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Posted by Cliff Hartle on October 14, 2009, 5:32 pm
I think you have to think outside of the box.
Can you go down and then up some where else like where it will be easier to
run parallel to the joints?
There's nothing saying you have to take the direct route.
show/hide quoted text
>>> > blueman wrote:
>>> >> I need to run a wire from a switch on the wall up the wall and across
>>> >> the ceiling to a new overhead light. (Note that unfortunately, the
>>> >> joists run perpendicular to the direction that I need to traverse the
>>> >> ceiling)
>>> > ...
>>> >> Could anybody give me some detailed pointers ...
>>> > You may as well just cut an access strip 8-12" wide from the light
>>> > location to the wall to start and be done with it. It'll be simpler
>>> > to repair that uniform area w/ a couple of joints than having to patch
>>> > a zillion smaller holes. Once you've gotten access, getting around
>>> > the corner will be relatively simple.
>>> Removing the access strip will be a PITA since the wall is
>>> plaster/stucco over metal lathe (the wall is in a garage). Also, I
>>> probably only need to bridge 2 or 3 joists so I was thinking that with
>>> a flex bit I should only need a couple of holes.
>>> The challenge that I worry about though is at the corner between wall
>>> and celing since the joists are parallel to the wall so presumably
>>> there is a joist sitting on top of the top plate.
>>> I read somewhere that you can "notch" out a small area of the top
>>> plate bridging the wall with the ceiling and run the wire across it. I
>>> presume that you would need to cover the notch with a metal plate to
>>> be safe (and code conformant).
>>> Is this the best way or is there some way to drill a "diagonal" hole
>>> > Alternatively, use a surface-mount track or embed a track raceway just
>>> > below the depth of the surface and finish over it. If it's metal
>>> > raceway it'll be ok to hide it.
>>> I would prefer to avoid conduit or track.
>>> > Alternative two if there's any access to alternate wall and around,
>>> > sometimes one can go the long way 'round lengthwise w/ the joists and
>>> > find another way that there is access to get to the switch wall
>>> > location rather than the direct route. That, of course, depends on
>>> > the layout details not observable from here.
>>> The only other walls are exterior (it is a garage) which creates other
>>> issues (e.g., insulation) plus it is truly a long way around.
>> How about a wireless switch?
> Well the issue is more getting power to the light which I would need
> to do regardless. The switch is already there by the source of power.
> I just need to get power to the center of the ceiling to replace an
> old wall mounted sconce which is in the way and dangerous since it
> always gets hit by all the stuff moving in and out of the garage.
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Posted by blueman on October 16, 2009, 10:07 am
> I think you have to think outside of the box.
> Can you go down and then up some where else like where it will be easier to
> run parallel to the joints?
> There's nothing saying you have to take the direct route.
True. But the garage is on slab (so no good down). Also the other 3
walls are exterior walls so even harder to get around.
Up is hard because there is living space above and no attic.
Not saying it is impossible, but probably harder than the direct route
which is only about 5 feet up and 5 feet across the ceiling.
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Posted by clare on October 16, 2009, 3:19 pm
show/hide quoted text
>> I think you have to think outside of the box.
>> Can you go down and then up some where else like where it will be easier to
>> run parallel to the joints?
>> There's nothing saying you have to take the direct route.
>True. But the garage is on slab (so no good down). Also the other 3
>walls are exterior walls so even harder to get around.
>Up is hard because there is living space above and no attic.
>Not saying it is impossible, but probably harder than the direct route
>which is only about 5 feet up and 5 feet across the ceiling.
Gotta love slab construction, eh???
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Posted by blueman on October 20, 2009, 11:31 pm
clare@snyder.on.ca writes:
show/hide quoted text
>>> I think you have to think outside of the box.
>>> Can you go down and then up some where else like where it will be easier to
>>> run parallel to the joints?
>>> There's nothing saying you have to take the direct route.
>>True. But the garage is on slab (so no good down). Also the other 3
>>walls are exterior walls so even harder to get around.
>>Up is hard because there is living space above and no attic.
>>Not saying it is impossible, but probably harder than the direct route
>>which is only about 5 feet up and 5 feet across the ceiling.
> Gotta love slab construction, eh???
Absolutely.
But in my case, the main part of the house (150 years old) has a
basement (with brick columns - pre-Lolly days). The kitchen "wing"
which is 200+ years old is built over a crawl space and the adjoining
garage which is part of the same "wing" but obviously was
"retrofitted" in is just an (old) concrete slab with no crawl space
below.
