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Shower stall glass door re-install problem New Comcast News Server 07-14-2005
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Posted by New Comcast News Server on July 14, 2005, 10:16 am


Shower pan failed - tore out the old pan and about half of the tile (about
three feet up on each wall) - new tile and pan installed by a contractor -
I'm reinstalling the old shower door, and it looks like the width of the
shower sill (where the bottom runner of the shower door goes) is about 1/2
inch wider than where the top rail of the shower door goes. Not sure if it
was like this previously, or if the hardiboard the tile guy used on the
repair would be different from the original crap put in when the house was
built 20+ years ago.

1 - if I just center the bottom rail on the sill, will some extra caulking
at each end of the bottom rail take care of the width problem and prevent
leaks?

2 - I'm assuming that the vertical rails need to be true (straight up and
down) so the door hangs correctly - since the walls aren't square, could I
just shim the vertical rails slightly at the bottom to make sure they're
lined up correctly - guess I'd have to use some additional caulk there, too?

Using a bar of soap standing out in the rain is looking pretty good right
now!

Thanks!




Posted by MLD on July 14, 2005, 7:13 pm



> Shower pan failed - tore out the old pan and about half of the tile (about
> three feet up on each wall) - new tile and pan installed by a contractor -
> I'm reinstalling the old shower door, and it looks like the width of the
> shower sill (where the bottom runner of the shower door goes) is about 1/2
> inch wider than where the top rail of the shower door goes. Not sure if
it
> was like this previously, or if the hardiboard the tile guy used on the
> repair would be different from the original crap put in when the house was
> built 20+ years ago.
>
> 1 - if I just center the bottom rail on the sill, will some extra caulking
> at each end of the bottom rail take care of the width problem and prevent
> leaks?
>
> 2 - I'm assuming that the vertical rails need to be true (straight up and
> down) so the door hangs correctly - since the walls aren't square, could I
> just shim the vertical rails slightly at the bottom to make sure they're
> lined up correctly - guess I'd have to use some additional caulk there,
too?
>
> Using a bar of soap standing out in the rain is looking pretty good right
> now!
>
> Thanks!
>
I believe that caulking will work. My base was not exactly level and the
gap between the glass shower walls and the base went from zero to about a
1/2 in. I filled it in with a good silicone caulking and in almost 2 yrs.
haven't had any leaks.
MLD





Posted by PipeDown on July 14, 2005, 7:23 pm


Using Caulk to fill 1/2" gap seems like it be a bit too big .

Not sure if I am visualizing your situation correctly though.

The contractor could have adjusted things to make sure the door would fit.
Did he know what you were planning to do?



> Shower pan failed - tore out the old pan and about half of the tile (about
> three feet up on each wall) - new tile and pan installed by a contractor -
> I'm reinstalling the old shower door, and it looks like the width of the
> shower sill (where the bottom runner of the shower door goes) is about 1/2
> inch wider than where the top rail of the shower door goes. Not sure if
> it
> was like this previously, or if the hardiboard the tile guy used on the
> repair would be different from the original crap put in when the house was
> built 20+ years ago.
>
> 1 - if I just center the bottom rail on the sill, will some extra caulking
> at each end of the bottom rail take care of the width problem and prevent
> leaks?
>
> 2 - I'm assuming that the vertical rails need to be true (straight up and
> down) so the door hangs correctly - since the walls aren't square, could I
> just shim the vertical rails slightly at the bottom to make sure they're
> lined up correctly - guess I'd have to use some additional caulk there,
> too?
>
> Using a bar of soap standing out in the rain is looking pretty good right
> now!
>
> Thanks!
>
>




Posted by New Comcast News Server on July 14, 2005, 6:26 pm


It'd be more like 1/4 inch on each side of the base - I didn't specifically
tell the guy that did the tile that we were going to put in a shower door,
but he had to know - there's now way a shower curtain would work in this
situation - and the holes were there (in the tile that wasn't replaced) from
when we took down the door before starting to bust up the floor.

> Using Caulk to fill 1/2" gap seems like it be a bit too big .
>
> Not sure if I am visualizing your situation correctly though.
>
> The contractor could have adjusted things to make sure the door would fit.
> Did he know what you were planning to do?
>
>
>
> > Shower pan failed - tore out the old pan and about half of the tile
(about
> > three feet up on each wall) - new tile and pan installed by a
contractor -
> > I'm reinstalling the old shower door, and it looks like the width of the
> > shower sill (where the bottom runner of the shower door goes) is about
1/2
> > inch wider than where the top rail of the shower door goes. Not sure if
> > it
> > was like this previously, or if the hardiboard the tile guy used on the
> > repair would be different from the original crap put in when the house
was
> > built 20+ years ago.
> >
> > 1 - if I just center the bottom rail on the sill, will some extra
caulking
> > at each end of the bottom rail take care of the width problem and
prevent
> > leaks?
> >
> > 2 - I'm assuming that the vertical rails need to be true (straight up
and
> > down) so the door hangs correctly - since the walls aren't square, could
I
> > just shim the vertical rails slightly at the bottom to make sure they're
> > lined up correctly - guess I'd have to use some additional caulk there,
> > too?
> >
> > Using a bar of soap standing out in the rain is looking pretty good
right
> > now!
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
>
>




Posted by PipeDown on July 14, 2005, 11:50 pm


1/4" In that case why not. Make sure the door is rigidly mounted first and
use masking tape to get a good straight line



> It'd be more like 1/4 inch on each side of the base - I didn't
> specifically
> tell the guy that did the tile that we were going to put in a shower door,
> but he had to know - there's now way a shower curtain would work in this
> situation - and the holes were there (in the tile that wasn't replaced)
> from
> when we took down the door before starting to bust up the floor.
>
>> Using Caulk to fill 1/2" gap seems like it be a bit too big .
>>
>> Not sure if I am visualizing your situation correctly though.
>>
>> The contractor could have adjusted things to make sure the door would
>> fit.
>> Did he know what you were planning to do?
>>
>>
>>
>> > Shower pan failed - tore out the old pan and about half of the tile
> (about
>> > three feet up on each wall) - new tile and pan installed by a
> contractor -
>> > I'm reinstalling the old shower door, and it looks like the width of
>> > the
>> > shower sill (where the bottom runner of the shower door goes) is about
> 1/2
>> > inch wider than where the top rail of the shower door goes. Not sure
>> > if
>> > it
>> > was like this previously, or if the hardiboard the tile guy used on the
>> > repair would be different from the original crap put in when the house
> was
>> > built 20+ years ago.
>> >
>> > 1 - if I just center the bottom rail on the sill, will some extra
> caulking
>> > at each end of the bottom rail take care of the width problem and
> prevent
>> > leaks?
>> >
>> > 2 - I'm assuming that the vertical rails need to be true (straight up
> and
>> > down) so the door hangs correctly - since the walls aren't square,
>> > could
> I
>> > just shim the vertical rails slightly at the bottom to make sure
>> > they're
>> > lined up correctly - guess I'd have to use some additional caulk there,
>> > too?
>> >
>> > Using a bar of soap standing out in the rain is looking pretty good
> right
>> > now!
>> >
>> > Thanks!
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>




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