Thicker ceramic tile?

Posted by Davej on January 5, 2009, 2:45 pm

Ceramic tile project -- and there are a few issues... years ago I did
some ceramic tile but the stuff then was thin and flat. Now I'm
feeling out of date. The tile I have now is 4/10 inch thick (maximum)
with a slight texture on the front surface and a grippy crosshatch
pattern on the back side. Scoring and breaking seems fairly
unreliable. What success rate should I be seeing? Also the serrated
trowels they sell now have big square notches. I'm doing a wall so
these square-notch trowels seem like a bad idea. Why the switch to
square notches? Any hints? Thanks.

Posted by on January 5, 2009, 3:00 pm

wrote:

>Ceramic tile project -- and there are a few issues... years ago I did
>some ceramic tile but the stuff then was thin and flat. Now I'm
>feeling out of date. The tile I have now is 4/10 inch thick (maximum)
>with a slight texture on the front surface and a grippy crosshatch
>pattern on the back side. Scoring and breaking seems fairly
>unreliable. What success rate should I be seeing? Also the serrated
>trowels they sell now have big square notches. I'm doing a wall so
>these square-notch trowels seem like a bad idea. Why the switch to
>square notches? Any hints? Thanks.

Square notch trowels are for thin set mortar, V notch are for mastic.
What are you using?
When tile starts to get out in the 10mm range, particularly in higher
grades of tile, scoring and snapping will require a very good tool,
not the el cheapo at the home store. Most pros will be using a wet
saw. I had zero luck scoring/snapping the Lea Acero I put all over our
house.

Posted by gpsman on January 6, 2009, 1:21 am

On Jan 5, 3:00=A0pm, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:

> When tile starts to get out in the 10mm range, particularly in higher
> grades of tile, scoring and snapping will require a very good tool,
> not the el cheapo at the home store.

And still, there will be a certain minimum learning curve.

> Most pros will be using a wet
> saw.

"Pros" use nothing but a wet saw (and snips), notwithstanding those
many if not most who might be paid to install tile.

If scoring glazed tile doesn't chip the glaze, it risks it, and
unglazed edges can be hit or miss too, usually miss. Even a cheap
saw, per Red (or rented), is better than scoring, and a homeowner
probably shouldn't try any significant snipping... unless their tile
is cheap and/or they've got plenty extra.
-----

- gpsman

Posted by Davej on January 6, 2009, 2:14 am

On Jan 5, 2:00 pm, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:

> wrote:

> >Ceramic tile project -- and there are a few issues... years ago I did
> >some ceramic tile but the stuff then was thin and flat. Now I'm
> >feeling out of date. The tile I have now is 4/10 inch thick (maximum)
> >with a slight texture on the front surface and a grippy crosshatch
> >pattern on the back side. Scoring and breaking seems fairly
> >unreliable. What success rate should I be seeing? Also the serrated
> >trowels they sell now have big square notches. I'm doing a wall so
> >these square-notch trowels seem like a bad idea. Why the switch to
> >square notches? Any hints? Thanks.

> Square notch trowels are for thin set mortar, V notch are for mastic.
> What are you using?

I'm using the adhesive mastic from Lowes and installing it on ordinary
wallboard in a kitchen.

> When tile starts to get out in the 10mm range, particularly in higher
> grades of tile, scoring and snapping will require a very good tool,
> not the el cheapo at the home store. Most pros will be using a wet
> saw. I had zero luck scoring/snapping the Lea Acero I put all over our
> house.

I'm using a cheap wet saw for every cut when I originally thought I
would use the score and snap tool for most of the simple edge work.

Posted by on January 6, 2009, 11:39 am

wrote:

>> Square notch trowels are for thin set mortar, V notch are for mastic.
>> What are you using?

>I'm using the adhesive mastic from Lowes and installing it on ordinary
>wallboard in a kitchen.

You should ve able to get a V edge trowel at Lowes.

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