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Posted by DD_BobK on October 14, 2009, 11:25 am
show/hide quoted text
> I need to run a wire from a switch on the wall up the wall and across
> the ceiling to a new overhead light. (Note that unfortunately, the
> joists run perpendicular to the direction that I need to traverse the cei=
ling)
show/hide quoted text
> Doing so presents the following two problems for me:
> 1. How do I make the right angle turn through the top plate and into
> =A0 =A0the ceiling joist bay?
> 2. How do I go through the joists as I traverse the ceiling from the
> =A0 =A0wall edge to the center light location?
> Note I don't have the option of using an unfinished attic or basement
> to help me. I am trying to avoid ripping up more plaster than I need to.
> I plan on buying a long flexible 1/2" bit which I believe should at
> least help me with #2, though I'm a bit short on the details of where
> I drill the entry and exit holes and how I achieve the right bend and
> angle to go through the middle of the joist.
> However, I am a lot more stumped about how I make the right angle
> transition from the wall bay into the ceiling joist bay.
> Could anybody give me some detailed pointers and/or point me to any
> online videos? (I tried googling but found only general suggestions
> such as using a flex bit)
> Thanks
Blueman-
My buddy & I just did a very similar job recently; can lights.
The attic was accessible but not really; blown-in insulation & roof
line that gave less than a foot clearance. We tried for about 1/2 hr
to "fish / poke" the romex from ceiling box over to a closet access
hole in the ceiling with no luck.
I suggested (as did dpb to you) an access strip. My partner didnt
want the mess or repair. I offered an 5" access hole 1/2 way from the
ceiling box to the wall. We had the wire fished in less than 5 minutes
after cutting the hole (can light hole saw). Simple repair and no
trace.
Depending on the distance I would suggested the "strip method" or a
couple access holes (just avoid the joists)
If only the wall is that stucco stuff then an access hole at the top
of the wall & a strip on the ceiling (drywall?)
A diamond blade on a skilsaw or angle grinder will make short work of
the plaster, stucco, metal lathe. Use a helper with a shop vac or
duct tape the hose to the tool to get the dust.
Cut the access.....you'll be glad you did.
cheers
Bob
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>>> >> I need to run a wire from a switch on the wall up the wall and across
>>> >> the ceiling to a new overhead light. (Note that unfortunately, the
>>> >> joists run perpendicular to the direction that I need to traverse the
>>> >> ceiling)
>>> > ...
>>> >> Could anybody give me some detailed pointers ...
>>> > You may as well just cut an access strip 8-12" wide from the light
>>> > location to the wall to start and be done with it. It'll be simpler
>>> > to repair that uniform area w/ a couple of joints than having to patch
>>> > a zillion smaller holes. Once you've gotten access, getting around
>>> > the corner will be relatively simple.
>>> Removing the access strip will be a PITA since the wall is
>>> plaster/stucco over metal lathe (the wall is in a garage). Also, I
>>> probably only need to bridge 2 or 3 joists so I was thinking that with
>>> a flex bit I should only need a couple of holes.
>>> The challenge that I worry about though is at the corner between wall
>>> and celing since the joists are parallel to the wall so presumably
>>> there is a joist sitting on top of the top plate.
>>> I read somewhere that you can "notch" out a small area of the top
>>> plate bridging the wall with the ceiling and run the wire across it. I
>>> presume that you would need to cover the notch with a metal plate to
>>> be safe (and code conformant).
>>> Is this the best way or is there some way to drill a "diagonal" hole
>>> > Alternatively, use a surface-mount track or embed a track raceway just
>>> > below the depth of the surface and finish over it. If it's metal
>>> > raceway it'll be ok to hide it.
>>> I would prefer to avoid conduit or track.
>>> > Alternative two if there's any access to alternate wall and around,
>>> > sometimes one can go the long way 'round lengthwise w/ the joists and
>>> > find another way that there is access to get to the switch wall
>>> > location rather than the direct route. That, of course, depends on
>>> > the layout details not observable from here.
>>> The only other walls are exterior (it is a garage) which creates other
>>> issues (e.g., insulation) plus it is truly a long way around.
>> How about a wireless switch?
> Well the issue is more getting power to the light which I would need
> to do regardless. The switch is already there by the source of power.
> I just need to get power to the center of the ceiling to replace an
> old wall mounted sconce which is in the way and dangerous since it
> always gets hit by all the stuff moving in and out of the garage.