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Subject Author Date
Sump Pump question Sudy Nim 01-04-2007
`--> Re: Sump Pump question Thomas D. Horne...01-07-2007
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Posted by Sudy Nim on January 4, 2007, 4:58 pm


Is it better to have the check valve located at the base of the pump
near the inlet or further away on the discharge pipe above the pump?
Also, would two check valves be of advantage, one at the base another
a couple of feet above the base? TIA



Posted by Todd H. on January 4, 2007, 5:04 pm



> Is it better to have the check valve located at the base of the pump
> near the inlet or further away on the discharge pipe above the pump?
> Also, would two check valves be of advantage, one at the base another
> a couple of feet above the base? TIA

One valve up, outside of the pit, is what you want. ANd don't forget
to drill a small air relief hole drilled in the discharge pipe an inch
above the pump angled down int othe pit. This prevents airlock.

You don't want the checkvalve screwing right into the pump. I recall
reading that explicitly in instructions, though I have to confess i'm
not entirely sure why. It may be that it prevents the inclusion of an
air relief hole, dunno.

--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/

Posted by hallerb@aol.com on January 4, 2007, 5:10 pm



Todd H. wrote:
>
> > Is it better to have the check valve located at the base of the pump
> > near the inlet or further away on the discharge pipe above the pump?
> > Also, would two check valves be of advantage, one at the base another
> > a couple of feet above the base? TIA
>
> One valve up, outside of the pit, is what you want. ANd don't forget
> to drill a small air relief hole drilled in the discharge pipe an inch
> above the pump angled down int othe pit. This prevents airlock.
>
> You don't want the checkvalve screwing right into the pump. I recall
> reading that explicitly in instructions, though I have to confess i'm
> not entirely sure why. It may be that it prevents the inclusion of an
> air relief hole, dunno.
>
> --


make cetrtain the area never freezes
> http://www.toddh.net/


Posted by EXT on January 4, 2007, 7:40 pm


I have found little need for a check valve. I live in an area that freezes
in winter. If you install a check valve it will hold water in the pipe
allowing it to freeze and then the pump cannot remove any water.

When I originally installed it without the check valve, I found that the
discharge end would end up submerged in the ditch and would siphon water
back into the sump causing it to cycle on/off every couple of minutes. I had
to break the siphon.

I decided that it was necessary to introduce air in the line to break the
siphon and to allow the 90 foot run to the ditch to drain. At the time they
didn't sell those devices for use in drains without a vent, but I had a
spare foot valve for a well pump, I cut a tee into the discharge pipe added
an 18 inch riser and installed the foot valve. When the pump pumps out the
foot valve is closed so no water leaks out, but as soon at the pump turns
off the weight of the water creates a vacuum which opens the foot valve and
lets in air that drains the pipes back to the pump and to the ditch. This
same foot valve has been in use with no problems since 1970. The only
disadvantage is when the valve opens it makes sounds like an old man with
bad gas, which isn't that bad, because when I hear the sound, I know it is
working.

> Is it better to have the check valve located at the base of the pump
> near the inlet or further away on the discharge pipe above the pump?
> Also, would two check valves be of advantage, one at the base another
> a couple of feet above the base? TIA
>
>



Posted by Doug Miller on January 5, 2007, 7:50 am


>I have found little need for a check valve. I live in an area that freezes
>in winter. If you install a check valve it will hold water in the pipe
>allowing it to freeze and then the pump cannot remove any water.

That's why you put the check valve indoors, and angle the pipe downward so it
will drain. I, too, live in an area that freezes in winter -- and I've
*never* had that problem. Your problem was caused by poor drainage of the
discharge line, not by the check valve.
>
>When I originally installed it without the check valve, I found that the
>discharge end would end up submerged in the ditch and would siphon water
>back into the sump causing it to cycle on/off every couple of minutes. I had
>to break the siphon.

That's why you use a check valve: so you don't siphon the ditch into your sump
pit.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

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