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Snowblower Problem ? Robert11 02-03-2007
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Posted by Rich256 on February 3, 2007, 10:07 pm


Taylor wrote:
> Pop` wrote:
>
>> Rich256 wrote:
>>> professorpaul wrote:
>>>> For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new
>>>> one except maybe every three seasons.
>>>>
>>>> If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
>>>> left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
>>>> clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
>>>> should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.
>>>>
>>> Then, if you are in an area where they use ethanol drain all the gas
>>> and run the carb dry at the end of the season. Don't depend on
>>> stabil as the ethanol attracts water.
>> It's better to run the tank dry, but your comment on Stabil is just plain
>> silly. I've used it for years and the only downside is a little smoke the
>> first time it's started if one forgets to top off the tank. Plus maybe an
>> extra pull or couple seconds on the electric starter that first time.
>> Stabil is great for overwintering or oversummering.
>> When you don't know what you're talking about, don't talk about it.
>
> I'm sure you used Stabil for years with no problems, but this year is the
> first year for most snowblowers encountering ethanol in their fuel systems.
> Without ethanol, leaving the carb wet with stabilized fuel helped prevent
> seals and components from drying out and causing problems. With ethanol, the
> fuel system is under attack by both the corrosive nature of the alcohol and
> the moisture that it absorbs over time (both before and after you buy it and
> put it in your tank.
>
>
>
If it is your first year with ethanol you are fortunate. In the west we
have been stuck with it every winter. And the stations usually stock it
all year because the government give them a break on the ethanol.

Most users manuals have picked up the warning about leaving gas in the
tanks over summer due to the corrosion by the ethanol/water mix. They
specify that the tank should be drained.

Real Goods Solar, Inc.
Posted by mm on February 4, 2007, 6:38 pm


wrote:

>For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new one
>except maybe every three seasons.
>
>If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
>left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
>clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
>should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.

The bowl itself can be dirty and cause problems?

I would think it would be the jets, which are small.

Versus the bowl which is big, and where the new clean gasoline only
sits on top of any dirty residue for a few minutes until it goes into
the cylinders. Can new clean gas dissolve the dried up crud in the
bottom of the bowl? I would think not, or we wouldn't need carburetor
cleaner.


Posted by on February 7, 2007, 6:20 pm


> wrote:
>
> >For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new one
> >except maybe every three seasons.
>
> >If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
> >left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
> >clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
> >should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.
>
> The bowl itself can be dirty and cause problems?
>
> I would think it would be the jets, which are small.
>
> Versus the bowl which is big, and where the new clean gasoline only
> sits on top of any dirty residue for a few minutes until it goes into
> the cylinders. Can new clean gas dissolve the dried up crud in the
> bottom of the bowl? I would think not, or we wouldn't need carburetor
> cleaner.


You can have loose crud in the bowl that gets swirled around, then at
some point it gets sucked against one of the jets, engine dies.
Crud chunk is big enough it doesn't get stuck in the jet, it just
falls off and waits for its chance to do a repeat performance.

Dave


Posted by mm on February 8, 2007, 2:53 am


On 7 Feb 2007 15:20:26 -0800, spamTHISbrp@yahoo.com wrote:

>> wrote:
>>
>> >For starters, clean the spark plug. You generally don't need a new one
>> >except maybe every three seasons.
>>
>> >If you didn't run the blower engine dry at the end of the season, you
>> >left gas in the carb, which is likely the problem Drop the fuel bowl,
>> >clean it out with carb cleaner (spray can, any auto store). That
>> >should do it. Also, check the air filter, if there is one.
>>
>> The bowl itself can be dirty and cause problems?
>>
>> I would think it would be the jets, which are small.
>>
>> Versus the bowl which is big, and where the new clean gasoline only
>> sits on top of any dirty residue for a few minutes until it goes into
>> the cylinders. Can new clean gas dissolve the dried up crud in the
>> bottom of the bowl? I would think not, or we wouldn't need carburetor
>> cleaner.
>
>
>You can have loose crud in the bowl that gets swirled around, then at
>some point it gets sucked against one of the jets, engine dies.
>Crud chunk is big enough it doesn't get stuck in the jet, it just
>falls off and waits for its chance to do a repeat performance.

OK. Thanks. I'll have to look for that when it seems relevant.

P&M
>
>Dave


Posted by SJF on February 3, 2007, 6:04 pm



> Hello:
>
> Have a practically brand new Ariens snow blower with a Tecumseh engine.
> Used just a few times last year; worked perfectly.
> Having a bit of trouble this year. First time used this year, as we
> haven't had any snow to talk about.
>
> Starts right up, runs just fine for 5 to perhaps 8 minutes, and then
> stops.
> Easy to start again, then same thing: 5-8 minutes, and stops.
> And again.
>
> Not clogged.
> New gas.
>
> Doubt that it needs a new plug, as it's been used probably no more than
> half a dozen times since bought.
> Think it can be gummed up already ?
>
> Anyway was wondering if this "runs and then stops" symptom, for all you
> engine experts out there, might suggest what
> is wrong ?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob


Possibly a plugged gas tank vent. However, if the engine starts up well
immediately after a stall, the logic for this analysis fails. With a time
lapse after the stall, an incomplete blockage might pass enough air to
permit another run cycle.

SJF

SJF



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