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Spa wiring cdawley4 05-19-2007
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Posted by on May 19, 2007, 9:31 am
Hi,

I have an old spa that I am rebuilding. The pump is a 2 speed pump
that I want to wire directly to a light switch to turn it on or off.
I am not sure what type of switch I would need, as this pump has a low
speed and high speed. I also wanted to wire the heater circuit up to
its own switch and the light to its own circuit. The whole circuit
will be on a dedicated 20A GFCI breaker, as i will be wiring
everything to the same breaker. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks,

Chris


AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by on May 19, 2007, 10:23 am
On May 19, 8:31 am, cdawl...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have an old spa that I am rebuilding. The pump is a 2 speed pump
> that I want to wire directly to a light switch to turn it on or off.
> I am not sure what type of switch I would need, as this pump has a low
> speed and high speed. I also wanted to wire the heater circuit up to
> its own switch and the light to its own circuit. The whole circuit
> will be on a dedicated 20A GFCI breaker, as i will be wiring
> everything to the same breaker. Any suggestions would be helpful.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris



Since you're rewiring this thing and I presume eliminating the power
pack, I hope you have some rational plan for how you're going to
control the temp and have safety temp cutoffs incase the primary temp
control fails. My spa has the primary temp control by the power
pack, then a high temp cut off, and finally another high temp cutoff
on the heater itself. And you obviously need to mount the switches
in a safe and code compliant location.

All, in all, if it were me, I'd go buy a new power pack. Think
about what position you;d be in if something happened to a guest.

Is this a 120V or 240V spa? Since you're talking about a 20A circuit,
I would guess it's a 120V one, as the 240V units I've seen all require
40-50A. If it's a 120V, you need to be aware that you usually can't
have the heater on at the same time as the pump is on high speed. The
120V unit I'm familiar with had the power pack designed so only the
heater and low speed pump would go on to keep the current under 20A.


Posted by cdawley4 on May 19, 2007, 10:56 am
On May 19, 10:23 am, trad...@optonline.net wrote:
> On May 19, 8:31 am, cdawl...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > Hi,
>
> > I have an old spa that I am rebuilding. The pump is a 2 speed pump
> > that I want to wire directly to a light switch to turn it on or off.
> > I am not sure what type of switch I would need, as this pump has a low
> > speed and high speed. I also wanted to wire the heater circuit up to
> > its own switch and the light to its own circuit. The whole circuit
> > will be on a dedicated 20A GFCI breaker, as i will be wiring
> > everything to the same breaker. Any suggestions would be helpful.
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Chris
>
> Since you're rewiring this thing and I presume eliminating the power
> pack, I hope you have some rational plan for how you're going to
> control the temp and have safety temp cutoffs incase the primary temp
> control fails. My spa has the primary temp control by the power
> pack, then a high temp cut off, and finally another high temp cutoff
> on the heater itself. And you obviously need to mount the switches
> in a safe and code compliant location.
>
> All, in all, if it were me, I'd go buy a new power pack. Think
> about what position you;d be in if something happened to a guest.
>
> Is this a 120V or 240V spa? Since you're talking about a 20A circuit,
> I would guess it's a 120V one, as the 240V units I've seen all require
> 40-50A. If it's a 120V, you need to be aware that you usually can't
> have the heater on at the same time as the pump is on high speed. The
> 120V unit I'm familiar with had the power pack designed so only the
> heater and low speed pump would go on to keep the current under 20A.

I have the old pack, however, it is a 120V pack and is a Ramco 1115A.
Right now, the spa was given to me and I don't know if the thing even
works. Would hate to buy a new spa pack and find out that the spa
leaks or something. Rightfully, I should buy a 50A load center and
put in a 240V spa pack and then I know it would be the safest bet
being that everything is new. Altogether, it may cost me in the
neighborhood of $1000 for the spa pack, modifying the plumbing, and
possibly a new pump, if the old pump doesn't work. For all that
matter, I may be better off buying a new spa, if I am going to sink
that kind of money into it. I am trying to go the best way out
without having to put a lot of money into it.

