does that sound sufficiently
>> solid?
>>
>
>
> That sounds workable. And you could make the steel plate
> as "tall" as you need to give the stiffness.

The height won't add much stiffness. What would do that would be a
vertical angle attached to it alongside the pipes where there is clearance.

--

PexSupply Save 10 468x60
Posted by Speedy Jim on June 27, 2007, 9:35 pm
dpb wrote:

> Speedy Jim wrote:
>
>> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>>
>>> Speedy Jim wrote:
>>>
>>>> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Why it takes me so long to get up the steam to start a home
>>>>> improvement project:
>>>>>
>>>>> I got a pedestal sink to replace a vanity sink in a powder room. I
>>>>> need to put in a backer board. I remove some of the drywall and
>>>>> find two plastic pipes from above, presumably drain pipes, one
>>>>> straight down the middle between the water supply pipes and one on
>>>>> the left just inside the stud, and BOTH smack against the back of
>>>>> the drywall.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <SNIP>
>>>>
>>>> So, don't use a "board".
>>>>
>>>> How about a 1/4" thk steel plate notched into the studs?
>>>> Tap the plate for bolts or permanently fasten threaded studs
>>>> to it.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Nope, there isn't even a quarter inch between the front of these
>>> pipes and the back of the drywall. But there IS about a sixteenth of
>>> an inch. I could screw a steel sheet between the studs, after having
>>> screwed rectangles from a 2x8 to the back of the sheet to cover the
>>> space between the intruding pipes. (I do have over 2 inches between
>>> the front of the supply pipes and the back of the drywall.) The wood
>>> would span the locations of the bolts. Does that sound sufficiently
>>> solid?
>>>
>>
>>
>> That sounds workable. And you could make the steel plate
>> as "tall" as you need to give the stiffness.
>
>
> The height won't add much stiffness. What would do that would be a
> vertical angle attached to it alongside the pipes where there is clearance.
>
> --

Very good point. Could even be made a bendment
in the sheetmetal.

--

Posted by dpb on June 27, 2007, 10:13 pm
Speedy Jim wrote:
> dpb wrote:
>
>> Speedy Jim wrote:
>>
>>> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>>>
>>>> Speedy Jim wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Why it takes me so long to get up the steam to start a home
>>>>>> improvement project:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I got a pedestal sink to replace a vanity sink in a powder room. I
>>>>>> need to put in a backer board. I remove some of the drywall and
>>>>>> find two plastic pipes from above, presumably drain pipes, one
>>>>>> straight down the middle between the water supply pipes and one on
>>>>>> the left just inside the stud, and BOTH smack against the back of
>>>>>> the drywall.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> <SNIP>
>>>>>
>>>>> So, don't use a "board".
>>>>>
>>>>> How about a 1/4" thk steel plate notched into the studs?
>>>>> Tap the plate for bolts or permanently fasten threaded studs
>>>>> to it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Nope, there isn't even a quarter inch between the front of these
>>>> pipes and the back of the drywall. But there IS about a sixteenth of
>>>> an inch. I could screw a steel sheet between the studs, after having
>>>> screwed rectangles from a 2x8 to the back of the sheet to cover the
>>>> space between the intruding pipes. (I do have over 2 inches between
>>>> the front of the supply pipes and the back of the drywall.) The wood
>>>> would span the locations of the bolts. Does that sound sufficiently
>>>> solid?
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> That sounds workable. And you could make the steel plate
>>> as "tall" as you need to give the stiffness.
>>
>>
>> The height won't add much stiffness. What would do that would be a
>> vertical angle attached to it alongside the pipes where there is
>> clearance.
>>
>> --
>
> Very good point. Could even be made a bendment
> in the sheetmetal.

Yeah, I was going to add that as an alternative/enhancement but you beat
me to it... :)

--

Posted by aemeijers on June 27, 2007, 11:17 pm

> Speedy Jim wrote:
>> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>>
>>> Why it takes me so long to get up the steam to start a home improvement
>>> project:
>>>
>>> I got a pedestal sink to replace a vanity sink in a powder room. I need
>>> to put in a backer board. I remove some of the drywall and find two
>>> plastic pipes from above, presumably drain pipes, one straight down the
>>> middle between the water supply pipes and one on the left just inside
>>> the stud, and BOTH smack against the back of the drywall.
>>
>> <SNIP>
>>
>> So, don't use a "board".
>>
>> How about a 1/4" thk steel plate notched into the studs?
>> Tap the plate for bolts or permanently fasten threaded studs
>> to it.
>
> Nope, there isn't even a quarter inch between the front of these pipes and
> the back of the drywall. But there IS about a sixteenth of an inch. I
> could screw a steel sheet between the studs, after having screwed
> rectangles from a 2x8 to the back of the sheet to cover the space between
> the intruding pipes. (I do have over 2 inches between the front of the
> supply pipes and the back of the drywall.) The wood would span the
> locations of the bolts. Does that sound sufficiently solid?
>
>>
>> You might even be able to notch a piece of plywood into the
>> studs if steel isn't your thing.
You don't need to notch the studs. Just replace a section of drywall with
smooth-finish plywood the same thickness, screwed to the studs, seal
appropriately, mud into the drywall, prime, and paint. If you do it right,
it'll vanish completely.

aem sends....



Posted by Eric9822 on June 28, 2007, 1:24 am
>
>
>
>
> > Speedy Jim wrote:
> >> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>
> >>> Why it takes me so long to get up the steam to start a home improvement
> >>> project:
>
> >>> I got a pedestal sink to replace a vanity sink in a powder room. I need
> >>> to put in a backer board. I remove some of the drywall and find two
> >>> plastic pipes from above, presumably drain pipes, one straight down the
> >>> middle between the water supply pipes and one on the left just inside
> >>> the stud, and BOTH smack against the back of the drywall.
>
> >> <SNIP>
>
> >> So, don't use a "board".
>
> >> How about a 1/4" thk steel plate notched into the studs?
> >> Tap the plate for bolts or permanently fasten threaded studs
> >> to it.
>
> > Nope, there isn't even a quarter inch between the front of these pipes and
> > the back of the drywall. But there IS about a sixteenth of an inch. I
> > could screw a steel sheet between the studs, after having screwed
> > rectangles from a 2x8 to the back of the sheet to cover the space between
> > the intruding pipes. (I do have over 2 inches between the front of the
> > supply pipes and the back of the drywall.) The wood would span the
> > locations of the bolts. Does that sound sufficiently solid?
>
> >> You might even be able to notch a piece of plywood into the
> >> studs if steel isn't your thing.
>
> You don't need to notch the studs. Just replace a section of drywall with
> smooth-finish plywood the same thickness, screwed to the studs, seal
> appropriately, mud into the drywall, prime, and paint. If you do it right,
> it'll vanish completely.
>
> aem sends....- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

This is exactly what I did and was preparing to propose. It worked
great and you can't see it unless you poke your head up under the
basin.


Page 2 of 3       < 1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
Frustration in trying to fix window July 11, 2005, 2:48 am
Frustration with Craftsman Belt Sander October 6, 2008, 2:22 pm
Mower Rear-Wheel Ratchet-Spring Frustration July 30, 2005, 1:33 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap