Home Page link

Sump water irrigation system

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 1 of 3       1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Sump water irrigation system dnoyeB 06-10-2008
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by dnoyeB on June 10, 2008, 9:25 am
I have decided to use my sump water for irrigating my yard. I will
combine 4x55 gallon plastic drums for a resevoir to give me enough
capacity to run 1/2 hour. So I don't plan on having a "pressure tank".
Ill let the pump manage the pressure. HOpefully that is feasible. Im
going to use a shallow well pump unless anyone has better suggestion.

A few questions though.


I understand I don't need a backflow prevention system since this must be
totally disconnected from municipal water.

IN this case, what type of valve to I need to allow this thing to be blown
out in the winter since currently the blow out ports are on my backflow
preventer. Where should I put this valve?

Where should I put shutoff valves? 1 on each side of the pump?

Do I need a sprinkler master valve now? That is, when the pump is off,
will water still pass through it? I assume so. And if I do need a master
valve, should this go before or after the pump?



Thanks!


CL

Posted by Bob F on June 10, 2008, 11:54 am

>I have decided to use my sump water for irrigating my yard. I will
> combine 4x55 gallon plastic drums for a resevoir to give me enough
> capacity to run 1/2 hour. So I don't plan on having a "pressure tank".
> Ill let the pump manage the pressure. HOpefully that is feasible. Im
> going to use a shallow well pump unless anyone has better suggestion.
>
> A few questions though.
>
>
> I understand I don't need a backflow prevention system since this must be
> totally disconnected from municipal water.
>
> IN this case, what type of valve to I need to allow this thing to be blown
> out in the winter since currently the blow out ports are on my backflow
> preventer. Where should I put this valve?
>
> Where should I put shutoff valves? 1 on each side of the pump?
>
> Do I need a sprinkler master valve now? That is, when the pump is off,
> will water still pass through it? I assume so. And if I do need a master
> valve, should this go before or after the pump?
>

It is important that there is no way the pump system can introduce water into
the city water system or your house system. If you are going to couple into the
sprinkler system you have, you will either have to disconnect the city water
from it or have multiple valves and backflow preventers (not just vacume
breakers). If you are going to disconnect it from the city water, how will you
deal with watering when the pump system fails or runs out of water?

You may be able to build the pump system with unions to allow easy disconnection
of the pump for winter so you can store the pump inside. Make sure the pump
lines will drain completely in this case. Some pumps are very sensitive to air
in the intake line, so you may want to design carefulle so that air is quickly
displaced by the water from the tank. Put valves where you will need they to
work on things without draining all your water.

A simple spring check valve might be enough to prevent water flow through the
pump when it is off, depending on the water height of the storage behind the
pump. A small pressure tank and pressure switch would solve this problem and
automate more of the process, making the system easier to use. Either way, you
do need a switch to shut down the pump when the water runs out, or you will
trash the pump.

200 gallons is going to be a pretty light watering unless each zone is pretty
small. Deeper watering encourages deeper roots.

Make sure your sump output has somewhere to go after the tanks fill if you are
using the sump pump to fill them.



Posted by dnoyeB on June 10, 2008, 1:04 pm
On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 08:54:23 -0700, Bob F wrote:

>>I have decided to use my sump water for irrigating my yard. I will
>> combine 4x55 gallon plastic drums for a resevoir to give me enough
>> capacity to run 1/2 hour. So I don't plan on having a "pressure tank".
>> Ill let the pump manage the pressure. HOpefully that is feasible. Im
>> going to use a shallow well pump unless anyone has better suggestion.
>>
>> A few questions though.
>>
>>
>> I understand I don't need a backflow prevention system since this must
>> be totally disconnected from municipal water.
>>
>> IN this case, what type of valve to I need to allow this thing to be
>> blown out in the winter since currently the blow out ports are on my
>> backflow preventer. Where should I put this valve?
>>
>> Where should I put shutoff valves? 1 on each side of the pump?
>>
>> Do I need a sprinkler master valve now? That is, when the pump is off,
>> will water still pass through it? I assume so. And if I do need a
>> master valve, should this go before or after the pump?
>>
>>
> It is important that there is no way the pump system can introduce water
> into the city water system or your house system. If you are going to
> couple into the sprinkler system you have, you will either have to
> disconnect the city water from it or have multiple valves and backflow
> preventers (not just vacume breakers). If you are going to disconnect it
> from the city water, how will you deal with watering when the pump
> system fails or runs out of water?

I know, thats why my first statement was that I will totally disconnect
from municipal water.
If there is no ground water, then the lawn will not get watered. I been
hear 5 years though, and the water is non-stop.

>
> You may be able to build the pump system with unions to allow easy
> disconnection of the pump for winter so you can store the pump inside.
> Make sure the pump lines will drain completely in this case. Some pumps
> are very sensitive to air in the intake line, so you may want to design
> carefulle so that air is quickly displaced by the water from the tank.
> Put valves where you will need they to work on things without draining
> all your water.

Hmm. The pump will run automatically. Do you think I will need a float
switch to shut it down in case the barrels empty for some reason?


>
> A simple spring check valve might be enough to prevent water flow
> through the pump when it is off, depending on the water height of the
> storage behind the pump. A small pressure tank and pressure switch would
> solve this problem and automate more of the process, making the system
> easier to use. Either way, you do need a switch to shut down the pump
> when the water runs out, or you will trash the pump.
>

Hmm. So I will need a float switch. I do have a spare pressure switch
from my sump, but I dont know how well that will work. Ill try a simple
float. But if there is something I can mount right on a piece of PVC that
would be excellent!?


> 200 gallons is going to be a pretty light watering unless each zone is
> pretty small. Deeper watering encourages deeper roots.

200 is only the resevoir. total watering will be more like 380 gallons.
And thats per zone.
The sump cant keep up with 18gpm so I add the reservoir to make up the
difference.


>
> Make sure your sump output has somewhere to go after the tanks fill if
> you are using the sump pump to fill them.

I will have an overflow that runs the water to where its going now. WHich
is down the hill into the stream in my backyard.



Thanks for the help. I went and got 3 55 gallon drums over lunch @$15
each. Former juice barrels. I'm on my way now.

Posted by Bob F on June 10, 2008, 6:01 pm

> On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 08:54:23 -0700, Bob F wrote:
>
>>>I have decided to use my sump water for irrigating my yard. I will
>>> combine 4x55 gallon plastic drums for a resevoir to give me enough
>>> capacity to run 1/2 hour. So I don't plan on having a "pressure tank".
>>> Ill let the pump manage the pressure. HOpefully that is feasible. Im
>>> going to use a shallow well pump unless anyone has better suggestion.
>>>
>>> A few questions though.
>>>
>>>
>>> I understand I don't need a backflow prevention system since this must
>>> be totally disconnected from municipal water.
>>>
>>> IN this case, what type of valve to I need to allow this thing to be
>>> blown out in the winter since currently the blow out ports are on my
>>> backflow preventer. Where should I put this valve?
>>>
>>> Where should I put shutoff valves? 1 on each side of the pump?
>>>
>>> Do I need a sprinkler master valve now? That is, when the pump is off,
>>> will water still pass through it? I assume so. And if I do need a
>>> master valve, should this go before or after the pump?
>>>
>>>
>> It is important that there is no way the pump system can introduce water
>> into the city water system or your house system. If you are going to
>> couple into the sprinkler system you have, you will either have to
>> disconnect the city water from it or have multiple valves and backflow
>> preventers (not just vacume breakers). If you are going to disconnect it
>> from the city water, how will you deal with watering when the pump
>> system fails or runs out of water?
>
> I know, thats why my first statement was that I will totally disconnect
> from municipal water.
> If there is no ground water, then the lawn will not get watered. I been
> hear 5 years though, and the water is non-stop.
>
>>
>> You may be able to build the pump system with unions to allow easy
>> disconnection of the pump for winter so you can store the pump inside.
>> Make sure the pump lines will drain completely in this case. Some pumps
>> are very sensitive to air in the intake line, so you may want to design
>> carefulle so that air is quickly displaced by the water from the tank.
>> Put valves where you will need they to work on things without draining
>> all your water.
>
> Hmm. The pump will run automatically. Do you think I will need a float
> switch to shut it down in case the barrels empty for some reason?
>
>
>>
>> A simple spring check valve might be enough to prevent water flow
>> through the pump when it is off, depending on the water height of the
>> storage behind the pump. A small pressure tank and pressure switch would
>> solve this problem and automate more of the process, making the system
>> easier to use. Either way, you do need a switch to shut down the pump
>> when the water runs out, or you will trash the pump.
>>
>
> Hmm. So I will need a float switch. I do have a spare pressure switch
> from my sump, but I dont know how well that will work. Ill try a simple
> float. But if there is something I can mount right on a piece of PVC that
> would be excellent!?

There are many kinds of switches available. Some may need a relay to power the
pump, and perhaps a low voltage power supply. Check at a good local hardware
store, especially one that supplies farmers. Where I am, the box stores don't
stock much of this kind of stuff.

>
>
>> 200 gallons is going to be a pretty light watering unless each zone is
>> pretty small. Deeper watering encourages deeper roots.
>
> 200 is only the resevoir. total watering will be more like 380 gallons.
> And thats per zone.
> The sump cant keep up with 18gpm so I add the reservoir to make up the
> difference.
>
>
>>
>> Make sure your sump output has somewhere to go after the tanks fill if
>> you are using the sump pump to fill them.
>
> I will have an overflow that runs the water to where its going now. WHich
> is down the hill into the stream in my backyard.
>
>
>
> Thanks for the help. I went and got 3 55 gallon drums over lunch @$15
> each. Former juice barrels. I'm on my way now.

Have you figured out how you will plumb to the barrels?



Posted by dnoyeB on June 11, 2008, 12:35 am
On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 15:01:22 -0700, Bob F wrote:
>>>
>>>
>> Hmm. So I will need a float switch. I do have a spare pressure switch
>> from my sump, but I dont know how well that will work. Ill try a
>> simple float. But if there is something I can mount right on a piece
>> of PVC that would be excellent!?
>
> There are many kinds of switches available. Some may need a relay to
> power the pump, and perhaps a low voltage power supply. Check at a good
> local hardware store, especially one that supplies farmers. Where I am,
> the box stores don't stock much of this kind of stuff.

Ill have to check the phone book. probably take a small drive.

>
>
>>
>>> 200 gallons is going to be a pretty light watering unless each zone is
>>> pretty small. Deeper watering encourages deeper roots.
>>
>> 200 is only the resevoir. total watering will be more like 380
>> gallons. And thats per zone.
>> The sump cant keep up with 18gpm so I add the reservoir to make up the
>> difference.
>>
>>
>>
>>> Make sure your sump output has somewhere to go after the tanks fill if
>>> you are using the sump pump to fill them.
>>
>> I will have an overflow that runs the water to where its going now.
>> WHich is down the hill into the stream in my backyard.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the help. I went and got 3 55 gallon drums over lunch @$15
>> each. Former juice barrels. I'm on my way now.
>
> Have you figured out how you will plumb to the barrels?

yea, i will connect them together near the bottom with 1 1/2" PVC and some
bulkhead fittings. Feed tube in the top and overflow in the side near the
top. overflow will be piped back to where the sump goes now.

Getting from the barrels to the sprinkler valves is a bit more tricky.
Need to consider blowing out, and mating to the copper pipe, and removing
pump and tanks for the winter.

Not sure how to ensure the pump runs steady and smooth while watering the
grass. most websites I read have the system using a pressure tank but i
don't want to spend that much.

Page 1 of 3       1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
irrigation system August 3, 2005, 7:29 pm
Irrigation system problem. March 11, 2008, 1:38 pm
Drip irrigation system keeps springing leaks?! August 13, 2006, 7:22 pm
Rust removal from well water irrigation May 13, 2006, 11:36 am
How do I install a sump radon vent system October 17, 2005, 6:00 pm
DIY Battery Backup Sump Pump System June 30, 2008, 9:42 am
water in my sump! December 3, 2006, 12:57 am
Calibration of Water Temp Instruments; Hot Water Heating System December 30, 2005, 10:47 am
Oil-fired Forced Hot Water System Leaks Water February 3, 2008, 7:30 am
Sump Water Hammer Problem December 13, 2005, 9:59 am

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap