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Should I reglaze or replace my windows?

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Should I reglaze or replace my windows? Joe 06-17-2008
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Posted by Joe on June 17, 2008, 3:48 pm
> On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:21:32 -0700, Joe wrote:
> > I have a 50 year old house and 50 year old windows. This winter I
> > noticed that the original glazing had been chipping off and the only
> > thing holding some of the panes in place was paint so I resolved to
> > reglaze the windows this spring (no summer). Should I just replace them?
> > They are pretty air-tight and I did not feel much of a breeze coming
> > through them except for the coldest and windiest days of the winter and
> > a lot of that I attribute to the old glazing. Each window has a storm
> > window but the inside window does feel very cold to the touch in the
> > winter so I'm not sure how much they help. I'm trying to weight the cost
> > of replacing the windows with the savings that I will realize for
> > replacing as opposed to the savings I will get from reglazing.
>
> > Here's a picture of the window
>
> >http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4526/windowtl5.jpg
>
> > What would you do in this situation?
>
> I'd look at the cost for replacements. Newer windows will be more energy
> efficient. Not sure, but you may qualify for a tax credit on some Energy
> Star purchases. At least this was the case for 2007. Not sure about
> 2008.
>
> You mentioned a draft on a windy day. If the wind is coming in, heat is
> going out. You could recover the cost of the windows in just a few years.
>
> I found a kit several years ago consisting of two side tracks and two
> sashes. I could rip out the old window sash and stops, and install the
> kit easily within 20-30 minutes a window. What a difference it made.
>
> Newer windows are also double paned and some even have low-e glass.
>
> --
>
> =================================================
> Franz Fripplfrappl

I'm also concerned about the heat in the house pushing up against the
freezing cold window and decreasing in temp. I've been putting this
off because I also need to do something about the 60 year old
insulation in my walls that seems to be quite lacking. I'd hate to
replace the windows only to start another project of insulating the
walls. Seems to me that both should be done at the same time. I'm just
not sure which way I should go on wall insulation. Some contractors
tell me that blow in is a waste and that I should rip out the inside
walls and put in traditional fiberglass, others tell me that I
shouldn't bother with the wall insulation and just reinsulate the
attic so it's very confusing on what I should be focusing on.
Everything I read tells me that most of the heat is lost through the
attic and windows but I can't get over how cold some of the walls are
in my house in the winter.

Special 468x60
Posted by franz fripplfrappl on June 17, 2008, 7:52 pm
On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 12:48:11 -0700, Joe wrote:

>> On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:21:32 -0700, Joe wrote:
>> > I have a 50 year old house and 50 year old windows. This winter I
>> > noticed that the original glazing had been chipping off and the only
>> > thing holding some of the panes in place was paint so I resolved to
>> > reglaze the windows this spring (no summer). Should I just replace
>> > them? They are pretty air-tight and I did not feel much of a breeze
>> > coming through them except for the coldest and windiest days of the
>> > winter and a lot of that I attribute to the old glazing. Each window
>> > has a storm window but the inside window does feel very cold to the
>> > touch in the winter so I'm not sure how much they help. I'm trying to
>> > weight the cost of replacing the windows with the savings that I will
>> > realize for replacing as opposed to the savings I will get from
>> > reglazing.
>>
>> > Here's a picture of the window
>>
>> >http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4526/windowtl5.jpg
>>
>> > What would you do in this situation?
>>
>> I'd look at the cost for replacements. Newer windows will be more
>> energy efficient. Not sure, but you may qualify for a tax credit on
>> some Energy Star purchases. At least this was the case for 2007. Not
>> sure about 2008.
>>
>> You mentioned a draft on a windy day. If the wind is coming in, heat
>> is going out. You could recover the cost of the windows in just a few
>> years.
>>
>> I found a kit several years ago consisting of two side tracks and two
>> sashes. I could rip out the old window sash and stops, and install the
>> kit easily within 20-30 minutes a window. What a difference it made.
>>
>> Newer windows are also double paned and some even have low-e glass.
>>
>> --
>>
>> ================================================= Franz Fripplfrappl
>
> I'm also concerned about the heat in the house pushing up against the
> freezing cold window and decreasing in temp. I've been putting this off
> because I also need to do something about the 60 year old insulation in
> my walls that seems to be quite lacking. I'd hate to replace the windows
> only to start another project of insulating the walls. Seems to me that
> both should be done at the same time. I'm just not sure which way I
> should go on wall insulation. Some contractors tell me that blow in is a
> waste and that I should rip out the inside walls and put in traditional
> fiberglass, others tell me that I shouldn't bother with the wall
> insulation and just reinsulate the attic so it's very confusing on what
> I should be focusing on. Everything I read tells me that most of the
> heat is lost through the attic and windows but I can't get over how cold
> some of the walls are in my house in the winter.

