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Posted by Ken on September 2, 2005, 6:17 am
stryped@hotmail.com wrote:
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> But there is no "jam" this is a big door. The actual door in in the
> middle. On each side of the real door are two fake doors that dont
> open. "Like a french door".
Ahh, I didn't catch that from the original note. Yes, that is slightly
more of a problem to fix nicely. Any chance you can detach one of the
fake doors and move it over a little bit to take up the gap? Barring
that, probably just do what Rico suggested, and glue on a thin strip on
the latch side.
Ken
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Posted by RicodJour on September 2, 2005, 8:40 am
stryped@hotmail.com wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> But there is no "jam" this is a big door. The actual door in in the
> middle. On each side of the real door are two fake doors that dont
> open. "Like a french door".
I wonder if there was supposed to be an applied astragal. They're
typical on French doors. Maybe it came separately and was never
installed?
http://www.the-wood.com/pictures/glossary/T-Astragal.jpg
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Posted by RicodJour on September 2, 2005, 6:09 am
stryped@hotmail.com wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> I have a back door that apparently was not put in square. It is a big
> door. a fake door on each side and the real one in the middle. SOmeone
> suggested shimming the hinge side so the gap is smaller where the door
> latches. Can anyone explain how to do this? WIll I need to buy a router
> to route hout" the hinge side? I am thinking of putting a 1/4 inch
> board on the hinge side of the frame to push the door over that far.
> How do I ensure the door is lined up properly when I put it back on?
Why would you put the filler piece on the hinge side? It's _far_ more
work than putting it on the latch side, and no real benefit. Buy some
lattice molding of the correct width - basically a flat thin strip of
wood - perfect for your application. You'll have to cut a mortise for
the strike plate, but that's really simple to do with a razor knife,
chisel and hammer. No need for a router. Make sure the piece fits
correctly before attaching it permanently. Cut it to fit. Put it place
and mark for the strike plate(s). Remove and cut mortises. Test fit.
Then glue and nail the strip in place.
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Posted by stryped on September 2, 2005, 11:49 am
Would it be hard to just square the door? How would I do that. Is that
causign the problem?
RicodJour wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> stryped@hotmail.com wrote:
> > I have a back door that apparently was not put in square. It is a big
> > door. a fake door on each side and the real one in the middle. SOmeone
> > suggested shimming the hinge side so the gap is smaller where the door
> > latches. Can anyone explain how to do this? WIll I need to buy a router
> > to route hout" the hinge side? I am thinking of putting a 1/4 inch
> > board on the hinge side of the frame to push the door over that far.
> > How do I ensure the door is lined up properly when I put it back on?
> Why would you put the filler piece on the hinge side? It's _far_ more
> work than putting it on the latch side, and no real benefit. Buy some
> lattice molding of the correct width - basically a flat thin strip of
> wood - perfect for your application. You'll have to cut a mortise for
> the strike plate, but that's really simple to do with a razor knife,
> chisel and hammer. No need for a router. Make sure the piece fits
> correctly before attaching it permanently. Cut it to fit. Put it place
> and mark for the strike plate(s). Remove and cut mortises. Test fit.
> Then glue and nail the strip in place.
>
> R
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Posted by RicodJour on September 2, 2005, 12:16 pm
stryped@hotmail.com wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> Would it be hard to just square the door? How would I do that. Is that
> causign the problem?
Instead of leading people on home improvement diagnostic wild-goose
chases, take some pictures of the door and post them on a free picture
hosting site and let us take a look.
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> middle. On each side of the real door are two fake doors that dont
> open. "Like a french door".