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Simonton Prism Bronze vs. Reliabilt Survivor 5600

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Simonton Prism Bronze vs. Reliabilt Survivor 5600 DerbyDad03 08-16-2007
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Posted by DerbyDad03 on August 16, 2007, 7:31 am
Lowe's is running a special on the Reliabilt Survivor 5600 series -
free Low-E and Argon.

A contact at a local Norandex/Reynolds dealer suggested the Simonton
Prism Bronze series.

With all other features being equal (grids, screens, etc) and the
prices within a few dollars of each other, which window would be the
better choice?

They're going in a basic colonial in western NY where the owners plan
to live for 5 - 6 more years. The install will be a DIY project.

Thanks!


Posted by RickH on August 16, 2007, 12:17 pm
> Lowe's is running a special on the Reliabilt Survivor 5600 series -
> free Low-E and Argon.
>
> A contact at a local Norandex/Reynolds dealer suggested the Simonton
> Prism Bronze series.
>
> With all other features being equal (grids, screens, etc) and the
> prices within a few dollars of each other, which window would be the
> better choice?
>
> They're going in a basic colonial in western NY where the owners plan
> to live for 5 - 6 more years. The install will be a DIY project.
>
> Thanks!

The one with the more durable moving parts, sliders (if double hung),
hinges & cranks (if casement). In a few years you wont care a bit
about energy, but only if they lasted mechanically.



Posted by DerbyDad03 on August 16, 2007, 2:23 pm
>
> > Lowe's is running a special on the Reliabilt Survivor 5600 series -
> > free Low-E and Argon.
>
> > A contact at a local Norandex/Reynolds dealer suggested the Simonton
> > Prism Bronze series.
>
> > With all other features being equal (grids, screens, etc) and the
> > prices within a few dollars of each other, which window would be the
> > better choice?
>
> > They're going in a basic colonial in western NY where the owners plan
> > to live for 5 - 6 more years. The install will be a DIY project.
>
> > Thanks!
>
> The one with the more durable moving parts, sliders (if double hung),
> hinges & cranks (if casement). In a few years you wont care a bit
> about energy, but only if they lasted mechanically.

Thanks, Mr Obvious. Kidding! :-)

Specs such as U-factors and R-values are somewhat easy to find (I have
most of them, and they are comparable) but things like "the more
durable moving parts" aren't listed on any spec sheet. I was hoping
someone familiar with both brands could speak to that sort of stuff.



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