Are you sure there's insulation?

I've owned 3 homes circa 1920's and 1930's: NO insulation. I blew in
cellulose and all houses were most comfortable and soundproofed. On a
brick house, the material was blown in on the inside to minimize damage
to bricks. On the other two, it was on the outside by drilling 2" holes
and plugging them. The issue is fire stops also prevent insulation from
filling the entire stud cavity.

It may be worth your while to have someone do a thermograph (?) of your
building so you can see where the leaks and deficiencies are.

If you plan to stay in your home for many years, what you do now will
cost you less than it will 5-10 years from now and you will start to save
money immediately with respect to heating/cooling costs. You have to
decide. No one else can.

My advice: Go for it and don't look back. Enjoy your house and make it a
place to which you love to come home.

I would also check for tax credits and incentives. Does your utility
company offer help?



--

=================================================
Franz Fripplfrappl

Posted by ransley on June 17, 2008, 5:11 pm
> I have a 50 year old house and 50 year old windows. This winter I
> noticed that the original glazing had been chipping off and the only
> thing holding some of the panes in place was paint so I resolved to
> reglaze the windows this spring (no summer). Should I just replace
> them? They are pretty air-tight and I did not feel much of a breeze
> coming through them except for the coldest and windiest days of the
> winter and a lot of that I attribute to the old glazing. Each window
> has a storm window but the inside window does feel very cold to the
> touch in the winter so I'm not sure how much they help. I'm trying to
> weight the cost of replacing the windows with the savings that I will
> realize for replacing as opposed to the savings I will get from
> reglazing.
>
> Here's a picture of the window
>
> http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4526/windowtl5.jpg
>
> What would you do in this situation?

Energy Star Low e Argon windows will save probably 10-20% on your
bills depending on brand and how bad yours are, Attic insulation is
most important, if you live in a cold winter area going alot above
code minimums is smart. Attics are the cheapest to do, windows and
walls cost the most. You need an energy audit done to see what you
have and what you can save. This is a Blower Door test that gives an
accurate printout of how many air exchanges your home has and how many
it should have. The tech will pinpoint air leaks with a smoke stick so
you know what to fix. Then a load calculation is done to see where you
are now and where you can go with windows and insulation. Many bigger
heating contractors have blower door test equipment and should know
how to do a load calculation. www.energystar.gov is a good place to
start reading.

Posted by Norminn on June 17, 2008, 5:24 pm
Joe wrote:

>I have a 50 year old house and 50 year old windows. This winter I
>noticed that the original glazing had been chipping off and the only
>thing holding some of the panes in place was paint so I resolved to
>reglaze the windows this spring (no summer). Should I just replace
>them? They are pretty air-tight and I did not feel much of a breeze
>coming through them except for the coldest and windiest days of the
>winter and a lot of that I attribute to the old glazing. Each window
>has a storm window but the inside window does feel very cold to the
>touch in the winter so I'm not sure how much they help. I'm trying to
>weight the cost of replacing the windows with the savings that I will
>realize for replacing as opposed to the savings I will get from
>reglazing.
>
>Here's a picture of the window
>
>http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4526/windowtl5.jpg
>
>What would you do in this situation?
>
>
Got a picutre of the outside glazing compound? Big damn difference in
putting in putty vs.
new windows. It would be a good deal of work to reglaze, but it isn't
rocket science. I
would be inclined to keep the existing windows for esthetic reasons, but
fuel costs are
the issue of the day.

Posted by Joe on June 17, 2008, 6:00 pm
> Joe wrote:
> >I have a 50 year old house and 50 year old windows. This winter I
> >noticed that the original glazing had been chipping off and the only
> >thing holding some of the panes in place was paint so I resolved to
> >reglaze the windows this spring (no summer). Should I just replace
> >them? They are pretty air-tight and I did not feel much of a breeze
> >coming through them except for the coldest and windiest days of the
> >winter and a lot of that I attribute to the old glazing. Each window
> >has a storm window but the inside window does feel very cold to the
> >touch in the winter so I'm not sure how much they help. I'm trying to
> >weight the cost of replacing the windows with the savings that I will
> >realize for replacing as opposed to the savings I will get from
> >reglazing.
>
> >Here's a picture of the window
>
> >http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4526/windowtl5.jpg
>
> >What would you do in this situation?
>
> Got a picutre of the outside glazing compound? Big damn difference in
> putting in putty vs.
> new windows. It would be a good deal of work to reglaze, but it isn't
> rocket science. I
> would be inclined to keep the existing windows for esthetic reasons, but
> fuel costs are
> the issue of the day

Well, I don't mind spending money on new windows but I'm going to feel
foolish if my fuel usage stays static with the new windows and the
real problem was the walls. How can I find out where the heat is
escaping?

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