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Testing the heating element in a water heater garyward22 01-17-2007
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Posted by on January 17, 2007, 5:19 pm


I have a Solar panel connected to the Immersion heater and recently the
water temperature has dropped dramatically even with the Immersion
heater on. I have removed the element from the heater but would like
to test whether the element is working. is there a simple way of doing
it? The pipe at the top of the tank seems quite warm but not sure if
thats the panel heating it up or the immersion heater. Thanks


Posted by SMS on January 17, 2007, 5:33 pm


garyward22@hotmail.com wrote:
> I have a Solar panel connected to the Immersion heater and recently the
> water temperature has dropped dramatically even with the Immersion
> heater on. I have removed the element from the heater but would like
> to test whether the element is working. is there a simple way of doing
> it? The pipe at the top of the tank seems quite warm but not sure if
> thats the panel heating it up or the immersion heater. Thanks

Well it's easy to test if it's open, just use an ohm meter. The
resistance on a working heating element will be close to zero ohms.

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe a heating element is
either good or bad, there is nothing in the middle, it's either burned
out, or it's good.

Posted by on January 17, 2007, 5:37 pm


Actually wouldnt a reading of 0 ohms indicate a short? I thought the
way a heating element worked was due to resistance to current flow.
You definately dont want infinite resistance, as that indicates and
open...but if i remember correctly a good heating element on my dryer,
for example runs a few ohms resistance.

Please correct and cite me if im wrong...I could be..

Josh


SMS wrote:
> garyward22@hotmail.com wrote:
> > I have a Solar panel connected to the Immersion heater and recently the
> > water temperature has dropped dramatically even with the Immersion
> > heater on. I have removed the element from the heater but would like
> > to test whether the element is working. is there a simple way of doing
> > it? The pipe at the top of the tank seems quite warm but not sure if
> > thats the panel heating it up or the immersion heater. Thanks
>
> Well it's easy to test if it's open, just use an ohm meter. The
> resistance on a working heating element will be close to zero ohms.
>
> Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe a heating element is
> either good or bad, there is nothing in the middle, it's either burned
> out, or it's good.


Posted by trainfan1 on January 17, 2007, 8:41 pm


joshers17@hotmail.com wrote:

> Actually wouldnt a reading of 0 ohms indicate a short? I thought the
> way a heating element worked was due to resistance to current flow.
> You definately dont want infinite resistance, as that indicates and
> open...but if i remember correctly a good heating element on my dryer,
> for example runs a few ohms resistance.
>
> Please correct and cite me if im wrong...I could be..
>
> Josh

I'm quite sure "a few ohms resistance" is pretty damn near "close to
zero ohms".

Sounds like you guys are in agreement here...

Rob


Posted by Eric9822 on January 17, 2007, 10:13 pm


trainfan1 wrote:
> joshers17@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> > Actually wouldnt a reading of 0 ohms indicate a short? I thought the
> > way a heating element worked was due to resistance to current flow.
> > You definately dont want infinite resistance, as that indicates and
> > open...but if i remember correctly a good heating element on my dryer,
> > for example runs a few ohms resistance.
> >
> > Please correct and cite me if im wrong...I could be..
> >
> > Josh
>
> I'm quite sure "a few ohms resistance" is pretty damn near "close to
> zero ohms".
>
> Sounds like you guys are in agreement here...
>
> Rob

There is a very large difference between zero ohms and a few ohms,
zero ohms would draw an infinite amount of current. The resistance
should very low, i.e. around 12 ohms for a 3.8KW element supplied by
240V. I suggest you measure the resistance of the heating element and
then calculate the expected amp draw at the applied voltage. The
formula is voltage/divided by resistance or I=V/R (I is current). Then
find the KW by multiplying the voltage, the current, and the power
factor (I would assume .8) and then divide by 1000 or KW=V*I*.8/1000.
What you calculate should match the KW rating of the element. If it
does not there is a problem. I agree that heating elements usually
either work or they don't. I also agree with a previous poster that it
is possible to test on a bench by very briefly connecting a 220V or
110V source to test the element. The watchout is that the element will
heat up VERY rapidly and can cause an injury, a fire, or burn out the
element since it will not be immersed in water.


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