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Silicone Caulk Greasy?

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Silicone Caulk Greasy? stan 06-11-2008
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Posted by stan on June 11, 2008, 5:37 am
I've got sort of a specail project going where I put the caulk on something
about the size of a half-dollar coin.

Imagine putting a small bead on the coin's face, then spreading it around
with your finger. What happens of course is the caulk fills in and covers
the small depressions while the higher area's (like the president's face)
you can see still see because your finger sort of "squegees" it off.

Now if I let the caulk cure on the coin for 24hrs what should I find on the
president's face? I would think nothing but there is actually a greasy
residue which I did not expect.

This is 100% silicone: http://www.caulkyourhome.com/sil2_kitchen_bath.html

I rub a blue colored old T-shirt on the raised area's of the coin and it
comes away darker like it was wet or greasy (even after 24hr cure). If I
put a small bead of caulk on a piece of paper (without smearing it) and let
it cure, it looks and feels rubbery like normal caulk with no greasy
residue, even if I pull it away from the paper.

Any thoughts on how this is occuring?



Posted by George on June 11, 2008, 6:52 am
stan wrote:
> I've got sort of a specail project going where I put the caulk on something
> about the size of a half-dollar coin.
>
> Imagine putting a small bead on the coin's face, then spreading it around
> with your finger. What happens of course is the caulk fills in and covers
> the small depressions while the higher area's (like the president's face)
> you can see still see because your finger sort of "squegees" it off.
>
> Now if I let the caulk cure on the coin for 24hrs what should I find on the
> president's face? I would think nothing but there is actually a greasy
> residue which I did not expect.
>
> This is 100% silicone: http://www.caulkyourhome.com/sil2_kitchen_bath.html
>
> I rub a blue colored old T-shirt on the raised area's of the coin and it
> comes away darker like it was wet or greasy (even after 24hr cure). If I
> put a small bead of caulk on a piece of paper (without smearing it) and let
> it cure, it looks and feels rubbery like normal caulk with no greasy
> residue, even if I pull it away from the paper.
>
> Any thoughts on how this is occuring?
>
>
Likely the acetic acid that was liberated during the curing process
attacked the metal. There are other formulations that are not peroxide
cure that will prevent that.

Posted by stan on June 11, 2008, 8:21 am

> stan wrote:
>> I've got sort of a specail project going where I put the caulk on
>> something about the size of a half-dollar coin.
>>
>> Imagine putting a small bead on the coin's face, then spreading it around
>> with your finger. What happens of course is the caulk fills in and
>> covers the small depressions while the higher area's (like the
>> president's face) you can see still see because your finger sort of
>> "squegees" it off.
>>
>> Now if I let the caulk cure on the coin for 24hrs what should I find on
>> the president's face? I would think nothing but there is actually a
>> greasy residue which I did not expect.
>>
>> This is 100% silicone:
>> http://www.caulkyourhome.com/sil2_kitchen_bath.html
>>
>> I rub a blue colored old T-shirt on the raised area's of the coin and it
>> comes away darker like it was wet or greasy (even after 24hr cure). If I
>> put a small bead of caulk on a piece of paper (without smearing it) and
>> let it cure, it looks and feels rubbery like normal caulk with no greasy
>> residue, even if I pull it away from the paper.
>>
>> Any thoughts on how this is occuring?
> Likely the acetic acid that was liberated during the curing process
> attacked the metal. There are other formulations that are not peroxide
> cure that will prevent that.


Ok thank you for educating me. The label for for GE silicone II caulk says
the curing process releases Methanol and Ammonia but I think that's not any
better. To add some more detail, this is actually an electronics
application but I just used the coin as an example of the surface. The
caulk/sealant will touch solder and a silver based paint (85% silver) which
need to remain un-corroded and electrically conductive.

I may need some type of electronics grade sealant but it has to have a
service temp of -40C to 110C when fully cured. Here are some things on my
short list:

star brite liquid electrical tape:

http://www.starbrite.com/sproductdetail.cfm?ID=1076


dow corning 744

http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=2127EN&DCCSF=1977EN&DCCSF=21EN


dow corning 3140

http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=109EN&DCCSF=1977EN&DCCSF=21EN




Posted by George on June 11, 2008, 10:26 am
stan wrote:
>> stan wrote:
>>> I've got sort of a specail project going where I put the caulk on
>>> something about the size of a half-dollar coin.
>>>
>>> Imagine putting a small bead on the coin's face, then spreading it around
>>> with your finger. What happens of course is the caulk fills in and
>>> covers the small depressions while the higher area's (like the
>>> president's face) you can see still see because your finger sort of
>>> "squegees" it off.
>>>
>>> Now if I let the caulk cure on the coin for 24hrs what should I find on
>>> the president's face? I would think nothing but there is actually a
>>> greasy residue which I did not expect.
>>>
>>> This is 100% silicone:
>>> http://www.caulkyourhome.com/sil2_kitchen_bath.html
>>>
>>> I rub a blue colored old T-shirt on the raised area's of the coin and it
>>> comes away darker like it was wet or greasy (even after 24hr cure). If I
>>> put a small bead of caulk on a piece of paper (without smearing it) and
>>> let it cure, it looks and feels rubbery like normal caulk with no greasy
>>> residue, even if I pull it away from the paper.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts on how this is occuring?
>> Likely the acetic acid that was liberated during the curing process
>> attacked the metal. There are other formulations that are not peroxide
>> cure that will prevent that.
>
>
> Ok thank you for educating me. The label for for GE silicone II caulk says
> the curing process releases Methanol and Ammonia but I think that's not any
> better. To add some more detail, this is actually an electronics
> application but I just used the coin as an example of the surface. The
> caulk/sealant will touch solder and a silver based paint (85% silver) which
> need to remain un-corroded and electrically conductive.
>
> I may need some type of electronics grade sealant but it has to have a
> service temp of -40C to 110C when fully cured. Here are some things on my
> short list:
>
> star brite liquid electrical tape:
>
> http://www.starbrite.com/sproductdetail.cfm?ID=1076
>
>
> dow corning 744
>
>
http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=2127EN&DCCSF=1977EN&DCCSF=21EN
>
>
> dow corning 3140
>
>
http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=109EN&DCCSF=1977EN&DCCSF=21EN
>
>
>
You are looking at the right stuff. Those Dow RTV products are
specifically designed corrosion sensitive applications. I think the 744
is likely the most appropriate one for the use you described.

Posted by David L. Martel on June 11, 2008, 8:25 am
Stan,

The coin analogy may be instructive. You know that coins are dirty and
greasy after they have circulated for a while so why do you think the grease
is a function of the caulk?
So, what are you actually caulking and why do you believe that it is
clean? I suspect that you are seeing a residue of crud from your coin that
has reacted with the acid of the caulk in some way.

Dave M.



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