If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
|
Posted by cshenk on October 10, 2009, 9:00 am
"Bernie Hunt" wrote
show/hide quoted text
> cshenk,
>> Thanks for the pics Bernie, helped alot. Worked on a house once with a
>> stairwell that looked much like that. The 'top stringer' that showed was
>> cosmetic. The real only support member was underneath. We removed it as
>> it was ugly and warped. Then we put corner molding along both sides.
>> (the risers were flush to the steps so this wasnt that hard).
>> Assuming however the 'stringer' isnt cosmetic (since you have a better
>> view in person, you'd know), then I'd take out the bad wood and cut a
>> replacement that will drop down and fit, but won't have the one side fit
>> into the stringer (fill that portion in with something).
>> Support by strong brackets to the bottom stringer (apply brackets, then
>> drop stair on them after fitting in at the other end). If the risers are
>> properly supported, put more brackets on the bottom of the stair. With
>> careful measuring, you can get a tight 'fit' so the stair doesnt wiggle
>> (in any direction) and with predrilled holes, you can attach to the lower
>> riser then cover with some sort of wood putty.
> That's the direction I'm headed. Get the old stair out and then brace all
> the way around underneath. The left side of the stairwell, when assending,
> is a wall all the way to the ceiling. The right side stops at floor level
> on the second floor. So people will be looking to the right as the accend
> the steps. I'll flll the left side dado so it's flush with the surface on
> the stringer. Then I'll cut the new step to fit in the right side dado and
> lie on the new cleat on the left side.
> The one I showed you will be the easier one, the upper stair has the knwel
> post sitting on it. I'll have to look at removing it.
Can you get us a pic of that too then? Hey, the camera might not be perfect
but it works well enough and it's what you have. Perhaps we'll have some
workable ideas for you but have to see the post and railing.
I liked the idea of the riser access too but only if you are real sure there
isnt a support member behind it. Then again, I figured you had to remove a
stair tred anyways, so the riser access might be more work?
Tap carefully with a hammer (rubber mallet works better) all along the tops
of several stairs (healthy ones as well as bad ones) from left to right. If
there's a fairly consistant sound difference at some spot, usually middle,
then you have a 3rd structural stringer that you couldnt see because of the
plaster underside. There's good reason for it too as it's underside makes
the lath frame the plaster may have been attached to. It may *not* be in
the center. Say they had a bunch of that lath frame wood in scrappy form
that was 2 ft long (left over from some other part of building the house).
Stairwell looks like it's abut 3. Might be you find a 3rd support stringer
2ft from one side and about a foot on the other. Harmless and easy to tap
along several steps to see if you can tell something is there before you
open anything up.
I wish I had a picture to show you of what the underside might be since it's
plastered. Generally the frame that was plastered has a support frame with
I think it's no more than 18 inches. Similar to studs in a wall then cross
pieces you plastered. Methods varied with age of house. wikipedeia look
for lath and plaster.
|
|
Posted by cshenk on November 11, 2009, 9:21 am
"Bernie Hunt" wrote
show/hide quoted text
> cshenk,
> That's the direction I'm headed. Get the old stair out and then brace all
> the way around underneath. The left side of the stairwell, when assending,
> is a wall all the way to the ceiling. The right side stops at floor level
> on the second floor. So people will be looking to the right as the accend
> the steps. I'll flll the left side dado so it's flush with the surface on
> the stringer. Then I'll cut the new step to fit in the right side dado and
> lie on the new cleat on the left side.
Hi Bernie, I imagine it's done now? Curious how it went.
|
|
Posted by Tony on October 9, 2009, 7:35 pm
Bernie Hunt wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> I removed the carpet from our stairs and there are two treads that are
> split. I don't have access to the bottom due to a plaster ceiling
> underneath. The treads are high on the flight so both ends of the tread are
> encapsulated in a dado in the stringer. I'd like to remove and replace the
> treads.
>
> Getting the old tread out will be messy but quite possible. I figure to
> plunge cut into the middle with either a circular saw or a Fien with the
> right blade. My question is how to get the new tread installed?
>
> Any suggestions? I have a full woodworking shop, so very little is not
> possible. I've just never worked on a stair case with both sides
> encapsulated into the stringers before.
>
> Here is a picture of the left and right sides of the stair tread.
> http://www.cybertecservices.com/files/imag0110.jpg
> http://www.cybertecservices.com/files/imag0111.jpg
>
> Thanks,
> Bernie
I'd go with the drill, glue, and screw as others mentioned. If you want
to clamp it before installing the screw (I would), wedge a 2x4 between
the edge of the tread and the wall opposite (cut to length). If the
opposite wall is sheet rock or plaster, first use a 2x4 across 2 studs
so it doesn't poke a hole in the wall.
|
Page 6 of 6 << first < 1 2 3
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Repair cracked stair tread... | February 6, 2010, 10:42 pm |
| damaged stair tread - repair options? | November 10, 2006, 11:37 am |
| exterior stair replacement | June 26, 2009, 11:59 am |
| Slate tile staircase. Riser over tread or tread over riser. | October 10, 2006, 1:02 am |
| Tread brackets howto? | October 3, 2006, 10:45 am |
| Removing bullnose from tread in a notched stringer | May 5, 2008, 4:17 pm |
| Stair stringers | September 26, 2006, 8:01 pm |
| Stair railing | September 10, 2007, 3:28 pm |
| linoleum on stair | October 18, 2008, 9:41 am |
| stair rail height | July 21, 2005, 12:26 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
>> Thanks for the pics Bernie, helped alot. Worked on a house once with a
>> stairwell that looked much like that. The 'top stringer' that showed was
>> cosmetic. The real only support member was underneath. We removed it as
>> it was ugly and warped. Then we put corner molding along both sides.
>> (the risers were flush to the steps so this wasnt that hard).
>> Assuming however the 'stringer' isnt cosmetic (since you have a better
>> view in person, you'd know), then I'd take out the bad wood and cut a
>> replacement that will drop down and fit, but won't have the one side fit
>> into the stringer (fill that portion in with something).
>> Support by strong brackets to the bottom stringer (apply brackets, then
>> drop stair on them after fitting in at the other end). If the risers are
>> properly supported, put more brackets on the bottom of the stair. With
>> careful measuring, you can get a tight 'fit' so the stair doesnt wiggle
>> (in any direction) and with predrilled holes, you can attach to the lower
>> riser then cover with some sort of wood putty.
> That's the direction I'm headed. Get the old stair out and then brace all
> the way around underneath. The left side of the stairwell, when assending,
> is a wall all the way to the ceiling. The right side stops at floor level
> on the second floor. So people will be looking to the right as the accend
> the steps. I'll flll the left side dado so it's flush with the surface on
> the stringer. Then I'll cut the new step to fit in the right side dado and
> lie on the new cleat on the left side.
> The one I showed you will be the easier one, the upper stair has the knwel
> post sitting on it. I'll have to look at removing it.