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Posted by dpb on October 9, 2009, 9:40 am
Bernie Hunt wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> I removed the carpet from our stairs and there are two treads that are
> split. I don't have access to the bottom due to a plaster ceiling
> underneath. The treads are high on the flight so both ends of the tread are
> encapsulated in a dado in the stringer. I'd like to remove and replace the
> treads.
>
> Getting the old tread out will be messy but quite possible. I figure to
> plunge cut into the middle with either a circular saw or a Fien with the
> right blade. My question is how to get the new tread installed?
>
> Any suggestions? I have a full woodworking shop, so very little is not
> possible. I've just never worked on a stair case with both sides
> encapsulated into the stringers before.
>
> Here is a picture of the left and right sides of the stair tread.
> http://www.cybertecservices.com/files/imag0110.jpg
> http://www.cybertecservices.com/files/imag0111.jpg
Show us the damage--my inclination would be as others to repair it
instead as first choice. Unless it's really bad, a glue joint may be
almost indistinguishable and as strong or stronger than the original
wood. (Done lots of antebellum renovations in VA; seen about as bad as
can get, salvaged most...)
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Posted by George on October 9, 2009, 9:40 am
wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>I removed the carpet from our stairs and there are two treads that are
>split. I don't have access to the bottom due to a plaster ceiling
>underneath. The treads are high on the flight so both ends of the tread are
>encapsulated in a dado in the stringer. I'd like to remove and replace the
>treads.
I did this on ours, but from the bottom. Plastering can be a rewarding
experience. Anyway, ...
I glued and screwed a piece of 3/4" plywood into the bottom of the
damaged treads, and then cleated that to the stair frame. (Be sure the
screws don't poke through.) I also screwed the risers into the back of
the treads.
So far (3 yrs), this has held up.
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Posted by DerbyDad03 on October 9, 2009, 9:52 am
show/hide quoted text
> wrote:
> >I removed the carpet from our stairs and there are two treads that are
> >split. I don't have access to the bottom due to a plaster ceiling
> >underneath. The treads are high on the flight so both ends of the tread =
are
show/hide quoted text
> >encapsulated in a dado in the stringer. I'd like to remove and replace t=
> >treads.
> I did this on ours, but from the bottom. =A0Plastering can be a rewarding
> experience. =A0Anyway, ...
> I glued and screwed a piece of 3/4" plywood into the bottom of the
> damaged treads, and then cleated that to the stair frame. =A0(Be sure the
> screws don't poke through.) =A0I also screwed the risers into the back of
> the treads.
> So far (3 yrs), this has held up.
> G
Something tells me that if I ever have to get under my stairs to
repair a damaged tread or 2, and then have to replace the drywall/
plaster, I'm gonna add supports under *every* tread so I never have to
go under there again.
All else being equal, if 1 or 2 treads split, I gotta assume others
will. Even if they weren't going to before, they will as soon as I
close up the opening.
God's like that sometimes.
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Posted by cshenk on October 9, 2009, 3:57 pm
"Bernie Hunt" wrote
show/hide quoted text
> Getting the old tread out will be messy but quite possible. I figure to
> plunge cut into the middle with either a circular saw or a Fien with the
> right blade. My question is how to get the new tread installed?
Thanks for the pics Bernie, helped alot. Worked on a house once with a
stairwell that looked much like that. The 'top stringer' that showed was
cosmetic. The real only support member was underneath. We removed it as it
was ugly and warped. Then we put corner molding along both sides. (the
risers were flush to the steps so this wasnt that hard).
Assuming however the 'stringer' isnt cosmetic (since you have a better view
in person, you'd know), then I'd take out the bad wood and cut a replacement
that will drop down and fit, but won't have the one side fit into the
stringer (fill that portion in with something).
Support by strong brackets to the bottom stringer (apply brackets, then
drop stair on them after fitting in at the other end). If the risers are
properly supported, put more brackets on the bottom of the stair. With
careful measuring, you can get a tight 'fit' so the stair doesnt wiggle (in
any direction) and with predrilled holes, you can attach to the lower riser
then cover with some sort of wood putty.
Cosmetics, I'd carefully paint the risers and restain the steps. The risers
do not appear to be the same level of pretty wood that the steps are.
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Posted by Bernie Hunt on October 9, 2009, 6:15 pm
cshenk,
That's the direction I'm headed. Get the old stair out and then brace all
the way around underneath. The left side of the stairwell, when assending,
is a wall all the way to the ceiling. The right side stops at floor level on
the second floor. So people will be looking to the right as the accend the
steps. I'll flll the left side dado so it's flush with the surface on the
stringer. Then I'll cut the new step to fit in the right side dado and lie
on the new cleat on the left side.
The one I showed you will be the easier one, the upper stair has the knwel
post sitting on it. I'll have to look at removing it.
Bernie
show/hide quoted text
> "Bernie Hunt" wrote
>> Getting the old tread out will be messy but quite possible. I figure to
>> plunge cut into the middle with either a circular saw or a Fien with the
>> right blade. My question is how to get the new tread installed?
> Thanks for the pics Bernie, helped alot. Worked on a house once with a
> stairwell that looked much like that. The 'top stringer' that showed was
> cosmetic. The real only support member was underneath. We removed it as
> it was ugly and warped. Then we put corner molding along both sides.
> (the risers were flush to the steps so this wasnt that hard).
> Assuming however the 'stringer' isnt cosmetic (since you have a better
> view in person, you'd know), then I'd take out the bad wood and cut a
> replacement that will drop down and fit, but won't have the one side fit
> into the stringer (fill that portion in with something).
> Support by strong brackets to the bottom stringer (apply brackets, then
> drop stair on them after fitting in at the other end). If the risers are
> properly supported, put more brackets on the bottom of the stair. With
> careful measuring, you can get a tight 'fit' so the stair doesnt wiggle
> (in any direction) and with predrilled holes, you can attach to the lower
> riser then cover with some sort of wood putty.
> Cosmetics, I'd carefully paint the risers and restain the steps. The
> risers do not appear to be the same level of pretty wood that the steps
> are.
>
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> split. I don't have access to the bottom due to a plaster ceiling
> underneath. The treads are high on the flight so both ends of the tread are
> encapsulated in a dado in the stringer. I'd like to remove and replace the
> treads.
>
> Getting the old tread out will be messy but quite possible. I figure to
> plunge cut into the middle with either a circular saw or a Fien with the
> right blade. My question is how to get the new tread installed?
>
> Any suggestions? I have a full woodworking shop, so very little is not
> possible. I've just never worked on a stair case with both sides
> encapsulated into the stringers before.
>
> Here is a picture of the left and right sides of the stair tread.
> http://www.cybertecservices.com/files/imag0110.jpg
> http://www.cybertecservices.com/files/imag0111.jpg