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Staining pine screen/storm door frame

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Staining pine screen/storm door frame blueman 01-11-2007
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Posted by blueman on January 11, 2007, 10:09 pm


To try to keep with the character of our 150yr old home, I am
considering buying a real wood (pine) frame storm/screen door rather
than using the IMHO cheapie-looking aluminum or vinyl doors that just
bolt over the brick molding.

First, other than higher initial cost and the need for maintenance,
are there any other negatives to wood frame?

Second, I would like to stain the door to show off the wood and be
consistent with the stained wood main door.

Couple of questions:
- What stain should I use?
Is a regular Minwax stain (and sealer since pine) good enough for
such exterior use?

- What (clear) finish is most appropriate for protecting the door from
UV and other weather damage? (we live in the Northeast)
Would you use a spar urethane?
How many coats would you ud

Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product

Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on January 11, 2007, 10:28 pm



> Couple of questions:
> - What stain should I use?
> Is a regular Minwax stain (and sealer since pine) good enough for
> such exterior use?

Yes, they can work. Gel stains seem to work better on pine if you are using
a dark color.

>
> - What (clear) finish is most appropriate for protecting the door from
> UV and other weather damage? (we live in the Northeast)
> Would you use a spar urethane?
> How many coats would you ud

I've had good luck with Minwax Helmsman on some outdoor furniture. You need
at least three coats and you need a touchup every one to two years.

>
> Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
> the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
> anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product

I used Cetol Marine on a lounge chair I made from Cypress. I'm not impressed
and won't use it again. I don't like the way it went on, the way it
covered, and the way it is holding up after only a couple of years. I"ve not
used the door finish you speak of though; it may or may not be better.

I've used Penofin Oil on some Spanish cedar and mahogany furniture I've
made and I like the way it looks, the way it is holding up, the ease of
application, and the ease of putting on a coat every couple of years. Seems
to have good UV protection also. I've never used it on pine though.



Posted by Joe on January 11, 2007, 10:29 pm



blueman wrote:
> To try to keep with the character of our 150yr old home, I am
> considering buying a real wood (pine) frame storm/screen door rather
> than using the IMHO cheapie-looking aluminum or vinyl doors that just
> bolt over the brick molding.
>
> First, other than higher initial cost and the need for maintenance,
> are there any other negatives to wood frame?
>
> Second, I would like to stain the door to show off the wood and be
> consistent with the stained wood main door.
>
> Couple of questions:
> - What stain should I use?
> Is a regular Minwax stain (and sealer since pine) good enough for
> such exterior use?
>
> - What (clear) finish is most appropriate for protecting the door from
> UV and other weather damage? (we live in the Northeast)
> Would you use a spar urethane?
> How many coats would you ...
>
> Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
> the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
> anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product

Odds are the door maker knows more about finishing the product than
anyone in this NG. They have recommended a well-respected product, so
save yourself the hassle and just use it.
To get the color you want, experiment on the inside lower stiles.
Minwax is good stuff, but with pine, go easy on the stain, maybe even
get some similar pine boards to play with at the lumber yard. The top
finish will dictate the durability, so follow the Cetol directions to
the letter. Install with three high quality hinges, 7" from the top,
center, and 11" from the bottom. Good luck.

Joe


Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on January 11, 2007, 11:34 pm



> Odds are the door maker knows more about finishing the product than
> anyone in this NG. They have recommended a well-respected product, so
> save yourself the hassle and just use it.


Odds are, the door maker is getting paid by Cetol to tell you that.



Posted by Goedjn on January 12, 2007, 1:28 pm



>>
>> Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
>> the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
>> anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product
>

When we say that in computer helpdesk support, it means,
"We tried this, and it works, and if you screw it up we
can probably figure out how. You can use something
else if you want, but if it goes bad on you, you're
on your own."


Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >>
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