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Posted by JimR on January 5, 2007, 4:37 pm
> Thank you to everyone that contributed on each board. While I haven't
> totally made up my mind about what I will do, and I have plenty of time to
> do that thankfully, I am leaning (due in part to opinions on these
> newsgroups) to staying traditional, with a 50 gallon high efficiency, Gas,
> Hot Water Heater with a long warranty.
[snip]
Having experience with both tankless and conventional, I much prefer
conventional. Consider this:
We have a standard large tanked water heater which serves kitchen, laundry
and two bathrooms. When we renovated the back half of the house we added a
small cabinet in the new hobby room with a second water heater tank inside
which serves only the adjacent master bathroom. This gives us hot water
within seconds.
( We also did a few other unconventional things such as adding an outdoor
sink and shower so that you can clean up and shower after working in the
garden or coming in from fishing. Since the "utilities" side of the house
(with the shower, plus nearby well pump, central air conditioners, etc.) is
behind a 6' concrete block and tile wall privacy is not a problem.)
With this experience, during any future renovation I'd consider another hot
water tank, perhaps a low-boy unit or attic unit, for almost-instant hot
water for one or more of the other bedroom suites -- Regards --
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Posted by on January 5, 2007, 9:05 pm
hallerb@aol.com says...
> My Takagi draws little enough current that if the power is out, I can
> > run it off the pocket-sized power inverter I keep in my car. No added
> > cost for that, I already had the inverter anyway.
> >
> > --
> > josh@phred.org is Joshua Putnam
>
> Odd the Takagi website doesnt list current consumption,'
It's in the PDF manual, towards the end.
> this makes me wonder about that big flue exhausting heated home air
> 24/7 all winter long... humm I wonder the same about my standard hot
> water tank and furnace, must be like leaving a big window open
> permanetely.
Haven't done a formal study of it, but while testing for drafts I blew
smoke around our water heater on a cold day, didn't have any noticeable
convection up the flue. But our flue is mostly horizontal, definitely
needs the blower.
Our long-range plan is to convert it to use outdoor combustion air once
we get around to the finished cabinetry in the pantry where it sits.
--
josh@phred.org is Joshua Putnam
<http://www.phred.org/~josh/>
Braze your own bicycle frames. See
<http://www.phred.org/~josh/build/build.html>
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Posted by on January 4, 2007, 11:50 pm
dmusicant@pacbell.net says...
>
> It works OK. I realize that at this point I'm on my own and I just hope
> it lasts a real long time because I don't presently like the idea of
> spending big bucks to fix or replace it.
>
Remember that when you do eventually need to replace it, you probably
won't be re-doing the gas plumbing, wiring, or potable water plumbing
for it. You'll just remove the old unit and install a new one.
Your N-069M-OD sells for under $1,000 on-line. My Takagi is under $900
these days. Replacement is simple enough you can do it yourself if
local code allows. (OK, be honest, how many people take out the
required permits to replace their tank water heaters?)
--
josh@phred.org is Joshua Putnam
<http://www.phred.org/~josh/>
Braze your own bicycle frames. See
<http://www.phred.org/~josh/build/build.html>
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Posted by Dan_Musicant on January 5, 2007, 9:23 pm
:dmusicant@pacbell.net says...
:>
:> It works OK. I realize that at this point I'm on my own and I just hope
:> it lasts a real long time because I don't presently like the idea of
:> spending big bucks to fix or replace it.
:>
:
:Remember that when you do eventually need to replace it, you probably
:won't be re-doing the gas plumbing, wiring, or potable water plumbing
:for it. You'll just remove the old unit and install a new one.
:
:Your N-069M-OD sells for under $1,000 on-line. My Takagi is under $900
:these days. Replacement is simple enough you can do it yourself if
:local code allows. (OK, be honest, how many people take out the
:required permits to replace their tank water heaters?)
Good point. I suppose if I still live here and my Noritz goes bad I
might well opt for a similar tankless to replace it since the gas and
plumbing are all right there, and they were AFAIK professionally and
well-installed. To put in a tank water heater would be problematical
because it would have to stand away from the wall at least enough to
clear the dryer vent. The contractor who authorized all this told me I
couldn't do that because I would not be able to strap and support the
tank. This is earthquake country.
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Posted by Dennis on January 8, 2007, 6:45 pm
Dan, there are straps made specifically to anchor water heaters not located
directly aganst a wall. In fact, most of the installations I've inspected
did not bear directly on the wall in back of the heater. In seismic D1 & 2,
you only need to strap in upper and lower 1/3 to withstand movement, and
there are many ways to accomplish this.
>well-installed. To put in a tank water heater would be problematical
> because it would have to stand away from the wall at least enough to
> clear the dryer vent. The contractor who authorized all this told me I
> couldn't do that because I would not be able to strap and support the
> tank. This is earthquake country.
>
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Page 6 of 7 < 1 2 3 > last >>
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