Home Page link

Testing the heating element in a water heater

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 2 of 2       << first < 1 2 Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Testing the heating element in a water heater garyward22 01-17-2007
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Eric9822 on January 17, 2007, 10:15 pm


trainfan1 wrote:
> joshers17@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> > Actually wouldnt a reading of 0 ohms indicate a short? I thought the
> > way a heating element worked was due to resistance to current flow.
> > You definately dont want infinite resistance, as that indicates and
> > open...but if i remember correctly a good heating element on my dryer,
> > for example runs a few ohms resistance.
> >
> > Please correct and cite me if im wrong...I could be..
> >
> > Josh
>
> I'm quite sure "a few ohms resistance" is pretty damn near "close to
> zero ohms".
>
> Sounds like you guys are in agreement here...
>
> Rob

There is a very large difference between zero ohms and a few ohms,
zero ohms would draw an infinite amount of current. The resistance
should very low, i.e. around 12 ohms for a 3.8KW element supplied by
240V. I suggest you measure the resistance of the heating element and
then calculate the expected amp draw at the applied voltage. The
formula is voltage/divided by resistance or I=V/R (I is current). Then
find the KW by multiplying the voltage, the current, and the power
factor (I would assume .8) and then divide by 1000 or KW=V*I*.8/1000.
What you calculate should match the KW rating of the element. If it
does not there is a problem. I agree that heating elements usually
either work or they don't. I also agree with a previous poster that it
is possible to test on a bench by very briefly connecting a 220V or
110V source to test the element. The watchout is that the element will
heat up VERY rapidly and can cause an injury, a fire, or burn out the
element since it will not be immersed in water.


Posted by RBM on January 17, 2007, 6:12 pm


If you have an open(no reading across the two terminals) on a VOM the
element is dead, you should get a resistance reading, depending upon the
wattage of the element. You could also apply 240 volts across the element
for about two seconds, and you'll know if its heating. You need to check the
thermostat on the heater, and if its a large tank it will have two elements
and two thermostats




>I have a Solar panel connected to the Immersion heater and recently the
> water temperature has dropped dramatically even with the Immersion
> heater on. I have removed the element from the heater but would like
> to test whether the element is working. is there a simple way of doing
> it? The pipe at the top of the tank seems quite warm but not sure if
> thats the panel heating it up or the immersion heater. Thanks
>



Page 2 of 2       << first < 1 2
Similar ThreadsPosted
Question on testing or removing heating element on GE Dryer February 11, 2005, 8:58 pm
Electric water heater - heating element design change.... February 4, 2007, 3:21 am
Hot water heater element August 28, 2007, 2:08 pm
burned water heater element July 12, 2006, 8:15 pm
Water Heater Element Replacement August 2, 2006, 12:36 pm
Bad water heater element, guests coming soon! August 21, 2006, 10:53 pm
Question about water heater element failure May 23, 2008, 10:01 am
Dishwasher heating element June 10, 2006, 7:57 pm
Forced air heating element October 16, 2006, 10:49 pm
Dryer heating element stays on January 16, 2006, 10:48 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap