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Shower Door Radius at Bottom Corner Causing Gap

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Shower Door Radius at Bottom Corner Causing Gap jk 12-27-2006
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Posted by jk on December 27, 2006, 10:00 pm


Question pertains to installation of shower door. I cut the bottom per
directions, measuring above the curve on the bottom of the shower stall
(fiberglass) and deducting the 9/16" from the measurment.
When I put the bottom piece down, there is a quarter inch gap on each
end (aprox.) due to the radius, I can't get the piece to fit snugly
againts the wall on the pivot side.
Also, here's the really bad part. When I put the strike piece againts
the side wall of the shower, it does not fit squarely at the bottom due
to the radius at the bottom, same thing on the pivot side, gap at the
bottom corner. If I try to raise the piece up such that the gap is
minimized the strike/pivot pieces are almost over the top of the
bottom piece. Suggestions? Thanks.


AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by JerseyMike on December 28, 2006, 9:05 am



> Question pertains to installation of shower door. I cut the bottom per
> directions, measuring above the curve on the bottom of the shower stall
> (fiberglass) and deducting the 9/16" from the measurment.
> When I put the bottom piece down, there is a quarter inch gap on each
> end (aprox.) due to the radius, I can't get the piece to fit snugly
> againts the wall on the pivot side.
> Also, here's the really bad part. When I put the strike piece againts
> the side wall of the shower, it does not fit squarely at the bottom due
> to the radius at the bottom, same thing on the pivot side, gap at the
> bottom corner. If I try to raise the piece up such that the gap is
> minimized the strike/pivot pieces are almost over the top of the
> bottom piece. Suggestions? Thanks.
>


it sounds like y6ou are going to have to cut the angle off the bottom and
the side rails to make them fit . start with small cuts using a hacksaw,
then filing down w/ a fine file. if there is a 1/4" gap, it doesn't sound
too bad,b ut it's best to make a couple sm,all cuts and file rather than
guess and make too big a cut. you may end up w/ a "hole" at the corners
when you're finished, but if you're careful, keep the angle cuts to a
miniumum and take your time, they won't end up as noticable as you think.
also don not caulk anything until everything is cut and fits as you want it
to. use duct tape to tape hold down the bittom track while you get the side
rails cut and mounting holes located and driled. then sweep up any mess and
clean your work area and make sure you are ready to finish from here. when
you caulk the bottom track make sure the surface of the shower is clean and
you have enough caulk to do the job. when doin the side rails, caulk the
bottom back surface about 6-8" high then secure to the wall. when all is
finished caulk side rails to shower surface and outside side rails to shower
surface to help hide the notches you made. also caulk the bottom track
outside the same way. and let dry the recommended drying time plus and
extra time you can allow.


good luck...

mike..........



Posted by jk on December 28, 2006, 8:22 pm


Thought I'd follow up with an update to my situation (as it were). I
contacted the Sterling/Kohler company today. Thier customer help person
informed me that the door I bought (model # 1500D-36S) .....can not...
that's right, can not be used where there is a radius at the point
where the side rails and bottom rail meet. Funny. The installation
instructions say in bold letters, "if you have a radius in your shower
enclosure at the point where the side and bottom rails meet, be sure to
measure the distance between walls above the radius"....The
instructions even provide a little picture to show you where you should
put your tape measure. Clearly this suggests that the shower door can
be used in a shower stall that has a radius. No where is there any
mention made of cutting or filing down the edges to accomodate for the
radius. Funny. The customer rep said that they used to have these
instructions in the booklet. Funny. After she spoke with her
supervisor, she said that those instructions were removed because the
door is not suitable for enclosures with a radius.
Funny. Nothing anywhere says anything about that. So what did they say?
Return the door to Home Depot. She said that she "hoped" they would
take it back. I told her someone would be taking it back one way or
another. At that point my tires were spinning with her and I vented a
little more and said good bye. Sucks that a company would seemingly
continue to sell a product that they know is not suitable for some
applications. Maybe they figure the homeowner would just caulk it to
death and hope for the best. Who knows? Well its back to the drawing
board. I am not done with Kohler though.......
WARNING! Kohler/Sterling does not engage in open and honest
merchandizing.
Thanks
jmk


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