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Snake wire from wall to ceiling blueman 10-14-2009
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Posted by blueman on October 14, 2009, 12:24 pm



>> I need to run a wire from a switch on the wall up the wall and across
>> the ceiling to a new overhead light. (Note that unfortunately, the
>> joists run perpendicular to the direction that I need to traverse the ceiling)
>> Doing so presents the following two problems for me:
>> 1. How do I make the right angle turn through the top plate and into
>>    the ceiling joist bay?
>> 2. How do I go through the joists as I traverse the ceiling from the
>>    wall edge to the center light location?
>> Note I don't have the option of using an unfinished attic or basement
>> to help me. I am trying to avoid ripping up more plaster than I need to.
>> I plan on buying a long flexible 1/2" bit which I believe should at
>> least help me with #2, though I'm a bit short on the details of where
>> I drill the entry and exit holes and how I achieve the right bend and
>> angle to go through the middle of the joist.
>> However, I am a lot more stumped about how I make the right angle
>> transition from the wall bay into the ceiling joist bay.
>> Could anybody give me some detailed pointers and/or point me to any
>> online videos? (I tried googling but found only general suggestions
>> such as using a flex bit)
>> Thanks
> Blueman-
> My buddy & I just did a very similar job recently; can lights.
> The attic was accessible but not really; blown-in insulation & roof
> line that gave less than a foot clearance. We tried for about 1/2 hr
> to "fish / poke" the romex from ceiling box over to a closet access
> hole in the ceiling with no luck.
> I suggested (as did dpb to you) an access strip. My partner didnt
> want the mess or repair. I offered an 5" access hole 1/2 way from the
> ceiling box to the wall. We had the wire fished in less than 5 minutes
> after cutting the hole (can light hole saw). Simple repair and no
> trace.
> Depending on the distance I would suggested the "strip method" or a
> couple access holes (just avoid the joists)
> If only the wall is that stucco stuff then an access hole at the top
> of the wall & a strip on the ceiling (drywall?)
> A diamond blade on a skilsaw or angle grinder will make short work of
> the plaster, stucco, metal lathe. Use a helper with a shop vac or
> duct tape the hose to the tool to get the dust.
> Cut the access.....you'll be glad you did.

Yes I agree. The question for me is just how to minimize. The ceiling
also appears to be a similar plaster & wire lathe which is a PITA.

But my question is really more about how to get around the top plate
and joist at the wall/ceiling junction.

The only solution I have seen so far is to "notch" the top-plate (and
perhaps a tiny bit of the joist resting on the top plate) which then
get covered with a metal plate before plastering over.

I just want to make sure that this is the best/easiest/safest way for
doing what I am trying to do (assuming that I want the wire to be
concealed within the wall & ceiling cavities).

Again, I'm sure that with removing enough material, I could do
anything. I'm just trying to learn the tricks-of-the-trade so that I
don't do any unnecessary demolition or do anything
unsafe/unprofessional-looking.

Posted by RicodJour on October 14, 2009, 12:29 pm


> Yes I agree. The question for me is just how to minimize. The ceiling
> also appears to be a similar plaster & wire lathe which is a PITA.
> But my question is really more about how to get around the top plate
> and joist at the wall/ceiling junction.
> The only solution I have seen so far is to "notch" the top-plate (and
> perhaps a tiny bit of the joist resting on the top plate) which then
> get covered with a metal plate before plastering over.
> I just want to make sure that this is the best/easiest/safest way for
> doing what I am trying to do (assuming that I want the wire to be
> concealed within the wall & ceiling cavities).
> Again, I'm sure that with removing enough material, I could do
> anything. I'm just trying to learn the tricks-of-the-trade so that I
> don't do any unnecessary demolition or do anything
> unsafe/unprofessional-looking.

{tapping microphone}
Testing, testing, one, two, three. Hello, can you hear me?

What about a wireless switch? If you have access above the light
location, you probably don't need to cut any holes in the ceiling
(other than the ceiling outlet) or wall.