Thanks,

Chris


Posted by on May 19, 2007, 1:07 pm
> On May 19, 10:23 am, trad...@optonline.net wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On May 19, 8:31 am, cdawl...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > > Hi,
>
> > > I have an old spa that I am rebuilding. The pump is a 2 speed pump
> > > that I want to wire directly to a light switch to turn it on or off.
> > > I am not sure what type of switch I would need, as this pump has a low
> > > speed and high speed. I also wanted to wire the heater circuit up to
> > > its own switch and the light to its own circuit. The whole circuit
> > > will be on a dedicated 20A GFCI breaker, as i will be wiring
> > > everything to the same breaker. Any suggestions would be helpful.
>
> > > Thanks,
>
> > > Chris
>
> > Since you're rewiring this thing and I presume eliminating the power
> > pack, I hope you have some rational plan for how you're going to
> > control the temp and have safety temp cutoffs incase the primary temp
> > control fails. My spa has the primary temp control by the power
> > pack, then a high temp cut off, and finally another high temp cutoff
> > on the heater itself. And you obviously need to mount the switches
> > in a safe and code compliant location.
>
> > All, in all, if it were me, I'd go buy a new power pack. Think
> > about what position you;d be in if something happened to a guest.
>
> > Is this a 120V or 240V spa? Since you're talking about a 20A circuit,
> > I would guess it's a 120V one, as the 240V units I've seen all require
> > 40-50A. If it's a 120V, you need to be aware that you usually can't
> > have the heater on at the same time as the pump is on high speed. The
> > 120V unit I'm familiar with had the power pack designed so only the
> > heater and low speed pump would go on to keep the current under 20A.
>
> I have the old pack, however, it is a 120V pack and is a Ramco 1115A.
> Right now, the spa was given to me and I don't know if the thing even
> works. Would hate to buy a new spa pack and find out that the spa
> leaks or something. Rightfully, I should buy a 50A load center and
> put in a 240V spa pack and then I know it would be the safest bet
> being that everything is new. Altogether, it may cost me in the
> neighborhood of $1000 for the spa pack, modifying the plumbing, and
> possibly a new pump, if the old pump doesn't work. For all that
> matter, I may be better off buying a new spa, if I am going to sink
> that kind of money into it. I am trying to go the best way out
> without having to put a lot of money into it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Not sure what plumbing you're talking about modifying. If you did
go with a new 240V powerpack, you may just have to change that, and
not the heater, pump, etc. That's how mine was set up. It uses the
same heater at 240V, it just puts 240V across it instead of 120V,
giving you 4X the watts. The pump, blower and light in mine all work
on 120V either way.

If it were me, I think I'd just rig up power to it temporarily to
verify what works and if it's worth salvaging.


Posted by Bob F on May 19, 2007, 1:17 pm

> On May 19, 10:23 am, trad...@optonline.net wrote:
>> On May 19, 8:31 am, cdawl...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> > Hi,
>>
>> > I have an old spa that I am rebuilding. The pump is a 2 speed
>> > pump
>> > that I want to wire directly to a light switch to turn it on or
>> > off.
>> > I am not sure what type of switch I would need, as this pump has
>> > a low
>> > speed and high speed. I also wanted to wire the heater circuit
>> > up to
>> > its own switch and the light to its own circuit. The whole
>> > circuit
>> > will be on a dedicated 20A GFCI breaker, as i will be wiring
>> > everything to the same breaker. Any suggestions would be
>> > helpful.
>>
>> > Thanks,
>>
>> > Chris
>>
>> Since you're rewiring this thing and I presume eliminating the
>> power
>> pack, I hope you have some rational plan for how you're going to
>> control the temp and have safety temp cutoffs incase the primary
>> temp
>> control fails. My spa has the primary temp control by the power
>> pack, then a high temp cut off, and finally another high temp
>> cutoff
>> on the heater itself. And you obviously need to mount the
>> switches
>> in a safe and code compliant location.
>>
>> All, in all, if it were me, I'd go buy a new power pack. Think
>> about what position you;d be in if something happened to a guest.
>>
>> Is this a 120V or 240V spa? Since you're talking about a 20A
>> circuit,
>> I would guess it's a 120V one, as the 240V units I've seen all
>> require
>> 40-50A. If it's a 120V, you need to be aware that you usually
>> can't
>> have the heater on at the same time as the pump is on high speed.
>> The
>> 120V unit I'm familiar with had the power pack designed so only the
>> heater and low speed pump would go on to keep the current under
>> 20A.
>
> I have the old pack, however, it is a 120V pack and is a Ramco
> 1115A.
> Right now, the spa was given to me and I don't know if the thing
> even
> works. Would hate to buy a new spa pack and find out that the spa
> leaks or something. Rightfully, I should buy a 50A load center and
> put in a 240V spa pack and then I know it would be the safest bet
> being that everything is new. Altogether, it may cost me in the
> neighborhood of $1000 for the spa pack, modifying the plumbing, and
> possibly a new pump, if the old pump doesn't work. For all that
> matter, I may be better off buying a new spa, if I am going to sink
> that kind of money into it. I am trying to go the best way out
> without having to put a lot of money into it.
>

Test the pump first by connecting a couple lengths of big hose to it
and running both to a big bucket or tub of water. Fill the pump with
water through one of the hoses, then power up the pump. It'll pump a
lot of water - especially at high speed. If it's already hooked up to
the tub, just fill the pump up and put enough water in the tub to
cover the water intake at least a few inches. Don't let the pump run
"Dry". It will quickly destroy the seals.

As someone else said, the pump will probably not run at high speed
with the heater on - unless you wire them on different circuit
breakers.

Make sure all metal parts are properly connected to the power ground
conductor.

You'll probably need two switches for the pump - one to turn it on
(SPST), and one to select the speed (SPDT). The first switch switches
the power on. The second routes it to the high speed or low speed
connection on the pump. Both the switches need to be rated for
switching motors of the pump motor HP or larger. If the pump is 1 HP,
you need a switch rated for 1HP or more.



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