If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by blueman on October 14, 2009, 6:59 pm
>>snip<
>> For plaster
>> and lathe I think that you might be better off using a carbide hole saw or
>> an angle grinder.
> If you are trying to cut through a lathe, a Victor cutting torch and
> #2 tip would work better. A shade 8 shield for the eyes is good, as
> well as leather gloves and apron.
> OTOH, if the OP is working with expanded metal lath and plaster, then
What has been working pretty well so far is a tile-cutting roto-zip
blade in by Ryobi (yeah I know low end) cordless zip tool.
Other drywall & wood bits got burned up in no time just in the plaster
alone even before reaching the metal lathe, but the "diamond" blade is
made for tile, cementous board, and plaster so it cuts really well.
|
|
Posted by John Grabowski on October 14, 2009, 7:26 pm
>>> For plaster
>>> and lathe I think that you might be better off using a carbide hole saw
>>> or
>>> an angle grinder.
>> If you are trying to cut through a lathe, a Victor cutting torch and
>> #2 tip would work better. A shade 8 shield for the eyes is good, as
>> well as leather gloves and apron.
>> OTOH, if the OP is working with expanded metal lath and plaster, then
> What has been working pretty well so far is a tile-cutting roto-zip
> blade in by Ryobi (yeah I know low end) cordless zip tool.
> Other drywall & wood bits got burned up in no time just in the plaster
> alone even before reaching the metal lathe, but the "diamond" blade is
> made for tile, cementous board, and plaster so it cuts really well.
*If you can spare the time how about taking some photos of the job as you go
along and post them when you are finished. It's not too often that we get
to see a 150 year old house.
|
|
Posted by blueman on October 16, 2009, 10:09 am
>>>> For plaster
>>>> and lathe I think that you might be better off using a carbide
>>>> hole saw or
>>>> an angle grinder.
>>> If you are trying to cut through a lathe, a Victor cutting torch and
>>> #2 tip would work better. A shade 8 shield for the eyes is good, as
>>> well as leather gloves and apron.
>>> OTOH, if the OP is working with expanded metal lath and plaster, then
>> What has been working pretty well so far is a tile-cutting roto-zip
>> blade in by Ryobi (yeah I know low end) cordless zip tool.
>> Other drywall & wood bits got burned up in no time just in the plaster
>> alone even before reaching the metal lathe, but the "diamond" blade is
>> made for tile, cementous board, and plaster so it cuts really well.
> *If you can spare the time how about taking some photos of the job as
> you go along and post them when you are finished. It's not too often
> that we get to see a 150 year old house.
Sorry - I ended up finishing before I read your post. I will post a
full account though. Actually the part of the house I was working on
is reportedly from the late 1700's so actually more than 200 years old
though there are no good records going back that far in our town.
|
|
Posted by WW on October 14, 2009, 4:47 pm
>I need to run a wire from a switch on the wall up the wall and across
> the ceiling to a new overhead light. (Note that unfortunately, the
> joists run perpendicular to the direction that I need to traverse the
> ceiling)
> Doing so presents the following two problems for me:
> 1. How do I make the right angle turn through the top plate and into
> the ceiling joist bay?
> 2. How do I go through the joists as I traverse the ceiling from the
> wall edge to the center light location?
> Note I don't have the option of using an unfinished attic or basement
> to help me. I am trying to avoid ripping up more plaster than I need to.
> I plan on buying a long flexible 1/2" bit which I believe should at
> least help me with #2, though I'm a bit short on the details of where
> I drill the entry and exit holes and how I achieve the right bend and
> angle to go through the middle of the joist.
> However, I am a lot more stumped about how I make the right angle
> transition from the wall bay into the ceiling joist bay.
> Could anybody give me some detailed pointers and/or point me to any
> online videos? (I tried googling but found only general suggestions
> such as using a flex bit)
> Thanks
After reading all the other replies use wire mould. You could have it done
in a little more time than reading these replies. WW
|
|
Posted by dpb on October 14, 2009, 5:42 pm
WW wrote:
...
> After reading all the other replies use wire mould. You could have it done
> in a little more time than reading these replies. WW
...
First suggestion...rejected.
--
|
Page 5 of 15 < 1 2 3 > last >>
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Three wire electric oven, four wire wall? | September 30, 2007, 4:29 pm |
| RED electrical wire in ceiling junction box | November 24, 2008, 7:42 pm |
| ceiling fan: what's the black wire with the white stripe? | July 17, 2006, 1:15 pm |
| QUESTION: Ceiling fixture wire colors | July 30, 2006, 9:40 pm |
| Running wire through block wall? | November 9, 2008, 12:59 am |
| What minimum gauge wire can use in extending circuit for ceiling fan? | June 17, 2006, 4:36 pm |
| Running wire in finished ceiling on main floor | August 21, 2008, 2:35 pm |
| Suspended ceiling wall molding | June 30, 2007, 8:30 pm |
| retro wall and ceiling texture help | May 12, 2006, 11:30 pm |
| Ceiling Fan wall remote with 3 way switch? | September 26, 2007, 6:25 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
>> For plaster
>> and lathe I think that you might be better off using a carbide hole saw or
>> an angle grinder.