R

Posted by blueman on October 14, 2009, 1:11 pm



>> Yes I agree. The question for me is just how to minimize. The ceiling
>> also appears to be a similar plaster & wire lathe which is a PITA.
>> But my question is really more about how to get around the top plate
>> and joist at the wall/ceiling junction.
>> The only solution I have seen so far is to "notch" the top-plate (and
>> perhaps a tiny bit of the joist resting on the top plate) which then
>> get covered with a metal plate before plastering over.
>> I just want to make sure that this is the best/easiest/safest way for
>> doing what I am trying to do (assuming that I want the wire to be
>> concealed within the wall & ceiling cavities).
>> Again, I'm sure that with removing enough material, I could do
>> anything. I'm just trying to learn the tricks-of-the-trade so that I
>> don't do any unnecessary demolition or do anything
>> unsafe/unprofessional-looking.
> {tapping microphone}
> Testing, testing, one, two, three. Hello, can you hear me?
> What about a wireless switch? If you have access above the light
> location, you probably don't need to cut any holes in the ceiling
> (other than the ceiling outlet) or wall.

No access or power to area above light location. The trick is getting
power to the center of the ceiling with or without a switch.

Posted by dpb on October 14, 2009, 12:59 pm


blueman wrote:
...

> But my question is really more about how to get around the top plate
> and joist at the wall/ceiling junction.
>
> The only solution I have seen so far is to "notch" the top-plate (and
> perhaps a tiny bit of the joist resting on the top plate) which then
> get covered with a metal plate before plastering over.
>
> I just want to make sure that this is the best/easiest/safest way for
> doing what I am trying to do (assuming that I want the wire to be
> concealed within the wall & ceiling cavities).
...

W/O actually seeing to tell if there's a trick to be used for a specific
situation, the answer is what you've already been told--make enough
access for the job--it's simpler and will look "more professional" in
the end to have the two seams patched than a whole bunch of 'em--and
you're going to have to drill all the joists anyway to get thru 'em
unless you do go under.

As for the corner, it's take your pick -- you can drill an access hole
large enough to fish from the switch location to catch the fish from the
ceiling and pull it through or notch -- it's your call as to what you
think is simpler. There really isn't a whole lot to choose; imo
drilling the holes is generally easier than trying to cut a notch but
that's me; others like the other.

Excessively worrying about avoiding demolition is the sign of the
inexperienced/diy'er--the pro just goes ahead and does what's needed w/o
the agonizing and finishes the job at hand because he knows how to do
the finish. The diy'er isn't comfortable w/ the plaster work or
whatever so tries to figure out ways that he thinks can avoid something
but rarely is that as successful as just biting the bullet.

imo, $0.02, etc., etc., ...

--

Posted by blueman on October 14, 2009, 1:10 pm


> blueman wrote:
> ...
>> But my question is really more about how to get around the top plate
>> and joist at the wall/ceiling junction.
>> The only solution I have seen so far is to "notch" the top-plate (and
>> perhaps a tiny bit of the joist resting on the top plate) which then
>> get covered with a metal plate before plastering over.
>> I just want to make sure that this is the best/easiest/safest way for
>> doing what I am trying to do (assuming that I want the wire to be
>> concealed within the wall & ceiling cavities).
> ...
> W/O actually seeing to tell if there's a trick to be used for a
> specific situation, the answer is what you've already been told--make
> enough access for the job--it's simpler and will look "more
> professional" in the end to have the two seams patched than a whole
> bunch of 'em--and you're going to have to drill all the joists anyway
> to get thru 'em unless you do go under.
> As for the corner, it's take your pick -- you can drill an access hole
> large enough to fish from the switch location to catch the fish from
> the ceiling and pull it through or notch -- it's your call as to what
> you think is simpler. There really isn't a whole lot to choose; imo
> drilling the holes is generally easier than trying to cut a notch but
> that's me; others like the other.
This is what I wanted to know.
I didn't want to go around notching or drilling only to find out a few
days later that I violated a key code item or created structural
integrity issues.


> Excessively worrying about avoiding demolition is the sign of the
> inexperienced/diy'er--the pro just goes ahead and does what's needed
> w/o the agonizing and finishes the job at hand because he knows how to
> do the finish. The diy'er isn't comfortable w/ the plaster work or
> whatever so tries to figure out ways that he thinks can avoid
> something but rarely is that as successful as just biting the bullet.
> imo, $0.02, etc., etc., ...

You are partly right - but I am pretty experienced at least relative
to my peers though maybe not relative to all the experts here.
However, I do like to learn and do things right -- and I hate when I
do something impulsively only to find out a little later that there
was an easier/better way to do it -- or even worse to find out that my
solution is unsafe or won't last requiring rework.

I believe in measuring several times before cutting... because I have
been burned many times when I rush to cut first...

Page 3 of 15       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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